Narrow bilge pump ideas/recommendations?

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gregcope

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Hi All,

The bilge on my starlight 35 is very small/narrow.

It is 20cm long
10cm wide at the front, 8cm in the middle, and 5.5cm at the rear.

A Whale subersub 600 might fit. Not the auto version.
I may be able to remote fit a Whale Gulper 320 - its strainer would just fit (148x60)
Both would need a water witch or similar switch

I intent to wire into an auto/on/off panel, that is fused and wired to the batteries (ie avoid the isolator)

Poor picture below...

IMG_0088.jpg
 
I have an unused new supersub 600 non auto surplus to requirements - if interested PM me a suitable offer.

For occasional emptying a pela style oil extractor works very well.
 
NormanS said:
Did none of the 20 or so replies to your previous post on the subject help?
Click to expand...

That was for the strainer on the white, manual pipe in the right of the picture.

Sorry if that was not clear.

Here I am posting about fitting an auto pump as well.
 
Would it not be possible to pour some kind of setting compound down into that seemingly useless space to raise the floor level to the point where a normal bilge pump strum box could be used? I'm thinking of that foaming filler that boat-builders use or something similar. Once in place it could be glassed over.

Also, why do you need an automatic pump in a fibreglass boat? If there's a leak the answer surely is to fix it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The area is the rear part of the bilge and has the keelboats in it.

I appreciate the idea about leaks. My boat lives on a swinging mooring, and last year my log sensor hull fitting leaked ...

I would prefer the peace of mind.
 
I too have a starlight 35 but just a manual pump (no leaks!:encouragement:) But in your case, I would use the next bilge compartment forward which is far bigger and carefully make a hole for the pipe in the internal floor moulding do you can lead the pipe aft
 
West Coast said:
I too have a starlight 35 but just a manual pump (no leaks!:encouragement:)
Click to expand...

Ah a fellow S35 clan member. Mine was leak free, but in the last year has developed a few ... as fast as I fix them another appears that needs investigation/fixing ... grh.

West Coast said:
But in your case, I would use the next bilge compartment forward which is far bigger and carefully make a hole for the pipe in the internal floor moulding do you can lead the pipe aft
Click to expand...

Not thought of that... That forward one is a pain to get to.
 
If making the hole in the internal moulding through the foam, make sure you seal the foam somehow - I used a piece of GRP tube bonded in
 
This may be stupid but is there any real difference between filling the space with something to raise the level and just leaving the last foot of water unpumped. Does it cause problems elsewhere?
We once filled a void with sand, covered with a sheet of ply and GRP, so it could be removed if necessary. (Space round a stern tube where others might have used concrete or resin. Not good if you need to make a repair)
 
fisherman said:
This may be stupid but is there any real difference between filling the space with something to raise the level and just leaving the last foot of water unpumped.....
Click to expand...

If this is for an 'emergency' electric pump, probably not.
In normal use, there should be little to no water there.

In fact, it could be a good thing that the electric pump does not attempt to deal with the odd cupful of water. It means you would be aware of minor ingress and deal with it.
It also means the pump would be less prone to clogging from a season's worth of bilge detritus. Hence more likely to work when actually needed.

It's good to have a nice sump like that I would absolutely keep it.

If you want a Rule-type pump to draw some way down into the sump, you could fit a sort of nozzle around it, perhaps made from rigid plastic pipe, about the dia of the pump, heated and squeezed.
The water would need to get to pump level for the pump to start working, but it would keep working down to the bottom of the funnel.
 
lw395 said:
If this is for an 'emergency' electric pump, probably not.
In normal use, there should be little to no water there.

In fact, it could be a good thing that the electric pump does not attempt to deal with the odd cupful of water. It means you would be aware of minor ingress and deal with it.
It also means the pump would be less prone to clogging from a season's worth of bilge detritus. Hence more likely to work when actually needed.

It's good to have a nice sump like that I would absolutely keep it.

If you want a Rule-type pump to draw some way down into the sump, you could fit a sort of nozzle around it, perhaps made from rigid plastic pipe, about the dia of the pump, heated and squeezed.
The water would need to get to pump level for the pump to start working, but it would keep working down to the bottom of the funnel.
Click to expand...

I agree, I would prefer to see what is down there, even if I choose to ignore it, rather than lose the sump.

Also I want to be able to see my Keel bolts and the general state of the keelfoot.
 
Present (untested) solution is some custom made (316SS) 3mm hole SS tubes 25MM OD, 100MM long;

To be inserted inside bilge pipe, with the lower part exposed as a strainer;

IMG_0507.jpg
 
fisherman said:
This may be stupid but is there any real difference between filling the space with something to raise the level and just leaving the last foot of water unpumped. Does it cause problems elsewhere?
We once filled a void with sand, covered with a sheet of ply and GRP, so it could be removed if necessary. (Space round a stern tube where others might have used concrete or resin. Not good if you need to make a repair)
Click to expand...

:encouragement: I like the lateral thinking.
 
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