Name this electrical lug and wire size?

[ChromeDome]

As mentioned also by PaulRainbow, there is no need to insist on the toothed ring.

Any good quality terminal, properly fitted to the right wire, will be more than any requirements specified (if you could find them)

 

[john_morris_uk]

As mentioned also by PaulRainbow, there is no need to insist on the toothed ring.

Any good quality terminal, properly fitted to the right wire, will be more than any requirements specified (if you could find them)

Absolutely true but I think the OP said he wanted to restore/repair his old car in exactly the way it was originally built. And if that’s down to the style of terminal then chapeau to him perhaps.

Talking of old cars. Does anyone else remember when choke cables got hot on starting the engine as a sign the engine to chassis connection had failed?

 

[Forum Admin Team]

Several posts replies, etc., (and a user) removed for clarity.

 

[Tranona]

Absolutely true but I think the OP said he wanted to restore/repair his old car in exactly the way it was originally built. And if that’s down to the style of terminal then chapeau to him perhaps.

Talking of old cars. Does anyone else remember when choke cables got hot on starting the engine as a sign the engine to chassis connection had failed?

No, but I remember the choke knob being a good place to hang handbags. A good explanation for rough running when hot, particularly on Triumph Heralds

 

[Skylark]

Could you not splice the wire at the worn part and keep the original termination?

That is an option. I bought a second handle earth lead, from the well know auction site, but it’s from a slightly different variant car and is 6 inches too short.

I could use a 16mm2 straight ferrule and join the two, simply removing the chafe, a few inches above the gearbox end connection. That said, this solution adds an additional joint in the cable, potential for failure in the future?

 

[LittleSister]

No, but I remember the choke knob being a good place to hang handbags. A good explanation for rough running when hot, particularly on Triumph Heralds

I recall pegs being used behind the choke knob to hold it out until engine warm when the twist-grip thingy didn't work.

 

[Sandro]

I strongly agree with the wish of keeping original parts.

If I don't mistake it is a grounding wire. It very likely chafed against a grounded part (motor block, body, or else). If so, there is no electrical inconvenience in the risked unwanted contact. You could keep the worn/chafed original cable, just holding it away from touching, in order to avoid it being cut through with time.

Is it better an original worn cable or an integer but replaced one? Only owner's personal taste and judgement can answer.

 

[Skylark]

I strongly agree with the wish of keeping original parts.

If I don't mistake it is a grounding wire. It very likely chafed against a grounded part (motor block, body, or else). If so, there is no electrical inconvenience in the risked unwanted contact. You could keep the worn/chafed original cable, just holding it away from touching, in order to avoid it being cut through with time.

Is it better an original worn cable or an integer but replaced one? Only owner's personal taste and judgement can answer.

I could start a whole new thread on this but given that it’s a car and I’ve piggy-backed on to a sailing forum, best not.

“They are only original once” is the often spouted mantra, to which I subscribe.

The hydraulic crimper has arrived but the cable and numerous lugs haven’t so I’m going to join two, original cables (the whole one is too short) as mentioned by @RunAgroundHard

This should get the car back on the road for this weekends event. I can then decided whether or not to replace the joined original with a one piece replacement.

The car had an instantaneous power cut while driving at 40mph, slightly disconcerting. The brightly chafed earth wire was the only wire that I found that could have been the culprit (remains to be proven)

Appreciate your view @PaulRainbow ?