Mystery tank on Volvo Penta...

[Cardinal]

It would be worth while to check the state of the impeller (for the raw water system ) before running the engine but also look carefully for leaks from the “freshwater” cooling system as that tank should not be empty unless there is a leak.

 

[pvb]

Check with the manual regarding the procedure for filling. You nay have to fill/ top up the cooling system via a cap on the heat exchanger then put a little in the head tank .... PVB will provide details.

The filler is the cap on the header tank; there's no cap on the heat exchanger.

 

[Iliade]

The externally run coolant pipes are retained by hope and magic and do have a habit of leaking...

New 'O' rings may do the trick.

Discussed at length on various forums.

 

[pvb]

The externally run coolant pipes are retained by hope and magic and do have a habit of leaking...

New 'O' rings may do the trick.

Discussed at length on various forums.

The coolant pipes use rectangular-section sealing rings - these are different sizes for different places, so it's essential to look at the parts diagram and be certain that you buy the correct ones, otherwise, they'll leak.

 

[scottie]

It’s essential that you loosen pipes at both ends which may mean slacking housings and do not bend pipes removing them
If you bend the pipes then they leak!,,

 

[long_ben]

Okay... so... having finally made it back to the boat, finding the time to explore this, and rooting through the mountain of paperwork to find the manual.... I can report... that once I got back with a new bottle of Volvo green I discovered the level of the coolant was only just below the min line... turns out I probably last looked at this when it was a little dark in here and missed the obvious. I've run up the engine and bled the turbo (which showed no sign of any air in the system) and it all looks good. No leaks apparent anywhere... just a slightly bruised ego at my sense of panic at discovering an empty tank. That said... I've learnt a lot in the process (in no small part thanks to the expertise of members here) and feel much more comfortable with the whole marine diesel situation after the extensive reading and researching I embarked on in an attempt to preempt what the issue could be. It does, however, look like a couple of the o rings on the raw water system have passed their best. Nothing extreme but signs of salt and corrosion from some saltwater escaping. Fortunately the point where the leak seems to be emanating from is fairly accessible.

Further question... I had a look online at at replacing some of the pipes which run around the end of the engine nearest the turbo. They seem outrageously expensive. For what they cost from a parts supplier, I have a feeling I could get an engineer to fabricate new ones for a good deal less. Have I missed out on something with regard to the best place to get Penta spares? Or is it just that the age of the engine means only a limited supply of spares are now available? By the time I'd put together a shopping list for the bits I want, it was almost as cheap to buy a reconditioned 2003T. Can't be right... can it?

 

[pvb]

Further question... I had a look online at at replacing some of the pipes which run around the end of the engine nearest the turbo. They seem outrageously expensive. For what they cost from a parts supplier, I have a feeling I could get an engineer to fabricate new ones for a good deal less. Have I missed out on something with regard to the best place to get Penta spares? Or is it just that the age of the engine means only a limited supply of spares are now available? By the time I'd put together a shopping list for the bits I want, it was almost as cheap to buy a reconditioned 2003T. Can't be right... can it?

Which pipes? And why do you want to replace them? If they're coolant pipes they need to be very carefully fabricated or they simply won't seal. Bear in mind that the 2003T was introduced in the 1980s, and spares aren't going to be around for ever. Pricing reflects the fact that someone's kept them available for so long.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

I know the feeling


50% , preferably diluted with distilled or deionised water, if you have the concentrate otherwise "ready diluted "
ITYWF that engine should use the conventional, low silicate, type of antifreeze such as the Volvo "green" rather that the modern , long life/ advanced ,OAT type ( Volvo "yellow") But don't mix the two types

Check with the manual regarding the procedure for filling. You nay have to fill/ top up the cooling system via a cap on the heat exchanger then put a little in the head tank .... PVB will provide details.

Yes, ascertain which anti-freeze is required, there are many threads on here about this. A simple explanation of indirect cooling is that , instead of the coolant going through a radiator to dump heat, it goes through a matrix of tubes surrounded by water instead. The cooling water is pumped into the exhaust pipe, cooling this in passing.
As you imply that you are a complete novice, I would recommend that you consult the RYA website with a view to taking some training courses, to start you off on the right foot and forestall expensive, or even life-threatening mistakes; a Diesel Engine Course, a Theory Course and then some practical, on-the-water courses, preferably starting off with keelboat courses to get you used to just sailing and manoeuveringin smaller boats where coming alongside, for instance, can be practiced repeatedly, rather than once at the end of a trip, and then a Day Skipper course on a bigger boat. The Diesel course will set you up with all the routine tasks to do with engines and will give you the confidence to investigate your own engine. Some knowledge is required in order to fix sometimes dangerous engine breakdowns at sea
Get the manual for your engine, try to get one for your boat, join the owners' club for your particular boat, poke around and find out how everything works, all this will stand you in good stead. Good Luck!

 

[croc9968]

Older engines were often directly cooled although conversion to indirect cooling, via a heat exchanger, was possible for many
Recent engines are mostly, if not all, indirectly cooled

Volvo Penta 2001, 2002 etc engines were basically raw water cooled but available also as indirectly cooled

You can download an owners manual from Manuals & handbooks | Volvo Penta.
Its always useful to have a copy downloaded in addition to the paper one on the boat
Just enter the model type in the "product designation" box. 2003T if that is what it is

Without wanting to hijack this thread but as a novice and about attempt my first engine service I noticed that my 1983 Volvo MD11C has this header tank fitted. The manual makes no mention of this so I'm assuming it has been back fitted? I do remember that the levels were okay but I'm thinking that perhaps it may need the coolant replacing (I don't think it's been done for over 12 months)....if the coolant levels are fine, am I best diverting my attention to the other bits of the service? If not, would someone be kind enough to direct me to a generic service guide?

 

[VicS]

Without wanting to hijack this thread but as a novice and about attempt my first engine service I noticed that my 1983 Volvo MD11C has this header tank fitted. The manual makes no mention of this so I'm assuming it has been back fitted? I do remember that the levels were okay but I'm thinking that perhaps it may need the coolant replacing (I don't think it's been done for over 12 months)....if the coolant levels are fine, am I best diverting my attention to the other bits of the service? If not, would someone be kind enough to direct me to a generic service guide?

If your MD11C has this head tank then it is fair to assume it has an indirect cooling system. This means the engine is cooled by a closed system filled with an antifreeze solution , like a car except that this is cooled by a heat exchanger, rather than a radiator, through which the raw water is pumped. That means, of course, that there is a belt driven coolant pump in addition to the raw water pump at the rear of the engine.
The parts of the VP indirect cooling system can be seen in the parts list. See the Miscellaneous section here Volvo Penta MD11, MD11C, MD11D, MD17, MD17C, MD17D - MarinePartsEurope.com
The coolant should be 50% solution of a conventional low silicate antifreeze , not an advanced, long life , OAT antifreeze as used in modern engines. You should change it every year, just like we used to with older cars.

The basic servicing, although not the indirect cooling system is covered in the owners manual/ Instruction book which you can download from VP's website Manuals & handbooks | Volvo Penta (Just enter MD11C in the product designation box) If you can service a small diesel car engine you should be able to service the MD11C with one one hand tied behind your back.

I do not know of a free online source for the workshop manual.