My ST60 speed has stopped working

sailygirl

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I have cleaned the transducer/cleared the paddlewheel. Still reading 0.00. Any ideas how to fix this one? Many thanks.
 

jlavery

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Have you tried spinning the paddlewheel by hand to see if it registers a speed reading?

If no reading when doing this, look at commections and also check that the magnet in the paddlewheel is still there. Most designs have a magnet and a reed switch to record pulses as the paddlewheel rotates.
 

sailygirl

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Have you tried spinning the paddlewheel by hand to see if it registers a speed reading?

If no reading when doing this, look at commections and also check that the magnet in the paddlewheel is still there. Most designs have a magnet and a reed switch to record pulses as the paddlewheel rotates.
OK thanks J. no speed when spinning. Is the magnet easy to access??
 

greeny

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If it reads ok when spun by hand, then the problem could be fouling on the hull around the impeller. It doesn't take much to disturb the flow of water over the impeller on my boat. Happens to mine all the time. No amount of removal and cleaning gets it working but a quick swim with a brush cleans the surrounding hull area in a coupe of minutes. I can sometimes clean it sufficiently from a pontoon or dinghy with a deck brush if the water's cold.
 

jlavery

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OK thanks J. no speed when spinning. Is the magnet easy to access??
Depending on the design, it's either visible as a little bump on one of the 'spokes' of the paddlewheel, or is embedded inside one of the wheels (although if the latter, I doubt it's the problem - it won't fall off). If it's external, on the outside of one of the spokes, it can corrode and fall off.

If it's embedded, or still visible on the paddlewheel, then things probably get more expensive. Failure is either in the reed switch which is in the main housing, or in the connection between the housing and the display.

What make is it? I fear that if the reed switch or connection is dodgy, you're looking at needing a replacement unit. But other can/will probably have better or more informed views than me!

James
 

sailygirl

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If it reads ok when spun by hand, then the problem could be fouling on the hull around the impeller. It doesn't take much to disturb the flow of water over the impeller on my boat. Happens to mine all the time. No amount of removal and cleaning gets it working but a quick swim with a brush cleans the surrounding hull area in a coupe of minutes. I can sometimes clean it sufficiently from a pontoon or dinghy with a deck brush if the water's cold.
Thanks Greeny.. unfortunately its not reading when I remove from the in hull fitting and spin.
 

sailygirl

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Depending on the design, it's either visible as a little bump on one of the 'spokes' of the paddlewheel, or is embedded inside one of the wheels (although if the latter, I doubt it's the problem - it won't fall off). If it's external, on the outside of one of the spokes, it can corrode and fall off.

If it's embedded, or still visible on the paddlewheel, then things probably get more expensive. Failure is either in the reed switch which is in the main housing, or in the connection between the housing and the display.

What make is it? I fear that if the reed switch or connection is dodgy, you're looking at needing a replacement unit. But other can/will probably have better or more informed views than me!

James
Hi james, Thanks for the magnet info. I never realised there was such a thing. ?

it is a Raymarine - ST60 depth and speed. The depth is reading fine on the display. Just a big fat 0 on the speed.
 

lustyd

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The sensor will be an Airmar, rebadged by Raymarine. Go to Cross Reference Guide | AIRMAR to see which yours might be and then check it looks the same as the one you have. While your model is very likely discontinued, you may find a newer one which fits the same through hull. This might require a converter to work with your display. Might be worth trying to find a second display to test with too just in case it's that end. Less likely, but worth a check. Where are you based?
 

Yngmar

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First check the connectors on the back of the display (where the transducer connects). They're prone to corrode and lose contact.
 

earlybird

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[QUOTE="sailygirl, post: 8032775, member: 46089"
it is a Raymarine - ST60 depth and speed. The depth is reading fine on the display. Just a big fat 0 on the speed.
[/QUOTE]
If it's the magnet, spare paddlewheels are available and easily fitted.
The Tri-Data instrument can operate as either master or repeater, set on the intermediate calibration page. Worth checking that it hasn't flipped, although the correct working of the depth suggests it hasn't. If the transducer thermistor fails then the instrument will only operate in repeater mode. Is the temperature reading sensible?
 

sailygirl

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The sensor will be an Airmar, rebadged by Raymarine. Go to Cross Reference Guide | AIRMAR to see which yours might be and then check it looks the same as the one you have. While your model is very likely discontinued, you may find a newer one which fits the same through hull. This might require a converter to work with your display. Might be worth trying to find a second display to test with too just in case it's that end. Less likely, but worth a check. Where are you based?
Thanks! Very useful! I am in Plymouth.
 

sailygirl

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[QUOTE="sailygirl, post: 8032775, member: 46089"
it is a Raymarine - ST60 depth and speed. The depth is reading fine on the display. Just a big fat 0 on the speed.
If it's the magnet, spare paddlewheels are available and easily fitted.
The Tri-Data instrument can operate as either master or repeater, set on the intermediate calibration page. Worth checking that it hasn't flipped, although the correct working of the depth suggests it hasn't. If the transducer thermistor fails then the instrument will only operate in repeater mode. Is the temperature reading sensible?
[/QUOTE]
Ok thx. Learning loads here! All appreciated.. Not sure about the temperature. Not something I look at.
 

greeny

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There's information on the forum somewhere for installing a resistor to the temperature terminals to make it read a fixed but sensible value. Can't remember the value of the resistor required though. I'm sure someone will be along soon with a better memory than mine.
 
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