My first lift out or where did the anti-foul go?

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Seahope

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[QUOTE=Seahope:
"I think I will go for a mid-season lift & wash off this year."

For the first time I succumbed to a cheap offer for a mid-season lift and scrub. Normally a single coat lasts all season but when lifted out in December there was far more fouling than ever before!

Perhaps an authority will come along and explain . .
 
Tom Price said:
Seahope: "I think I will go for a mid-season lift & wash off this year." For the first time I succumbed to a cheap offer for a mid-season lift and scrub. Normally a single coat lasts all season but when lifted out in December there was far more fouling than ever before! Perhaps an authority will come along and explain . .[/QUOTE said:
not an aurthority but I imagine mid season scrub not only removes barnacles but a layer of antifoul as well - so short time gain only.
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fouling

I am by no means an authority on the subject but heres what i have personally witnessed. over the years i've cruised many areas in both fresh and salt and have used various makes of antifoul according to price and convenience, i can honestley say that the price bears no relevance in keeping the fouling at bay........HOWEVER higher quality antifouls do come into play when it comes to EOS wash off. the better ones still accumulate fouling but when hit with the yard washer, the **** just falls off where the cheapies tend not to let go so readily. these days i go for a middle of the road A/F which works just fine. i've been on Blakes cruiser performer which is D/P fresh and salt and works just fine for me. i do take advantage of mid season lift and scrub. After the wash i knock up a 50/50 mix of old dregs and white spirit and work down from W/L until i run out. after winter lift out i give her a healthy one coat of fresh undiluted A/f again. works a treat!
 
Wire brush

I would advise against using a wire brush on aluminium drives. Its not good practice.

The ends of the wires when in contact with the ally will inbed and then over time corrode.

Even if the paint looks good dont do it. You can get a nylon type brush use that instead.

Have 2 drives in now that have disintegrated due to the owner using a wire wheel on an electric power tool cleaning his drive last year. Told him not to do it and why but he said yeah yeah!

Now hes crying big bill coming his way
 
gingie said:
I would advise against using a wire brush on aluminium drives. Its not good practice.

The ends of the wires when in contact with the ally will inbed and then over time corrode.

Even if the paint looks good dont do it. You can get a nylon type brush use that instead.

Have 2 drives in now that have disintegrated due to the owner using a wire wheel on an electric power tool cleaning his drive last year. Told him not to do it and why but he said yeah yeah!

Now hes crying big bill coming his way
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Ah, a bit late as I did use one today, although as it seemed to scratch the paint surface a little, so I tended to use the scraper on the end far more.

After the drives are serviced I was planning to paint them and the trim tabs with International Trilux 33 to keep the barnacles off this year.

For the hull I have bought some International Cruiser Uno, which I'll paint on myself as I don't think the hull needs any preparation as there is obviously something on already which seems pretty secure if useless at keeping off the barnacles.
 
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Blimey, that's a frightening view indeed.
What was the fault of those poor outdrives, to punish them like that? :)
Alse the anodes are completely gone.
Did it took just one season, or what?
 
MapisM said:
Blimey, that's a frightening view indeed.
What was the fault of those poor outdrives, to punish them like that? :)
Alse the anodes are completely gone.
Did it took just one season, or what?
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In theory they were serviced last year by the previous owner, but I expect the annodes were not changed. All the white bits are the remains of barnacles rather than galvanic corrosion so the annodes did their job :)

The pictures below show how little annode is left.

I did polish the gel coat a little now I could reach the side opposite my usual berth position :D
 
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Seahope said:
All the white bits are the remains of barnacles rather than galvanic corrosion so the annodes did their job
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Sorry to rain on your parade, the boat looks very nice btw, but I think you're underestimating the outdrives conditions.

Firstly, yes, I know that the white bits have nothing to see with galvanic corrosion, but I'm afraid that the small beasts had way too much time to settle, and eated also the metal surface, not just the black paint.
It'll be very hard now, even with a good repainting, to make them cosmetically as nice as they should be. The good news is that here we're only talking of cosmetics, anyway.

But the anodes, well, they surely fought their share of battles, but in those conditions they actually surrended some time ago.
You'll see after removing them that also their internal structure is spongy and very fragile. And when they are that much weared, they're not effective anymore, and galvanic corrosion can spread elsewhere. It's impossible to know, just looking at the pics, how long ago they lost their effectiveness, and if any other part was involved after that.
But you're in good hands with VP, he'll surely be able to check all that.
 
I should be (weather permitting) having my first lift-out next week. Hull looks a bit mucky, but not as bad as some of my neighbours'.

Does anyone have any experience with the Sonihull ultrasonic antifoul system? I have seen it advertised, but is it just too good to be true, or are there any undesirable side effects of the u/s?
 
Divemaster1 said:
Not sure which speeds you cruise at, but this is listed as suitable for vessels up to 25 knots....
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Yes, I know, but my limited understanding of anti-foul types is that the harder ones do not self-abrade (if that is the correct term), so need the boat to be used frequently to remain effective.

Like most MOBO owners I have to work to pay for my toy so it is only used relatively infrequently. Therefore, I have chosen an anti-foul which isn’t designed to cope with my higher cruising speeds but will self-abrade whilst the boat is resting.

Assuming that the ant-foul is designed to be used for long periods of 25 knot cruising then I’m hoping that for the relatively short time I am actually going beyond 25 knots the anti-foul won’t all suddenly wash off. My usage this year is likely to be very front-loaded so I will take a look mid June as to how it is holding up and whether I need another short lift and reapplication.

The consensus on this Forum seems to be that no anti-fouls really work that well anyway for any length of time :rolleyes:

I'm hoping that VP does not give me really bad news about my out drives this week.
 
In my experience Cruiser Uno will be fine at 30 knots or more if you paint on two decent coats and should be fine if left unused for a while. It only loses its effect if left for so long that the active biocides leach out of the 'dead' surface layer without it being scrubbed off by the boat's motion through the water.

In extended still conditions you really need a true self-polishing (rather than abrading) antifouling such as International Micron 77 or Seajet Platinum, which react with the water and effectively disolve very slowly to ensure the active paint surface is continually refreshed. This also means you can paint on as many coats as you like to extend the gaps between lifts without the paint losing its efficacy.

I have used Micron 66 and 77 for the past three years to very good effect (as have a number of other forumites) on a 40knot boat and will be trying Seajet Platinum this year.

Hugo
 
Hugo_Andreae said:
In my experience Cruiser Uno will be fine at 30 knots or more if you paint on two decent coats and should be fine if left unused for a while. It only loses its effect if left for so long that the active biocides leach out of the 'dead' surface layer without it being scrubbed off by the boat's motion through the water.

In extended still conditions you really need a true self-polishing (rather than abrading) antifouling such as International Micron 77 or Seajet Platinum, which react with the water and effectively disolve very slowly to ensure the active paint surface is continually refreshed. This also means you can paint on as many coats as you like to extend the gaps between lifts without the paint losing its efficacy.

I have used Micron 66 and 77 for the past three years to very good effect (as have a number of other forumites) on a 40knot boat and will be trying Seajet Platinum this year.

Hugo
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Hugo,

Thank you for some very useful information :)

Regards

Steve
 
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