My first double braid splice: fell at the first hurdle.

I've been practicing splicing as one of my lockdown pastimes, never really done it before.
Strangely perhaps I found it easier to do various different splices in dyneema - with cover / without cover / braided etc as opposed to the somewhat untidy looking 3 strand splices I've produced
I have bought the various fids, scissors and splicing needles which made it easier (relatively)
 
Most Dyneema rope is designed to be spliced.
Some braid on braid rope isn't.

I managed an acceptable splice in some Marlowbraid by following the maker's instructions.
A length of quite similar looking stuff of unknown brand just didn't want to play.

Generally if I need a spliced eye in something other than 3 strand, I use dyneema and strip the cover off.
Makes it easy, quick and you can see that it's right.

People who do it every day will make a far better job of Marlowbraid etc, and when you're paying proper money for a new halyard, why spoil it with one of my splices?
 
Lightwave395 said:
I've been practicing splicing as one of my lockdown pastimes, never really done it before.
Strangely perhaps I found it easier to do various different splices in dyneema - with cover / without cover / braided etc as opposed to the somewhat untidy looking 3 strand splices I've produced
I have bought the various fids, scissors and splicing needles which made it easier (relatively)
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Same here, but not so far along the learning curve, (and I was good at the three strand stuff...) Have got as far as the joyous discovery that bare 12 strand Dyneema is really easy, and starting to attempt the harder stuff.
 
TernVI said:
Most Dyneema rope is designed to be spliced.
Some braid on braid rope isn't.

I managed an acceptable splice in some Marlowbraid by following the maker's instructions.
A length of quite similar looking stuff of unknown brand just didn't want to play.

Generally if I need a spliced eye in something other than 3 strand, I use dyneema and strip the cover off.
Makes it easy, quick and you can see that it's right.

People who do it every day will make a far better job of Marlowbraid etc, and when you're paying proper money for a new halyard, why spoil it with one of my splices?
Click to expand...

That is the issue. most rope manufacturers publish whether or not their double braid ropes are easy to splice or not. Some are just impossible. I had a Kaya ropes catalogue on board, and each rope type in had its spliceing ability detailed. Marlow braid on braid is one I have spliced fairly easily, as were my 16mm English braids sheets, but 12mm Liros was so tightly woven that it was impossible to complete the splice.

Actual Marlowbraid (not just Marlow Braid on Braid) can be spliced, but its a different animal entirely, with a braid cover over a three strand core. Video here showing the method of splicing it; splicing marlowbraid - Google Search

Why splice a halyard? A halyard knot is better because it does not have the thick tail that can get damaged or jammed in the masthead sheaves.
 
There are well rehearsed arguments for halyard knots and for splices... a quick trip round the houses...

A knot halves the strength of the rope (roughly) and a splice keeps more of the strength in the rope, but halyards are sized for stretch, not for strength, so loss of strength should not be an issue, but dyneema does not like very sharp bends, and will gradually lose strength in a knot...

A splice has a tail which can chafe in the sheave and might even jam in it depending on how close to the mast the head of the sail is.

If you are using tackles you certainly want to eye splice the rope to the becket of the block because otherwise it will get in the way of the purchase.

I come down in favour of the halyard knot, made with a thimble, and cut off every couple of years.

I certainly prefer the halyard bend to the bowline for this, because it’s most unlikely to jam in a sheave and because I will cut it off anyway my inability to undo it is irrelevant.

Knots in sheets are an abomination; splices and seizings only. None the less I am guilty of knots in sheets.

YMMV..
 
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Kukri said:
I am stumbling around in the foothills. After a lifetime of wooden gaff cutters I can knock out a Matthew Walker on a deadeye lanyard without a second thought, but this stuff is a whole new learning curve!

First attempt - followed that video and the Polman book, in el cheapo Liros polypropylene core 10mm. Brilliant success! Alas... beginners’ luck - have just had a complete failure with Liros more expensive Herkules 14mm polyester core. Cover into core - not too bad. Core into cover - fiasco! There simply isn’t room to get a Selma fid in, and a DSplicer pulling needle is too short.

Where am I going wrong?
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I don't think you're doing anything wrong, I have really struggled with some Liros ropes to the point where I gave up and bought a different brand!
 
Norman_E said:
For sheets, eye splices and a soft shackle are the way to go.
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I think that if the doubled sheet is the ideal size for the clew cringle the old trick of seizing a loop into the mid point of the sheets, passing that through the clew and using a soft shackle type stopper knot on a short end seized in does even better in terms of not hanging up on anything. With single sheets, yes, separate eyes and a soft shackle.

For the more advanced, make the soft shackle on each sheet.
 
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Kukri said:
I think that if the doubled sheet is the ideal size for the clew cringle the old trick of seizing a loop into the mid point of the sheets, passing that through the clew and using a soft shackle type stopper knot on a short end seized in does even better in terms of not hanging up on anything.
Click to expand...
I have used a butterfly knot in the middle of my genoa sheet because the tails exit in opposing directions which stops it hanging on anything.
I use a soft shackle to attach the sheet to the clew cringle
 
I managed a tidy eye splice on polyester double braid at the 2nd attempt, but failed several times on Liros Racer 8mm dyneema d/b. Despite following the Liros instructions I couldn’t milk the cover back in place and have the blisters to show for my efforts!
 
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Do check if your double braids have a removable slicing layer/jacket. If should be reasonably obvious if they do.

Also. Remember to use your local lamppost to help milk the cover back over.
 
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