Muriatic acid, coral, polish etc

Rum_Pirate

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I spent this morning (6 hours) applying muriatic acid to the 'coral' deposits from the waves on my Mako Centre Console boat.
Dangerous stuff, but the calcium deposits came off easily.
Rinsed it off and then applied polish.
Also cleaned the topsides of the booby and seagull deposits.
Touched up the waterline and a bit below with a coat of black Seahawk anti-fouling.

Looks reasonably good now. :cool:

Ready for launching . . . after I have recharged the batteries.
The 'electrician' that fixed the trimswitch managed to run them flat.:disgust:

Will get some pics.
 
I asked my wife what she used to shift calcium deposits. Her answer was 'loo cleaner'. I checked the bottle of Harpic standing next to our toilet and it has 6.75g of Hydrochloric acid per 100g. I tried it out on some stainless steel that was heavily encrusted and it worked a treat. I made sure I washed it off well afterwards, though. You do need gloves and eye protection when using it.
 
BEFORE

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AFTER

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The 'orange' bit near the bow is to do with the sun, sorry I wish I had taken better pictures.

Rather than doing all that work I'd rather have been out on the sea today.


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aka Spirits of Salt.
Also excellent at shifting calcium deposits from props, heat exchanger tube stacks, etc. It doesn't harm copper alloys, although it shouldn't be let anywhere near aluminium.

That's what the text books say but it would seem that the reaction with aluminium may take some time to commence. This photo shows a masthead antenna in an aluminium bracket, with severe calcium deposits between the two. Absolutely immovable. I put a few drops of dilute hydrochloric, about 20% I think, on the deposit. It fizzed away quite happily until the deposit was gone but I can see no damage at all to the aluminium, nor to the stainless fitting of course.
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