Moving deck hardware - what do I need to know?

[MissFitz]

Apologies, yet another total numpty question........ I'm going to get my Sonata out of the water shortly to get her fitted up for next season. One of my priorities is to change the set-up to make her easier to sail short-handed. This will involve taking out two side-mount single clutches & replacing them with ordinary triple clutches mounted further aft on the coachroof. I'll also need to put in a couple of cam cleats for the kicker & remove the current block mounted just aft of the mast.

I've never tried anything like this before, or anything at all with fibreglass for that matter. I know there are tonnes of videos on YouTube but before I wade through them it would be really helpful to have an idea of the top dos & don'ts for beginners.

I should perhaps add that Sonatas were originally set up with all lines coming back to the cockpit so the clutches have already been moved at least once (& possibly the winches also). Will this make a difference as to where I can site new clutches?

All help as always very much appreciated.

 

[BelleSerene]

You need an area of side deck or coach roof that's reasonably well reinforced for mounting deck hardware. I don't pretend to know where those are on the Hunter Sonata. Often though there are sections with a removable panel in the deck head on the under side, for mounting winches or clutches. Definitely look for these first.

Much beyond that and you're into guesstimating forces and material strength or asking a yacht designer. Or how about getting a local fibreglass company to reinforce a section of coachroof on the underside to give you the strength to hold the forces of your led-back lines?

 

[Seajet]

If you put a pad of ideally hardwood but treated exterior ( all ply is meant to be exterior grade these days ) or marine ply is ok, with a stainless plate or at least penny washers below that and above the bolts, you'll be fine.

If the deck is balsa core try to glass in stainless tubes to take the bolts, not difficult once you decide on positions.

The West Epoxy kits are an expensive way to do it, but very good stuff and much more user friendly for someone new to grp work.

If you or a chum are experienced in racing dinghies that would be a great help in siting the kit.

Things to bear in mind include the radius described by winch handles, even pro designed boats have been known to have the handles foul the dodgers or hatch garage !

Try to make any turning blocks, mast sheaves, reefing line blocks, deck organisers ball bearing, expensive but you only fit them once and it makes a huge difference.

With things like deck organisers, and deck fittings in general, allow for expansion; my A22 has deck organisers with 4 sheaves each side of the mast and cleats, clutches etc to suit, but I could really do with at least one more each side.

Lewmar make organisers which flex to suit cambered decks which may be handy; my organisers are ball bearing but I haven't seen any available lately.

 

[snooks]

It all depends on if your deck is cored or not.

You'll know as soon as you drill the holes...into tough glass, quickly through foam or balsa, more tough glass.

If you have a core you'll need to support it. The easiest way is to drill the holes for the bolts, take an allen key that will fit in the holes - put the long end in the drill, the small end in the hole, wiggle it around until there is room for it to move (easier with foam cores)...switch on the drill, and you've now made a nice circular cavity to fill. Blow out all the dust and tape the underside of the hole, then fill with a mixture of epoxy and filler from West Systems - one that is suitable for compression (forget which one that is now) fill the holes to overflowing. Drill again while the epoxy is a little past green i.e.not rock hard.

If it's solid GRP you're in luck, a ply wood backing plate and the biggest penny washers that will fit. :0)

 

[Topcat47]

You won't get away with penny washers for your winches, even the current ones will be too big. I'd be loathe to go for anything less than a hardwood pad for these. As for deck organisers, it's a false economy to buy anything other than low friction items and the bigger the diameter the better. The more and tighter the angles you have to "bend" the ropes round, the more load you'll need to do whatever the line needs to accomplish.

 

[Seajet]

Penny washers can have flats filed on them in a vice- or workmate alongside the boat - if they overlap, but a single stainless or thickish 2mm+ alloy backing pad on top of a hardwood pad then the lot treated with good long lasting paint ( ideally not over the nuts ) is best, as I suggested.

As the OP seems to be custom fitting the deck gear, a good stroll around race oriented dinghy clubs and smallish racing cruisers ashore with a camera and notepad would pay dividends.