Mousing an Anchor Shackle/ Connector

Sandgrounder

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One item picked up in the survey when I made my recent purchase was that the anchor shackle was not moused. This is a connector which will pass through the bow roller and is fastened with allen screws not a conventional D ring and pin. How can I mouse such a shackle?
 
I use a cable tie. You can see if its in place, its cheap and easy to remove and replace

He'd do well to get one those though a countersunk Allen head ;)

We've used similar shackles for years without problems, secured with Loctite, as Paul suggests. (One grade up from regular nut-lock.) Whatever a surveyor might write in his more anal moments, I'm not sure how mousing wire would fare being carted along the bottom on a regular basis, anyway.
 
I tested Loctite a few years ago after it was suggested that seawater softened it. The results are on the website but to summarise I torqued and untorqued countersunk bolts with Loctite in air and immersed and found no difference. I have been using Loctite 242 for years now and all bolts on swivels and shackles are fully locked after a season's use.
 
I lost an anchor and chain last trip because an Allen key shackle had come undone. First time in 22 years but an expensive first time. I have been thinking how to mouse it and I have a theory - I'll try it out when I am back in the marina this weekend and if successful I'll post it. Here's hoping, because I can't afford a repeat experience.
 
Another vote for Loctite, if you are generous and use too much (for extra security) you might find it so strong - you need a blow torch to release (you can guess how I know). Its anaerobic, can be applied to a wet shackle and will set off with strength underwater. Like Vyv I tried it.
 
I lost an anchor and chain last trip because an Allen key shackle had come undone. First time in 22 years but an expensive first time. I have been thinking how to mouse it and I have a theory - I'll try it out when I am back in the marina this weekend and if successful I'll post it. Here's hoping, because I can't afford a repeat experience.

I can see how you might lose an anchor, but how did you manage to lose the chain?
 
That's often easier than wrestling with it. It doesn't need mountains of heat: 250ºC is plenty, and even less softens it considerably.

Yes, I was perhaps alarmist with my terminology. I use a little thing like a cigarette lighter (hardly a blow torch) and I sometimes purloin the device used for creme brûlée (also hardly a blow torch). In my defence - Not sure what one might call them.

Apologies
 
I sometimes purloin the device used for creme brûlée (also hardly a blow torch). In my defence - Not sure what one might call them.

A creme brûler, obviously ;)

You see them advertised with various appellations so I'm not sure they have a universal name. Chef's blowtorch is one. (I know this because I bought the better half one a year or so ago. She magnanimously tolerates its use for, er, other purposes.)

P.S. No apologies necessary, except perhaps by me. I'd hoped it was clear that I was adding, not correcting.
 
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I can see how you might lose an anchor, but how did you manage to lose the chain?
I anchor in deep water with 8 meters of chain and the rest 14mm polyester. The chain is attached to the rode with a soft eye and Allen key shackle so the retrieve is smooth (I use the Alderney Ring method). It was the connection between chain and rode that failed, hence losing the anchor and chain length but not the rode.
 
The chain is attached to the rode with a soft eye and Allen key shackle...It was the connection between chain and rode that failed

May I ask what type of shackle? We make a point of using only ones of known provenance with load ratings (Wichard, usually, although there are others). Wouldn't touch un-rated, unbranded ones for this purpose. There are plenty about.
 
I anchor in deep water with 8 meters of chain and the rest 14mm polyester. The chain is attached to the rode with a soft eye and Allen key shackle so the retrieve is smooth (I use the Alderney Ring method). It was the connection between chain and rode that failed, hence losing the anchor and chain length but not the rode.

A tapered chain splice would do your job well. It will be smooth through the ring (ooh er missus) and no risk of shackles undoing or failing.
 
I tested Loctite a few years ago after it was suggested that seawater softened it. The results are on the website but to summarise I torqued and untorqued countersunk bolts with Loctite in air and immersed and found no difference. I have been using Loctite 242 for years now and all bolts on swivels and shackles are fully locked after a season's use.

I have just bought a new tube of Loctite 243 - would that be as good, please?
 
If I could drift this thread a wee bit...
Would loctite work on mooring shackles? Ideally I would weld them but this isn't possible. Might epoxy be a more cost effective alternative at this sort of size... or something like CT1?
 
If I could drift this thread a wee bit...
Would loctite work on mooring shackles? Ideally I would weld them but this isn't possible. Might epoxy be a more cost effective alternative at this sort of size... or something like CT1?

Not certain as thread is often quite coarse so I assume surface area is less. Perhaps someone has tested it?

I was fitting new chain recently and hacksawed off the old connector prior to delivery. I thought it would be easier if I knew the new Kong swivel could be removed quickly when the chain eventually arrived. I used high strength thread lock from Toolstation (I don't think they stock it now) to lock the Allen headed set screw. Needed tapping lightly with a hammer on the Allen key and extra leverage to remove it 3 weeks later and almost resorted to heat. It was pretty stiff to undo on almost every turn, even when it should have been loose without thread lock. Bow shackle was simple once the monel mousing was removed.

It is back in place now with the same type of thread lock and bow shackle has 3-4 turns of monel and no thread lock.
 
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