Most stable tenders/dinghies

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I've just bought a senior but sound Avon Redcrest and was considering experimenting with making a solid/slatted floor. Anyone know which back copy of the PBO? I was concerned about the wood causing wear points under the tubes (obviously I would try and sand off any edges). Any tips?
Thanks. Dave.
Sorry if a bit off topic, but also on the inside at the bow is a single rubber "socket mount" similar to the 4 that hold the outboard bracket to the inflatable transom........what's it for??
 
FairweatherDave said:
also on the inside at the bow is a single rubber "socket mount" similar to the 4 that hold the outboard bracket to the inflatable transom........what's it for??
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As Gavin has said it is part of the forward spraydeck. This is a simply a triangular piece of material that fits over the black nipples on the outside of the hull. A piece of poly tube is pushed into the socket and as it tries to stand vertically it pushes up the deck. Easy to make but not very effective.
I too have been thinking of a floor for the Redshank. An inflatable one would be ideal. It would not have to fit perfectly to be effective.? I look forward to any ideas..
 
Thanks for your comments and interesting that the consensus remains with the inflatable. I suppose the thing I dislike about them is that whilst they may have high initial stability if they loose it then it goes rapidly, whereas a conventional rowing boat style solid dinghy would be more predictable as it rocked.

The other thing I dislike is their lightness - though useful to transport on dry land I'd prefer something with a bit more weight to it.

I will keep my inflatable but the idea of a pram dinghy for the shore to boat commute still appeals. I'll keep a look out for an old cheap one that I can try.
 
Can I add an opposing view ? I acquired an old wooden Mirror (sail # in the 7000's), sold the rig at a profit, and used it for years as a tender for my Orwell mooring. Very stable, light, easy to row and easy to tow. When the daggerboard case started a leak, I removed it.
Then some toerag tried to steal it and, is so doing I assume, realised it was no longer a 'sailing' Mirror and proceeded to damage it beyond repair.
I now have a typical grp dinghy which is heavier, not so stable, but just as easy to row and tow and, importantly for me, needs minimal maintenance.
 
FairweatherDave said:
I've just bought a senior but sound Avon Redcrest and was considering experimenting with making a solid/slatted floor. Anyone know which back copy of the PBO? I was concerned about the wood causing wear points under the tubes (obviously I would try and sand off any edges). Any tips?
Click to expand...

My slightly smaller Redstart has a solid ply floor and has been that way for atleast 10 years i'd guess without a hint of wear to the tubes/floor.
 
nortonmotors said:
Can I add an opposing view ? I acquired an old wooden Mirror (sail # in the 7000's), sold the rig at a profit, and used it for years as a tender for my Orwell mooring. Very stable, light, easy to row and easy to tow. When the daggerboard case started a leak, I removed it.
Then some toerag tried to steal it and, is so doing I assume, realised it was no longer a 'sailing' Mirror and proceeded to damage it beyond repair.
I now have a typical grp dinghy which is heavier, not so stable, but just as easy to row and tow and, importantly for me, needs minimal maintenance.
Click to expand...

I would second an old Mirror. A friend used one and found it towed well,was dry, stable and there are plenty around.

I use an aluminium RIB, its 10' long, does not damage my paintwork, and goes like stink with an outboard. It weighs only 31kgs and has a deep v hull so tracks well.

Steer clear of the Walker Bays. Tippy and unrepairable. They will make good planters in the future though!!!
 
FairweatherDave said:
I've just bought a senior but sound Avon Redcrest and was considering experimenting with making a solid/slatted floor. Anyone know which back copy of the PBO? I was concerned about the wood causing wear points under the tubes (obviously I would try and sand off any edges). Any tips?
Thanks. Dave.
Sorry if a bit off topic, but also on the inside at the bow is a single rubber "socket mount" similar to the 4 that hold the outboard bracket to the inflatable transom........what's it for??
Click to expand...

Don't know which back no, but was about 4yrs ago! The bed base slats are about 2in wide and slot into rubber sockets .The rubber is in contact with the tubes and floor . Once inflated won't move so no wear. Varnish the slats.
 
Thanks Ludd. I can imagine the slats but what rubber sockets for capping them?

I followed a post on the Drascombe website on tenders last year and a bloke sank his new Walker Bay, he clearly wanted to get an inflatable but got persuaded into a WB but was very unsatisfied with its stability, he then got an inflatable... Read many good reports on the Bics which lead me peversly to a sit on kayak (by Bic) (but I doubt that is the solution to the original post here).
 
This is my dinghy - it came with the yacht so I didn't choose it: would other models provide improvements or is this actually quite a reasonable/stable one as inflatables go?
 
IMO the most stable "normal" dinghy is a 9' Avon Redcrest. I would even go so far as to call it the benchmark. Specs Here. Rated for 4 persons but I would say 2 adults, albeit in years passed it was often that plus 2 kids (one of which me :p). If the tubes, beam or length are smaller it will be less stable. Of course not the easiest thing to stow onboard..........but boats are about compromises.

If I recall correctly the way to flip them over when empty (and no wave / tide action) was to stand on the tube, bounce up and down whilst holding the painter that had been threaded through the opposing rowlock and leaning outboard like a dinghy sailor.........once the suction has broken it lands on your head quite quickly :D Of course I was under 10 stone then. and slightly more energetic :rolleyes:

One thing I notice that no one has raised is, size, shape and nimblebess (age?!) of the person using the dinghy :eek: IMO anyone carrying more than a couple of stones extra ballast or not so agile on their pins will struggle a bit more than others in any dinghy sized tender..........

But otherwise a stern painter sometimes makes a difference and having a stable boarding point with good handholds. and not rushing always does.


Of course for only accross the harbour use and leave tied to the wall 24/7/365 I have a plastic pram type dinghy built by those fine purveyors of Nautical craft - Plastimo :p

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Despite the fact that I have been known to convey myself accross the harbour whilst standing upright, carrying a bag in one hand and a paddle in the other whilst smoking a fag it's not because it is so wonderfully stable - more that I am scared of moving to sit down :eek: Definately not recomended.
 
Walker Bay with tubes

deep denial said:
what about the Walker Bay RID? on paper at least they look stable
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Works for us.

In sheltered water, the painter goes to the mothership quarter cleat, and a short line from the aft seat (actually the davit eyebolts) to the backstay - would be better if we had a squarer transom rather than sugar scoop, but is stable enough to chuck kit & kids on board.

The wheel is only useful on concrete slips, tho.

I've tried the standing-on-the-tube trick, and my ~13 stone doesn't flip it.
 
rubber(fetish?)

FairweatherDave said:
Thanks Ludd. I can imagine the slats but what rubber sockets for capping them?

I followed a post on the Drascombe website on tenders last year and a bloke sank his new Walker Bay, he clearly wanted to get an inflatable but got persuaded into a WB but was very unsatisfied with its stability, he then got an inflatable... Read many good reports on the Bics which lead me peversly to a sit on kayak (by Bic) (but I doubt that is the solution to the original post here).
Click to expand...

If you buy the bed base at IKEA(think it's the single,but measure dinghy) there are rubber strips with sockets included,also webbing to retain slats in situ---once you see it ,it's all very obvious(even to me)!
 
Many thanks Ludd. IKEA here I come

In answer to Vid's question, (and bearing in mind I'm a beginner in this field) I'd say it looks pretty standard and stable to me, but I know my wife hated getting into a similar sized one on our flotilla holiday. I agree the secret is to tether to the mothership two tight lines fore and aft and keep your weight low and in the middle as you get in. I don't think people use pram type dinghies for increased stability, I think their choice is more about having easy shore storage available and durability, not having to inflate etc. The subtle factors like agility, age, body weight must equally make a big difference. Perhaps my only question would be where does Vid chose to sit in the dinghy if on his own, if I'm sitting on the tube I do like another person to counterbalance and Vid's thwart might be a long stretch to an outboard unless sitting on the floor (I believe technically the correct place to be)
 
Vid said:
This is my dinghy - it came with the yacht so I didn't choose it: would other models provide improvements or is this actually quite a reasonable/stable one as inflatables go?
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This is perhaps the minimum practical size but is really too small for more than one person. You will find the tubes smaller and therefore buoyancy less than the more common sizes. With care it is safe and as others have pointed out all inflatables will flip or slide away if not secure and you put too much weight or pressure on the tubes.

As many have suggested, securing at both the bow and stern and always keeping weight in the middle of the boat is the best technique. To my mind a 2.4m is the minimum practical size. I use both a Redcrest and a Plastimo 240 and a toss up which is better (although for long lfe the Redcrest now 30 years old wins hands down). If I had space I would have a 2.6m rigid transom as the bit of extra length gives a lot more capacity. The new Plastimo model with extra buoyancy in the transom looks promising.
 
Walker Bay

We have a 10ft Walker Bay .. Tried it without the floatation collar and shipped alot of water .. Brilliant with it .. We have a Beneteau 323 so entry and exit is from the stern .. Works very well .. Normally two up with kit for the weekend .. Diesel and Water .. Rows very well as well ..
 
I use a 14 foot windrush catamaran. I constructed a rowing platform on top of the alloy crossbeams, cockpit has a recess for my feet. I use oars made from windsurfer masts about 3.7 metres long. I can easily row at 5 to 6 knots. Catamaran and gavinised trailer I bought off Ebay for $81.
 
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We've had a Tinker Traveller for many years-an excellent dinghy which has coped well with rough water. Very stable and a good load carrier. The downside is that it's heavy and doesn't pack up small. For that reason we bought an old Avon Redstart-it's very light, folds up small, goes into the car boot easily and we use it for getting to and from the boat on the mooring. On one occasion I nearly tipped the Avon when about to climb a ladder (would have been stable had there been 2 aboard). The Tinker's freeboard is higher so it's much easier to get on/off board. We've also experienced times when it was too rough for the Avon to get to/from the mooring but the Tinker saved the day. Horses for courses, but if I had to choose it would always be the Tinker.
 
Most Stable

You may want to consider a catamaran design. Livingston boats has been around for 40 years and have sold over 75,000 boats. Previously located in Washington, it was purchased by the Power Cat Group last year. Now built in Tarboro, NC. Visit www.livingstonboats.com. They start at 8', 9', 10', 12', 14, 16' and 19'. Priced from $1550 and up. Fiberglass construction with all composites no wood.
 
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