Morse Control: replace now or later?

nigelmercier

nigelmercier

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Live in Kent, boat in Canary Islands
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Some time ago I bought a new Morse Control for my boat; the existing one works, but sometimes sticks in neutral. The new one also has a switch to inhibit starting when not vertical, and trim-tab controls which I plan to wire to my bow thruster.

I'm also wondering about replacing the control cables.

So, do I replace the control now, or wait until I have the cables?


I have no idea what is involved in either of these jobs, so any advice would be welcome.
 
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdpRbSiQ8o0

This vid is for an outboard-principle is same.
To replace cable(s) you need to know length of old cable,& most accurate way is to remove old cable first & measure it. You can measure without doing this-just be "generous" in measurements. Cable type "should" be type 33C -most common.
You are experiencing a "catch" in operation.Likely one of the cables.When you disconn. the control assy from cables,try operating throttle & shift by hand push/pulling each cable. Cheers / Len
 
scottie said:
Feeling sticky in neutral is most likely an incorrectly adjusted throttle cable try adjusting before changing anything.
Click to expand...

In my experience more likely the gear-change.
As you've already bought the control head (how you spoil that boat) you'll want to fit it. Probably a redundant task as it's usually the cables restricting operation.
I'd definitely carry a spare cable - they always give way at the most inconvenient time, and place.
 
Most if not all single lever controls have a lost motion device (usually a spring) to allow the throttle to allow the movement at the throttle attachment not to open the throttle as you engage gear this is why the instruction advise adjusting the cables in the gear engaged position not neutral
 
scottie said:
Feeling sticky in neutral is most likely an incorrectly adjusted throttle cable try adjusting before changing anything.
Click to expand...

It's the button on the side of the control, it doesn't pop out again. Have tried lube and cleaning.

It's a Volvo Penta 3888311, like this:
6044_5.jpg
 
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I have similair controls on my boat, fitted by previous owner, only problem is they are to long, instead of being neatly clipped along the side of the locker to the engine they snake on the floor of the cockpit, I think I'm right in thinking they only come in certain lengths, does it cost a lot to have them custom made?
 
Generally easy, but depends on access and how small your fingers are :)

For the cables, wrap and tape a long piece of wax string around the end you disconnect and pull the cable through from the other end. This leaves you a mouse to tie the new cable to, allowing you to pull the new one back through.

The cables come in 50cm increments, so no need to have extra coils lying around. The length is stamped on the cable, or just bring along to the chandler and try against the new ones. I always carry four spare cables (the boat uses 10 cables in total - twin engine twin helm setup) of various lengths. I have experienced two failures in my 15yrs of boating, one suddenly leaving me stuck in gear whilst manoeuvring alongside a friends boat. No damage other than pride!!
 
I suffered 2k of damage because a boat sailing past my mooring was unable to get the engine into gear because of a faulty morse control. He also hit a second yacht. My answer is therefor do the job now to reduce the risk of a similar incident.

Generally not a difficult job but make sure you know which way the lever goes on the gearbox for ahead and astern before disconnecting all the old cables.

Yoda
 
nigelmercier said:
It's the button on the side of the control, it doesn't pop out again. Have tried lube and cleaning.

It's a Volvo Penta 3888311, like this:
6044_5.jpg
Click to expand...

You'll have to strip and clean the Al (OH)x off the inner part of the button - water gets in, hydroxides build up and the spring can't overcome the friction.
We have drifted from the control head onto the cables - NOT the question you asked.
You'd be forgiven (after completing the task) for considering it far simpler to fit a new unit!!!
 
Binman said:
I have similair controls on my boat, fitted by previous owner, only problem is they are to long, instead of being neatly clipped along the side of the locker to the engine they snake on the floor of the cockpit, I think I'm right in thinking they only come in certain lengths, does it cost a lot to have them custom made?
Click to expand...

The cables should be as short as is practical allow for removal of control if required and bends tight rather than wide as scrub is more a problem than bend factor in creating friction if clipped under a ceiling either use a tube or lay on a tray
Cables used to be in .25 Mtr and if US foot increments
Basic problem is bad measurement plus add a bit and what the supplier has in stock add them together can add a meter
Use your existing cables to measure accurately and see what you can save in length if it's more than .50mtr consider replacing
 
scottie said:
bends tight rather than wide as scrub is more a problem than bend factor in creating friction
Click to expand...

That's interesting. I always assumed a wide gentle curve was better, which is what I have. Replacing the cables is on the "possible" list this winter - are you saying I'd be better with two straight runs and a sharp-ish corner?

Pete
 
nigelmercier said:
It's the button on the side of the control, it doesn't pop out again. Have tried lube and cleaning.

It's a Volvo Penta 3888311, like this:
6044_5.jpg
Click to expand...
If the shaft behind the rubber is sticking and can't be freed replace control
The link that allows neutral run up is a pin in a slot the pin is pushed out of the slot and is spring loaded to re engage over time the slot becomes a slope ->becomes - ) and the pin just rides up the slot
The mechanism is sealed so either new mechanism from volvo or complete unit
If you have an older control with red button try new button first
 
prv said:
That's interesting. I always assumed a wide gentle curve was better, which is what I have. Replacing the cables is on the "possible" list this winter - are you saying I'd be better with two straight runs and a sharp-ish corner?

Pete
Click to expand...
Yes
 
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