Morse control-correct grease?

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StephenW

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Have a single lever morse control (throttle and gear)and the button is getting sticky - does anyone know, definitively, the correct grease for this? Understand that certain greases are unsuitable as they react with the sheath of the cable and cause it to jam....which we don't want!
 
OK - location UK - assuming normal temp ranges - use Shell AeroGrease no.3 on all atmosphere exposed parts. (For Marine use - use Marine Grease 3) (Surprise?) AeroGrease and Marine Grease are swap equivalent at zero metres (Don't try this at FL 370 / Mach 0.8 after two hours at -50 degs) - the passengers tend to get really upset if you smack them into a hillside.

Seriously - all Marine Greases have an aeronautical numerical equivalent because the Companies make a series of greases from each batch and mark them M or A. The Number on the package (1) (2) etc refers to the aeronautical specs.

If you are experiencing internal Morse cable problems - I am afraid that you will have to BTB - bite the bullet - (If the cables have not been maintained - tuff chuckies)

For normal routine maintainence - every 3 months - demount the cable in entirety -

Remove the inner core -

Lub with Aero 3 (Marine 3) -

Clean off the excess -

Re-install inner -

Re-mount cable -

Can't be bothered? - Well that is hardly my problem, is it?

Regards

Brian
 
I'm confused by your post. I assumed that you were talking about the Morse itself, as the button is a component of this. However, then you talk about the cable, which cannot come into contact with the sealed Morse.

I have no idea what the correct grease is. The stuff in mine looked like a waterproof grease but it was in such a poor state that it might have been almost anything. I have the Morse catalogue and can find no mention of any grease. When I re-lubricated mine I used an automotive grease that appears to work perfectly well and, since the unit is sealed, I can see no reason how any contamination can occur.

Morse Red-Jaket cables are lubricated for life. They should not be lubricated as the internal lining is polyethylene that may reract with lubricants. Most throttle and gear cables cannot be disassembled anyway.
I suggest you do the job soon if your controller is elderly. The factory fill grease dries out and oxidises, causing wear of the detents on the shaft. Take care when disassembling as the detent spring is strong and can fly out. It is quite difficult to replace.
 
Yes - I think the bit about reacting with cables is a bit of a red herring if its just the button that's stiff as the grease shouldn't reach the cables at all.

'Morse' control is like hoover - its a generic name as well as a brand name. I had a very elderly morse type control which I've replaced with a new one. In both cases, all the working bits of the control are clearly visible and it's quite easy to grease or lubricate the bits that move. On the old one the grease had solidified so it was a matter of cleaning it and then relubricating. Mind you are you sure its the button and not the bits that it moves that is giving the problem? Have a look and take it from there.
 
If the button is sticking it may be degraded and enlarged and need replacing; I had to do this some years ago when the button started to jam in, and no amount of greasing and lubrication fixed it.

It will not affect the cable as it will not come into contact. Once you have the controller apart grease it - winch grease would do.

Cables may tend to stick over a few years - as for removing the inner core and greasing it, once you have it out it would easier to replace it completely (depending on the boat installation). But that's not the question you asked, is it?
 
No problems with mine touch wood, but time I looked at it, as it hasn't been lubricated for a couple of years....can I use Keenol (spelling ?) as I have a jar lying on the boat ?? Do I have to be careful of the spring flying out if I merely remove the morse cover on the inside of the cockpit locker?? It was suggested that I use a mix of oil and grease, rather than my usual trick of spraying it with WD40.
 
Keenol should be fine, pity it's no longer available, you might have the last can!
WD40 not suitable, the lubricating effect is temporary and it dissolves any grease.
 
We may not be talking about the same model, although I think many parts are common to them all. Mine is the old version of the MV2. It has a plate inside the cockpit locker, that can be removed after taking off both lever arms. The cover is held on with four countersunk screws. You can add grease but don't move the shaft - this is what releases the spring.
 
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