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SimbaDog

SimbaDog

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I have a Jabsco toilet with grey handle that is not twist & lock, is it possible to buy a kit to convert it? searched online & can't decide!
 
You can buy the complete new type pump which is interchangeable with its predecessor. Cost approx £60 depending on where you buy.
 
>I have a Jabsco toilet with grey handle that is not twist & lock, is it possible to buy a kit to convert it? searched online & can't decide!

Our boat had a Jabsco toilet which wasn't twist and lock and was fitted by the previous owner 1994. Apart from cleaning, the occasional service pack and cooking oil to lubricate it we never had a problem with it. I'm not sure why a twist and lock is needed, fashion, bigger profit?
 
KellysEye said:
>I have a Jabsco toilet with grey handle that is not twist & lock, is it possible to buy a kit to convert it? searched online & can't decide!

Our boat had a Jabsco toilet which wasn't twist and lock and was fitted by the previous owner 1994. Apart from cleaning, the occasional service pack and cooking oil to lubricate it we never had a problem with it. I'm not sure why a twist and lock is needed, fashion, bigger profit?
Click to expand...

The value of the T & L depends upon the layout of your holding tank pipework. Our waste pipe rises vertically over 1.5m from the Jabsco which means 1.5m of backflow. Clean backflow if you pump the handle a lot of times but then you fill the holding tank very quickly. The T & L stops the backflow so is useful when on holding tanks.

Richard
 
KellysEye said:
>I have a Jabsco toilet with grey handle that is not twist & lock, is it possible to buy a kit to convert it? searched online & can't decide!

Our boat had a Jabsco toilet which wasn't twist and lock and was fitted by the previous owner 1994. Apart from cleaning, the occasional service pack and cooking oil to lubricate it we never had a problem with it. I'm not sure why a twist and lock is needed, fashion, bigger profit?
Click to expand...

Because of the holding tank layout I cannot stop some water feeding back into the bowl :(
 
RichardS said:
The value of the T & L depends upon the layout of your holding tank pipework. Our waste pipe rises vertically over 1.5m from the Jabsco which means 1.5m of backflow. Clean backflow if you pump the handle a lot of times but then you fill the holding tank very quickly. The T & L stops the backflow so is useful when on holding tanks.

Richard
Click to expand...

Interesting - we have a similar layout and I have found the T & L utterly ineffective at stopping backflow. The only thing which stopped it was cleaning and replacing outlet pipes and joker valve. Since then no backflow whether we put on T & L or leave the handle loosely down.
 
RupertW said:
Interesting - we have a similar layout and I have found the T & L utterly ineffective at stopping backflow. The only thing which stopped it was cleaning and replacing outlet pipes and joker valve. Since then no backflow whether we put on T & L or leave the handle loosely down.
Click to expand...

Hmmmm......Interesting, however when I look at my pipework there is just a 1M length of pipe going uphill into the holding tank, there must be water able to run back down it! Are you saying that the twist & lock type won't stop that?
 
SimbaDog said:
Hmmmm......Interesting, however when I look at my pipework there is just a 1M length of pipe going uphill into the holding tank, there must be water able to run back down it! Are you saying that the twist & lock type won't stop that?
Click to expand...

Certainly hasn't stopped it in either of our heads - both times cleaning the pipes and replacing (in one case) or cleaning the joker valve stopped it completely. Before that at separate times each head happily refilled slowly with dirty water with the T&L firmly locked.
 
RupertW said:
Interesting - we have a similar layout and I have found the T & L utterly ineffective at stopping backflow. The only thing which stopped it was cleaning and replacing outlet pipes and joker valve. Since then no backflow whether we put on T & L or leave the handle loosely down.
Click to expand...

That's odd. The design of the joker valve is clearly unlikely to provide a watertight seal for very long whereas the T & L flap valve is being held closed by positive pressure from the handle so, provided the flap valve surfaces are not contaminated or distorted, in theory, it should seal properly. When we leave ours we flush well through with tap water and leave the valve "unlocked" so it does not distort over time. So far it works well but it is only 6 months old!

Richard
 
RichardS said:
That's odd. The design of the joker valve is clearly unlikely to provide a watertight seal for very long whereas the T & L flap valve is being held closed by positive pressure from the handle so, provided the flap valve surfaces are not contaminated or distorted, in theory, it should seal properly. When we leave ours we flush well through with tap water and leave the valve "unlocked" so it does not distort over time. So far it works well but it is only 6 months old!

Richard
Click to expand...

I agree the T & L should add a bit of extra reassurance but compress a small flat piece of rubber again and again doesn't seem to really do it. A joker valve seems to me to be explicitly designed to be watertight for long periods provided there is some pressure above it to keep it closed - not dissimilar to heart valves and you'll notice it when they start leaking.

Having said all that I obviously cleaned the top valves as well before doing the joker valves.
 
RupertW said:
I agree the T & L should add a bit of extra reassurance but compress a small flat piece of rubber again and again doesn't seem to really do it. A joker valve seems to me to be explicitly designed to be watertight for long periods provided there is some pressure above it to keep it closed - not dissimilar to heart valves and you'll notice it when they start leaking.

Having said all that I obviously cleaned the top valves as well before doing the joker valves.
Click to expand...

I've probably misread your reply Rupert but the T & L valve is the heavily weighted bottom valve under the base of the pump assembly. The top valves are not related to the T & L function.

Richard
 
It's a few years ago since I replaced mine but I'm fairly sure that I replaced only the piston and top unit from a kit.
 
johnalison said:
It's a few years ago since I replaced mine but I'm fairly sure that I replaced only the piston and top unit from a kit.
Click to expand...

It's a bit counter-intuitive. You would think that the T & L function acts on the top valve assembly but, on the T & L versions, the piston rod is extended down below the piston and acts on the lowest flap valve. You have to remove the complete pump assembly to access this valve. Perhaps this lowest valve is not included in the piston and top unit kit.

Richard
 
RichardS said:
It's a bit counter-intuitive. You would think that the T & L function acts on the top valve assembly but, on the T & L versions, the piston rod is extended down below the piston and acts on the lowest flap valve. You have to remove the complete pump assembly to access this valve. Perhaps this lowest valve is not included in the piston and top unit kit.

Richard
Click to expand...

Ah - I see what you mean now. As I cleaned and scraped everything at the bottom it is possible that the T&L valve cleaning was the important bit not the joker valve. But still no leaks when we leave the T&L valve off. Belt and braces design I guess.
 
>Because of the holding tank layout I cannot stop some water feeding back into the bowl

If that happens the joker valve has a calcium build up and needs cleaning or replacing. Out of interest it is a choker valve but that was patented so Jabsco used joker.
 
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