Barleycorn
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the advice about silencers that I was given in my previous thread.
I went on the boat today to replace my plastic silencer that had melted due to my impeller failing. Unfortunately I found that my rubber exhaust pipe had partially melted too, so that needs replacing.
However having got back and done a bit of googling I have more concerns. My exhaust pipe is 3 1/2" I/D, whilst the engine handbook recommends 4 or 5", although the exhaust elbow is only 3 1/2". The elbow, attached to the turbo, goes up at 45 degrees presumably to get the 12" clearance that was recommended, before turning down to where the rubber pipe joins on. This website, http://www.sbmar.com/articles/marine_exhaust_system_images/ says that this is a big no no, as in the event of prolonged cranking, ie if you have to bleed the fuel and it takes a long time to fire, water can get back into the turbo/head, causing hydraulicing which will wreck the engine. Another website suggested disconnecting the water pipe in instances such as that until the engine fires.
If I twisted the exhaust elbow down so the water runs down hill, then I will lose 6" height so the rubber pipe will be only 6" above the water line.
Whatever I do will be a compromise, but would it be better to do this and fit a flap valve, or leave alone? I am on a drystack, so there is a chance of water running back into the engine when she is lifted, but they usually lift with the bow higher than the stern.
Another option would be to get an inline injector made and fit on the end of the existing elbow, however I would have to lag the elbow and weld up the current water injection hole somehow. At least then I could get it made to 4 or 5". The engine is a Cummins 210 HP. To be honest the boat is over 20 years old, and it doesn't look as if the engine has been rebuilt, so am I worrying over nothing?
Sorry about the long winded post, but I have been thinking too much!
I went on the boat today to replace my plastic silencer that had melted due to my impeller failing. Unfortunately I found that my rubber exhaust pipe had partially melted too, so that needs replacing.
However having got back and done a bit of googling I have more concerns. My exhaust pipe is 3 1/2" I/D, whilst the engine handbook recommends 4 or 5", although the exhaust elbow is only 3 1/2". The elbow, attached to the turbo, goes up at 45 degrees presumably to get the 12" clearance that was recommended, before turning down to where the rubber pipe joins on. This website, http://www.sbmar.com/articles/marine_exhaust_system_images/ says that this is a big no no, as in the event of prolonged cranking, ie if you have to bleed the fuel and it takes a long time to fire, water can get back into the turbo/head, causing hydraulicing which will wreck the engine. Another website suggested disconnecting the water pipe in instances such as that until the engine fires.
If I twisted the exhaust elbow down so the water runs down hill, then I will lose 6" height so the rubber pipe will be only 6" above the water line.
Whatever I do will be a compromise, but would it be better to do this and fit a flap valve, or leave alone? I am on a drystack, so there is a chance of water running back into the engine when she is lifted, but they usually lift with the bow higher than the stern.
Another option would be to get an inline injector made and fit on the end of the existing elbow, however I would have to lag the elbow and weld up the current water injection hole somehow. At least then I could get it made to 4 or 5". The engine is a Cummins 210 HP. To be honest the boat is over 20 years old, and it doesn't look as if the engine has been rebuilt, so am I worrying over nothing?
Sorry about the long winded post, but I have been thinking too much!