AIDY
Well-Known Member
I'm after a set of mooring snubbers for a 40 foot yacht.... i note they are available in rubber which you wrap round your line and in stainless steel coiled like a spring... what do the panel recommend.
mooring snubbers......
- Thread starter AIDY
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Skyva_2
Guest
Rubber is OK but prone to being chewed up by the line in persistent strong winds. I know an owner in Holyhead who has to replace them regularly.
Metal spring is robust but more awkward to handle. I would be surprised if they are stainless.
I use both - rubber on the springs and metal on the bow lines.
Metal spring is robust but more awkward to handle. I would be surprised if they are stainless.
I use both - rubber on the springs and metal on the bow lines.
Chris_Robb
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
I'm after a set of mooring snubbers for a 40 foot yacht.... i note they are available in rubber which you wrap round your line and in stainless steel coiled like a spring... what do the panel recommend.
[/ QUOTE ]
I have used both but for perment moorings I prefer the Spring type from plastimo, which are also much cheaper than rubber. My current set are 3 years old with surface rust, but are fine - get the largest available for 40ft. When you connect them up do take a loop of warp to the pontoon cleat, rather than rely totally on the spring if it did break. I have only bothered with springs on the breast warps. I don't think springs need them, and if in potentially bad weather, I think they should be set full length on the hull and not to a mid ship cleat.
I'm after a set of mooring snubbers for a 40 foot yacht.... i note they are available in rubber which you wrap round your line and in stainless steel coiled like a spring... what do the panel recommend.
[/ QUOTE ]
I have used both but for perment moorings I prefer the Spring type from plastimo, which are also much cheaper than rubber. My current set are 3 years old with surface rust, but are fine - get the largest available for 40ft. When you connect them up do take a loop of warp to the pontoon cleat, rather than rely totally on the spring if it did break. I have only bothered with springs on the breast warps. I don't think springs need them, and if in potentially bad weather, I think they should be set full length on the hull and not to a mid ship cleat.
I
Iota
Guest
In Mayflower Marina in Plymouth they recommend old car tyres. I guess it depends on the conditions you are protecting against.
FullCircle
Well-Known Member
The real good news is that they silence the creaking lines on a bumpy ppntoon, and provide dampened snatch loading to the boat.
However, we double up all lines in poor weather, set so that the second lines are a bit slacker than the snubbed lines, so the damping starts before the second lines take up.
We have the 28mm rubber snubbers with 3 coils of warp. They are an eyewatering price for a lump of pencil eraser, but they do work. We use 18mm 3 strand polyester for our mooring lines.
Mrs Full Circle awarded the snubbers best buy of 2007, which is an honour indeed.
I can usually hear the steel ones creaking in bad weather. A walk along the pontoons at Ostend in the RNSYC part will amply demonstrate the two systems. /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
However, we double up all lines in poor weather, set so that the second lines are a bit slacker than the snubbed lines, so the damping starts before the second lines take up.
We have the 28mm rubber snubbers with 3 coils of warp. They are an eyewatering price for a lump of pencil eraser, but they do work. We use 18mm 3 strand polyester for our mooring lines.
Mrs Full Circle awarded the snubbers best buy of 2007, which is an honour indeed.
I can usually hear the steel ones creaking in bad weather. A walk along the pontoons at Ostend in the RNSYC part will amply demonstrate the two systems. /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
mlthomas
Well-Known Member
We used the rubber snubbers and found them to be really good at dampening out any snatching, and we too doubled up the warps in bad weather so the snubber slowed the movement before the second line stopped it completely.
With the springs, you could splice a permanent piece of warp to act as a spring failsafe.
With the springs, you could splice a permanent piece of warp to act as a spring failsafe.
charles_reed
Well-Known Member
Here in the Med, you can tell the new arrivals from the old hands by the fact they have the rubber snubbers.
The rubber snubbers have neither the hysteresis or life-expectancy of the spring ones and are about twice the price of the most expensive, stainless steel spring ones.
I still have one, albeit in mild steel and therefore a rust-bucket, that I bought in Ajaccio 5 years ago that has done about 2 years continuous use and outlived 3 tails.
Rope as the safety link is pretty useless, it suffers from chafe. Use chain and at the end a big shackle or more chain.
Of course in N European waters you don't have the problem with surge that you have in the Med.
The rubber snubbers have neither the hysteresis or life-expectancy of the spring ones and are about twice the price of the most expensive, stainless steel spring ones.
I still have one, albeit in mild steel and therefore a rust-bucket, that I bought in Ajaccio 5 years ago that has done about 2 years continuous use and outlived 3 tails.
Rope as the safety link is pretty useless, it suffers from chafe. Use chain and at the end a big shackle or more chain.
Of course in N European waters you don't have the problem with surge that you have in the Med.
absit_omen
Well-Known Member
Old scooter tyres. Worked on my HR36 over a winter in Gozo Harbour - and it doesn't get much snatchier than that.
Richard10002
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Old scooter tyres. Worked on my HR36 over a winter in Gozo Harbour - and it doesn't get much snatchier than that.
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Portomaso Marina, (Malta) - big stainless steel springs at about £70 each, (probably £100 now with the euro!!).
Old scooter tyres. Worked on my HR36 over a winter in Gozo Harbour - and it doesn't get much snatchier than that.
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Portomaso Marina, (Malta) - big stainless steel springs at about £70 each, (probably £100 now with the euro!!).
Gazza
Well-Known Member
I'd reinforce the point made about metal snubbers in taking the warp through the snubber so that it's attached both to the boat and the pontoon. Our boat was damaged by the guy on the next berth simply attaching a line to each end of the metal spring so that when it failed there were predictable results!
stuartwineberg
Well-Known Member
On Haslar there are a mix of the different types. The steel ones seem to corrode and they creak like heck when the ferry goes through, not too suitable for a peaceful night's kip. I have rubber snubbers on a 36 foot motor yacht weighing 11 tons and they have been nothing but excellent for a good 12 months of rolling around so far. I think the reservations from the people in the Med might reflect the adverse effect of strong UV on the polymer. Shop around on ebay for them - I got some (cant remember the supplier) stated to be good for up to about 14 tons at a very reasonable price and they are fine
AIDY
Well-Known Member
thanks all...
jimbaerselman
Well-Known Member
Right. Debate: "Snubbers are a fine marketing idea designed to part you from your money."
Do the sums. How much 'give' do you get for your money?
Tyre 20cm.
Steel spring: depends on size, typically 20 to 30cm.
Rubber: 50% max of the length of the rubber (20 to 30cm).
Nylon warp: 20% of its length at half breaking strain (say - 60cm for a typical 3m free length)
Conclusion? Use nylon instead. And in extreme conditions, set up normal mooring lines (slack enough to permit surge, short enough to prevent hitting anything) then add lighter weight nylon lines, half the strength of your usual mooring lines, with just enough tension in them to hold the vessel in the desired mean position.
Depending on the space you have to play within, that will give you any level of 'spring' you wish, up to about 20% of your LOA. At the cost of some duplicated lines.
Yes, nylon stretch does vary a bit depending on the rope weave, and you need to consider its wet strength, typically some 20% lower than its dry strength (but still stronger weight for weight than polyprop).
Don't pay money for snake oil . . .
Do the sums. How much 'give' do you get for your money?
Tyre 20cm.
Steel spring: depends on size, typically 20 to 30cm.
Rubber: 50% max of the length of the rubber (20 to 30cm).
Nylon warp: 20% of its length at half breaking strain (say - 60cm for a typical 3m free length)
Conclusion? Use nylon instead. And in extreme conditions, set up normal mooring lines (slack enough to permit surge, short enough to prevent hitting anything) then add lighter weight nylon lines, half the strength of your usual mooring lines, with just enough tension in them to hold the vessel in the desired mean position.
Depending on the space you have to play within, that will give you any level of 'spring' you wish, up to about 20% of your LOA. At the cost of some duplicated lines.
Yes, nylon stretch does vary a bit depending on the rope weave, and you need to consider its wet strength, typically some 20% lower than its dry strength (but still stronger weight for weight than polyprop).
Don't pay money for snake oil . . .