Mooring snubber; which one?

CAPTAIN FANTASTIC

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I use the second type on my permanent mooring lines in my home marina berth. They seem quite effective at reducing snatch loads.

However I don't know how well they would work with chain. The chain/rope needs to be threaded through the holes at one end, then a few turns around the central bar and then the holes at the other. Fiddly with rope, with chain a right pain I would think, even supposing you can get a size to suit your mooring chain.
 
I use the second type on my permanent mooring lines in my home marina berth. They seem quite effective at reducing snatch loads.

However I don't know how well they would work with chain. The chain/rope needs to be threaded through the holes at one end, then a few turns around the central bar and then the holes at the other. Fiddly with rope, with chain a right pain I would think, even supposing you can get a size to suit your mooring chain.

I will use the snubber with rope as a primary mooring line to take the strain and I will keep the mooring chain to act as a secondary line in the event that the rope fails.
 
What's the first type of compensator constructed from? My first reaction to that one apart from the query is that the external materials could be prone to UV.

The second type of design I've used and they work well but what brand are they? Any of rubber types will crack and perish with UV in the end, I suggest you buy a size up from recommended as they will part in severe conditions which is exactly when you need them.

There is the stainless spring type which also work well, they do wear out as well but have the advantage of wear being visible and probably preventable and no UV degradation.
 
Rubbish rubber snubbers.

Hi Captn,
I tried the black rubber type of snubber - larger and hideously more expensive than the one you show on your link. Could have snubbed a frigate with it.
Lasted about three gales - then the (correctly sized) rope cut through the loop - so a total waste of loot!
This was only on a marina pontoon so imho totally unsuitable for exposed mooring tackle. Not tried the other one but it is asking a lot of any rubber compound to last any length of time on swinging mooring tackle.
Make up your own heavy bridle (across two bow cleats if possible) with oversized nylon rope , protect from chafe with hose pipe and that will provide a quieter ride than the (fallback) chain and provide a bit of give when she snatches.


Robin
Pleiades of Birdham
MXWQ5
 
I have a couple of oversized rubber ones that are 2 years old now, absolutely fine and work quite well, though I am blown on to the pontoon finger in prevailing winds. In hindsight would probably have gone a size smaller for a bit more more damping effect...
 
Hi,
I am a new proud owner of a 38ft sailboat and found this thread. Did
anyone find any useful products through here? I searched a lot and found a
thing called SnubberOne:

http://thesnubber.com


Looks promising, but I am not a pro in any sense, so can anyone tell me if
I am making the right choice of
mooring snubber here? I don't want to do anything wrong to damage by
beautiful new boat :)
 
Hi,
I am a new proud owner of a 38ft sailboat and found this thread. Did
anyone find any useful products through here? I searched a lot and found a
thing called SnubberOne:

http://thesnubber.com


Looks promising, but I am not a pro in any sense, so can anyone tell me if
I am making the right choice of
mooring snubber here? I don't want to do anything wrong to damage by
beautiful new boat :)

This is old thread but still very valid; I have not used these rubber snubbers but they are the most popular once around. I am sure you will get comments from people who have used them
 
Hi,
I am a new proud owner of a 38ft sailboat and found this thread. Did
anyone find any useful products through here? I searched a lot and found a
thing called SnubberOne:

http://thesnubber.com


Looks promising, but I am not a pro in any sense, so can anyone tell me if
I am making the right choice of
mooring snubber here? I don't want to do anything wrong to damage by
beautiful new boat :)
Have you looked at this thread: http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...-and-a-decent-old-tyre-winter-mooring-covered
 
Why not a stretchy Nylon bridle hooked to the chain, keeping the chain as a reserve?
For more stretch you can take the inboard ends of the line to the foot of the mast or even to the cleats at aft.
 
Why not a stretchy Nylon bridle hooked to the chain, keeping the chain as a reserve?
For more stretch you can take the inboard ends of the line to the foot of the mast or even to the cleats at aft.
Complete sense! Why spend money on ineffective devices when far better solutions are available.

The average spring/rubber/whatever mechanical snubber advertised as suitable for a 12m boat of around 10 tons gives about 20cm stretch if you're lucky

2m of nylon three strand gives more than that. 15% stretch = 30cm. But only if it's small enough diameter for the forces involved to reach full stretch (about 10 to 12mm diameter did for us). Once 15% is reached, a big limiting line has to prevent further stretch and permanent distortion. We used 18 to 20mm for the limiting line. In practice, we used 7m of line, giving 1m of stretch.

For moorings, we used single line, rolling hitch to mooring chain or warp, boat end secured to mast giving 7m free length and up to 1m spring. The bit running through the hawse was encased in a metre of piping.

If the mooring chain or warp couldn't be made up with 1m of slack, then a limiting line was added, made up with 1m slack. Usually necessary when the mooring had a ring top, looping a chain through the ring for anti-chafe.
 
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Complete sense! Why spend money on ineffective devices when far better solutions are available.

The average spring/rubber/whatever mechanical snubber advertised as suitable for a 12m boat of around 10 tons gives about 20cm stretch if you're lucky

2m of nylon three strand gives more than that. 15% stretch = 30cm. But only if it's small enough diameter for the forces involved to reach full stretch (about 10 to 12mm diameter did for us). Once 15% is reached, a big limiting line has to prevent further stretch and permanent distortion. We used 18 to 20mm for the limiting line. In practice, we used 7m of line, giving 1m of stretch.

For moorings, we used single line, rolling hitch to mooring chain or warp, boat end secured to mast giving 7m free length and up to 1m spring. The bit running through the hawse was encased in a metre of piping.

If the mooring chain or warp couldn't be made up with 1m of slack, then a limiting line was added, made up with 1m slack. Usually necessary when the mooring had a ring top, looping a chain through the ring for anti-chafe.

I use Octoplait between 2-10m when anchoring - far more give than any snubber and considerably cheaper - but then I don't moor.
A common and effective absorber, used by locals all over the Med is a light car or scooter tyre - unbeautiful, thoroughly effective, long-lived and cheap.
 
I use Octoplait between 2-10m when anchoring - far more give than any snubber and considerably cheaper - but then I don't moor.
Ah. Anchoring snubbers. I use from 10m to 20m! Makes a major difference in winds over 25kts when sailing around the anchor begins to get a bit wild on fin keel boats. There's slightly more stretch in 3 strand than in octoplait for most nylon warp specifications - not significant enough to worry about.

A common and effective absorber, used by locals all over the Med is a light car or scooter tyre - unbeautiful, thoroughly effective, long-lived and cheap.
gives about 35% stretch over the internal diameter of the tyre, typically 7cm to 10cm stretch for 20cm to 30cm internal diameter, so rather less than can be achieved with snubbers. Can't go further, since rims are wire . . .
 
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