Mooring Buoy/Strops

[Ian_Rob]

I have just replaced the two strops on our mooring buoy as the thimbles on our old strops had rotated in the loops to the point where they were cutting into the rope.

The problem is caused by the strops becoming increasingly twisted around one other. They are individually attached to the buoy by a swivel and though I have greased it, it doesn’t significantly rotate when loaded causing the whole arrangement to become very tight. Is there any obvious solution? Perhaps a single strop would be better but I quite like the security of having two?

 

[doug748]

Stainless Jaw Jaw swivels work well, I generally heat them up and run lanolin or grease in, using a hot air gun.

Jaw and Jaw Swivels | Stainless Steel Mooring Swivel

 

[Stemar]

I have twin strops. On my previous monohull, I took one to each bow fairlead, on Jazzcat, it's one to each hull, with roughly a 90° angle between them. The strops are one piece polysteel with a brummel splice tightened down on a hard thimble in the middle.

They do get tangled, but never to the point of damaging the rope. I could very easily be tempted to put one of Doug's SS swivels between the mooring and the strops, though.

 

[William_H]

Clearly it looks like the ropes are tending to twist together in preference to rotating the swivel. Presumably if the twist got so severe it would end up rotating the swivel. So lubrication of the swivel might help. It might. (the ss swivel might also help) If you can separate the two strops ie one to each side of the bow then you might get the swivel to rotate before too many twists of the ropes. or even a crazy idea separating the ropes with a piece of dowel. I get the same problem with 3 strops and just put up with it. Swivel is under the buoy so gets fouled. ol'will

 

[peterf]

I believe this situation might be similar to my own. I would recommend removing the seaweed from under the buoy, I believe it might be this growth that is causing the buoy to rotate. I tend to use a plastic scraper to remove the seaweed.

 

[Graham376]

I use a single (double length) 24mm strop divided into two. Double it up so there's a loop in the middle, pass the loop through the shackle then pass the tails through the loop and shackle twice. My swivel is between riser and ground chain.

 

[thinwater]

Look at how the shackle lug is jammed against the swiveling pin in the center of the swivel. Of course it can't swivel, and lube won't help. You need to fix the shackle fit; the solution is hard to guess from a photo, but maybe larger or maybe some washers.

I wouldn't trust cable ties. I've seen too many just fall apart.

 

[Ian_Rob]

Look at how the shackle lug is jammed against the swiveling pin in the center of the swivel. Of course it can't swivel, and lube won't help. You need to fix the shackle fit; the solution is hard to guess from a photo, but maybe larger or maybe some washers.

I wouldn't trust cable ties. I've seen too many just fall apart.

 

[Ian_Rob]

I too thought that the shackle was jamming the swivel but actually it doesn’t. The shackle the marina used is too large but apparently they had to use that size to take the thimbles on the strops that I supplied.

I will see if they are happy to substitute a jaw jaw swivel. I think I am right in saying that they are responsible for sinker/chain/buoy and swivel and that I am only responsible for the strops.

 

[Ian_Rob]

I believe this situation might be similar to my own. I would recommend removing the seaweed from under the buoy, I believe it might be this growth that is causing the buoy to rotate. I tend to use a plastic scraper to remove the seaweed.

Thanks for this interesting suggestion which I have been pondering. If the buoy was rotating, wouldn’t there be a circle of rust staining around the entire buoy rather than, as can be seen from the photo, just on one side?

 

[Daydream believer]

Place the eyes on the pin of the shackle. Make sure that it is moused to stop the pin unscrewing. Lash the 2 eyes side by side so they sit square to the pin.This can be done with a couple of thick cable ties. This will stop the eyes cutting into the strops.
The curve in the shackle will be less likely to snag on the swivel pin. If the swivel does not rotate, the strops will twist together, but should not damage the eyes. When the twist reaches the boat they will not be able to twist further.
We use bouys with a different centre. Ours have the eye that is swivelled & I suggest that you change that centre. You can then put each mooring strop on an individual shackle. Thus a loose shackle does not mean both strops drop off.
New centres can be obtained from EYE at Levington.(Boat Gear Direct)

 

[Ian_Rob]

All good stuff . Thanks very much for the helpful replies.

 

[Ian_Rob]

Place the eyes on the pin of the shackle. Make sure that it is moused to stop the pin unscrewing. Lash the 2 eyes side by side so they sit square to the pin.This can be done with a couple of thick cable ties. This will stop the eyes cutting into the strops.
The curve in the shackle will be less likely to snag on the swivel pin. If the swivel does not rotate, the strops will twist together, but should not damage the eyes. When the twist reaches the boat they will not be able to twist further.
We use bouys with a different centre. Ours have the eye that is swivelled & I suggest that you change that centre. You can then put each mooring strop on an individual shackle. Thus a loose shackle does not mean both strops drop off.
New centres can be obtained from EYE at Levington.(Boat Gear Direct.

I am not sure whether the marina will be up for changing the centre but can ask. I assume that when the shackle was installed, that the eyes (thimbles) were around the pin but they have moved in use. Lashing them together at or just above the thimbles might be the solution. Thankyou.