Moisture issue on the wooden gunwale of Blue Angel

Tender_aft said:
Couldn't you connect the compressor to garden irrigation hose then you can put outlets anywhere in the hose that you need them....I did wonder about putting warm air through as well.

Costs more, but airco could also be piped there as it is dehumidified air, it will take the moisture away...and if you have reverse cycle that's perfect. (how much annual budget do you have for this? I'm building up to sending trained monkeys in there with cloths to wipe it down)
Click to expand...
Compressed air unless dried inline after compression is saturated with moisture!.....you can compress ambient air but not the moisture it holds....hence will be worse than before I'm afraid.
 
Divemaster1 said:
Bart,

Before you start cutting, here's a different perspective to consider:

We know the problem probably is fresh water as salt actually protects the wood, so would not rot of you had salt water ingress...

We also must assume that as the cavity heats up, then the damp must rise towards the top of the bulwark cavity.

You seem to have a slight overhang of the teak capping on the outside of the railing ... but un-sure of what you have on the inside....

Would you not consider fitting some neatly made SS Closable "Trickle vents" at the top, just under the Teak Capping ? ... inside ... or outside ??

Something like these....

trickle_mirror_lrg.jpg


canopy_mirror_lrg.jpg


..... would provide a opening vent at the top, low maintenance (no painting) and not look too much out of place with the other SS fittings..
Click to expand...
Good suggestion Alf....just like vented soffits for your roof space!...like it.
 
Bizarre choice of construction IMHO! I think I'd look to create holes/vents top and bottom to create air circulation. I hear what you say about green water getting in, and thus bottom holes at the very base (deck level) would be better to prevent any quantity getting trapped (not sure much would actually get in). In this instance however you appear not to be able to create holes at deck level without removing the inner skin and raising the bottom support timber - by say 1cm on 'feet'? That would probably be my preferred option, but a lot of work and would also require holes draining the top section into the lower section... (i.e. more work) Closable hatches seem a good compromise if aesthetically acceptable and if the round hole visible in the cutaway is common to all the vertical bracing, then one hatch every other section would probably suffice? My concern would be that when closed there's no air circulation, but presumably you wouldn't want left open as unsightly... On that aspect I personally think the stainless type 'usually open' vent is the better bet (i.e. usually vented, but could be closed in heavy seas, rather than usually closed but opened to dry as with the hatches). Best of all IMHO would be vent at the top and air gap at the bottom - functional and inoffensive to the eye! :)
 
@ Firefly, Divemaster, P4paul, your proposals are all variations of my original idea. Divemaster's SS Vent panels are so far the nicest,
but I still prefer the hatches, painted in correct white, less striking,
Thank you all for contributing, and Alf for the link to a interesting supplier of SS products, (in the picture meta data)

@ rbcoomer, Re Your concern about "no air" when the hatches are closed, don't forget thats how it orriginally was buyld, and lasted for almost 20 years.
Originally water came in through the SS rail sockets on top. This is cured as good as we could with the rubber seals.

so I believe if we can open the hatches a few occasions a year, inspect for moisture, and have it ventilated and drying when wet, we should be OK.


Does anybody know where I can get Stainless Steel T-nuts ? Can't find them in Belgium.
its for fixing the deck lights with M4 screws, instead of wood screws, (the screw holes start to be worn, so lights are not tight enough in some positions.
and I need some SS M6 T-nuts for something else.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top