Modifying my backstay

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Giblets

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After some excellent advice from the esteemed members here on the jib downhaul arrangements on my little boat (for which very many thanks) I thought that I would ask for some further opinions on the next problem.

As you will see from the following pic the backstay on my Leisure 17 splits into two about 1m above the aft deck and thence to the chainplates.

180312015-1.jpg


Now this arrangement is very restrictive when having to try and access the transom hung outboard for either starting or maneuvering purposes (especially when fully togged in oilies and lifejacket!). I was wondering, therefore, if it would be possible to raise the junction where the split takes place by another metre to widen the angle of the two lower stays thereby increasing the room available between them.

Or should I just loose a few more kilos! :o

TIA

Pete
 
Giblets said:
After some excellent advice from the esteemed members here on the jib downhaul arrangements on my little boat (for which very many thanks) I thought that I would ask for some further opinions on the next problem.

As you will see from the following pic the backstay on my Leisure 17 splits into two about 1m above the aft deck and thence to the chainplates.

180312015-1.jpg


Now this arrangement is very restrictive when having to try and access the transom hung outboard for either starting or maneuvering purposes (especially when fully togged in oilies and lifejacket!). I was wondering, therefore, if it would be possible to raise the junction where the split takes place by another metre to widen the angle of the two lower stays thereby increasing the room available between them.

Or should I just loose a few more kilos! :o

TIA

Pete
Click to expand...

take it as high as you fancy, some boats have 2 backstays
 
would a fabricated steel triangle (tubular) about 18 inches sides give you access to the o/b ? Perhaps a little higher than the Talurit too ?


EDIT
You could put a parrot on it when moored.... :)
 
sarabande said:
would a fabricated steel triangle (tubular) about 18 inches sides give you access to the o/b ? Perhaps a little higher than the Talurit too ?


EDIT
You could put a parrot on it when moored.... :)
Click to expand...

My parrot has his own perch

DSCF0779.jpg
 
sailorman said:
take it as high as you fancy, some boats have 2 backstays
Click to expand...

Not too high! My boat used to have an inverted 'Y' backstay and to reach the rigging screw I had to stand on the mainsheet horse and reach up to arms length with a spanner in each hand; whilst trying not to get thrown off by the wash from passing boats!

Now I have twin backstays with rigging screws where I can reach them. Also it's easy to fit a simple backstay tensioning system (see picture)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Stu Jackson said:
I agree. When we raised out split backstay many years ago, I wish I'd have thought of installing two turnbuckles (rigging screws) at the BASE of each of the splits. Getting "up there" to adjust the single one at the split is a PITA.
Click to expand...

A good idea there, Stu. So would it be better to have a block fitted to the lower end of the upper single stay (if you see what I mean) and have a continuous wire up from one rigging screw, through the block and back down to the other rigging screw?
 
Giblets said:
A good idea there, Stu. So would it be better to have a block fitted to the lower end of the upper single stay (if you see what I mean) and have a continuous wire up from one rigging screw, through the block and back down to the other rigging screw?
Click to expand...

Yes indeed my system has a pulley at the bottom of the backstay the Y is fixed one side and hasa 4 purchase tackle on the other side. (fractional rig so adjusting backstay tension is more fruitful.)

I know what you mean by access for engine. Mine is much the same but stern rail is higher.
I am in the process of building a stern rail of a section about 900mm wide in the centre over the tiller with gaps both at the motor side and the boarding ladder side then 3 legged posts at each corner. (waiting for winter haul out)
The gap for the motor will make it much easier to fit the motor which is stored inside. The gap for ladder will make boarding from the water much easier. Currently to climb over the stern rail I have to grab the backstay for a high hand hold.
The centre rail is necessary to support my mast support for road transport or motoring mast down.
I will leave the backstay as is. It is quite close to where the posts of the centre section of stern rail will be but I see no reason why you should not attach the backstay to the stern rail. good luck olewill
 
parsifal said:
Not too high! My boat used to have an inverted 'Y' backstay and to reach the rigging screw I had to stand on the mainsheet horse and reach up to arms length with a spanner in each hand; whilst trying not to get thrown off by the wash from passing boats!

Now I have twin backstays with rigging screws where I can reach them. Also it's easy to fit a simple backstay tensioning system (see picture)
Click to expand...

a block on the backstay with dyneema from each quarter lead through it with a 4 part tackle would be ok, then its adjustable as well.
 
merlin3688 said:
The Leisure 17 has 4mm rigging so what ever you do the cost will be small. As has been mentioned before some boats have twin backstays running from the mast head, if you went this way you would need a double tang at the top.
Click to expand...

The Leisure actually has 3mm rigging (or at least mine has). I need to change the forestay to 4mm if I go down the roller reefing route so may well end up upgrading the lot as I believe I still have the original stuff fitted. However I would agree that hopefully the cost will not be too high.
 
Giblets said:
The Leisure actually has 3mm rigging (or at least mine has). I need to change the forestay to 4mm if I go down the roller reefing route so may well end up upgrading the lot as I believe I still have the original stuff fitted. However I would agree that hopefully the cost will not be too high.
Click to expand...

My boat originally had 3mm rigging. I upgraded the foerestay when it need to be replaced ( broken strand) Some parts of my roller had to be adapted to suit the larger wire but it does seem to run better on the larger wire.

All the rest remains 3mm.

If you upgrade tension it as though it is still 3mm ... don't increase the tension or you could over stress the fixings and the boat although I guess the leisure is pretty tough.

Apart from any requirement to suit the roller 3mm is quite adequate for the Leisure 17
 
sailorman said:
a block on the backstay with dyneema from each quarter lead through it with a 4 part tackle would be ok, then its adjustable as well.
Click to expand...

Dyneema is only a form of polythene. It may be strong when new but how does its resistance to UV compare with that of stainless steel wire?
 
sailorman said:
s/s has other issues doesnt it,crevice corrosion, work hardening.
lots of race boats use dyneema rigging
Click to expand...

Yes we know about work hardening and crevice corrosion.
What race boats do is irrelevant to my kind of sailing.

You suggested Dyneema. I asked about its UV resistance ....... I am still waiting for an answer.
 
Rigging size

I agree if you have 3mm then this is fine for a 17' boat, if you do decide to change to 4mm check the pin sizes on the rigging screws, standard pin on 4mm is 7.9 although you can get them with a pin of 6.4 which is standard on the 3mm rigging screws. Some chain plates only have a hole in which is big enough for the pin.
 
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