Modification Question/Advice?

[Dougal]

I’m looking for some advice please?

The build quality of my 30 year old Beneteau Evasion 32 is mostly very solid indeed, albeit not exactly cosmetic or aesthetic by today’s standards. However, the method used to attach the teak rail to gunwale tops is oddly extremely poor...

The hull to deck join is horizontal and less than 3cm wide. This is drilled every meter or so where a screw holds the teak rail from below. The rails extend beyond the hull, acting as a rubbing strake. This means that each time the boat is lifted using straps, the wood is often ripped clean out where the straps are. VERY bad news indeed. If I’m around, then I can place soft packing and spacing between the hull and straps to prevent this, but I’m not always there when she’s lifted.

I was thinking of replacing all the screws with small diameter S/S nuts & bolts. There is JUST room on the underside, if I grind back one edge of each nut.

Does anyone see any problems or disadvantage in doing this, or have any other ideas?

Many thanks for any help.

 

[Billjratt]

I think solid bolts will transfer the damage elsewhere - ie -the GRP maybe.
I have a similar situation with gunwhale capping and make sure I have my spreader and pads in place before a crane comes near the boat. If you aren't always there to supervise, perhaps choosing a lifter with spreaders fitted to do the job would be a option.
My "spreader" is an aluminium ladder laid across the boat, as I need to protect a teak handrail as well. The pads have blue plastic waterpipe stitched in, they hold the strops away from the capping and transfer the compression to the hull.

 

[rosssavage]

I agree - at least you know where the damage will occur, it's easy to fix and cheap.... Why not just undo the screws from the teak before the lift - the wood will spring in a bit, then spring out again when the load is removed. Replace screws. done.

 

[Stork_III]

I agree - at least you know where the damage will occur, it's easy to fix and cheap.... Why not just undo the screws from the teak before the lift - the wood will spring in a bit, then spring out again when the load is removed. Replace screws. done.

Why not use somebody who knows how to lift a boat properly.

 

[Rigger Mortice]

Why don't you fix the soft padding to the rail with gaffer tape before each lift? If necessary tape on a sign. Tell the yard what you expect them to do and let them get on with it.

Lots of boats have signs to show where they should be lifted; the yard should be used to doing it properly.

 

[Dougal]

Why not use somebody who knows how to lift a boat properly.

...because it's a tiny French port with no other option!

 

[Stork_III]

...because it's a tiny French port with no other option!

In that case, your idea of bolts may just result in damage to the hull joint, spreader bars as post 2 are your answer.