RogerRat
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the possibly stupid question but could you explain this further please.
Ta
Questions like this are not stupid and can save you a lot of trouble and scares some day. Most instructors' will go over this in a day skipper course. Most factory fitted anchors I've come across have the anchor chain shackled directly on to an eye bolt molded into the glass matting deep down inside the anchor locker.
In changeable weather conditions, especially if you're anchored further out, fishing over rocks or you've been forced to anchor in an unfamiliar area over rocks. You may also inadvertently, snag your anchor an old anchor chain, mooring tackle or even a cable.
For several reasons, it may be safer to cut your anchor free, mark it with a fender or buoy and return to collect it another day.
The problem will be obvious when your trying to cut through a shackle with a junior hacksaw cos that's all that will fit in the locker with you. You could even be upside down trying to reach said coupling. You might be asking now, 'Why not undo the shackle?' Well, this sits in salty sea water most of the time because most people forget to wash it down regularly. They're rarely stainless or big enough, so the galvanising rusts and the shackle screw seizes. All this is happening while you are being thrown around with the possibility of waves spraying over the top. In worse cases the bow can be dragged under if the anchor is properly fouled!
The remedy or get out is to splice a rope end, often called a 'bitter end' minimum 2 metres, preferably 5-10 metres to the boat end of the chain and tie this onto a new larger stainless shackle in the locker. This piece of rope is effectively a sacrificial piece. Should you get into trouble and totally snared, one swipe with a sharp pocket knife and you'll be free as it's much easier to cut through rope than chain. If you were to extend this extra rope to say 30 metres you can also increase your anchoring scope/depth.
Important: This rope should be the correct diameter to match the chain and chain gypsy so that the rope will grip in the notches around the gypsy like a jamming cleat. By using a 'chain splice' this will allow the rope to move continuously around the windlass making the transition automatic from rope to chain.
Hope that's clearer. :encouragement:
RR