mixing red lead putty

roophap

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hi there
i was wondering if anybody new the best way to mix red lead with with linseed oil putty for stopping and also what quantity and any special ingredients to add.

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tillergirl

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one pound of putty to 2ozs of red lead. Frankly you might measure once and subsequently you'll judge by the colour.

Get yourself an offcut of ply - with a bit of laminate on is nice - chop up the putty and add in the red lead. Knead together and add raw linseed oil to get back to the original consistency. Bake in a pre-heated oven at gas mark 6 - sorry made that last bit up - couldn't resist being silly. My little recipe book says add gold size for topsizes but I can't remember where I got that from. I always use white lead for the topsides (colour doesn't leech through the undercoat)



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trouville

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i better try again to see the PBO rubbish is just the end ive had lots of wooden boats including a harison butler buchanan now hillyard 12ton i started readind rubish as well
dont use modern stuff mostly polyurathaine and better polysulphide(unless your doing a deck or coach roof
Putty its great underwater hull use i now buy putty if its a bit dry i ad linseed oil mesey but worth it dont bother with red lead (forbidden by brussels for at least 10 years) if you really must have lead you can get from a chemists shop, in italy you can buy red lead from your maker of anti fouling who will add extra TBT if you pick the right bcoulor
puttys really great stuff if you have worm or rot a copper plate with putty under it works for years
dont read that RUBBISH people who have never been near a wood en boat proffer





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tillergirl

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Me again!. On a carvel constructed wooden boat, the seam between each plank is 'caulked'. Taht means there is a V shaped gap between each plank into which is hammered 'caulking', which above the waterline is thick cotton which is twisted like old fashioned natural string. This caulking is hammered in tight (but not too firmly to bust out the back edges of the planks) leaving a indentation in the front of the seam. This indentation is then filled with 'stopping', traditionally putty with lead powder added to form a watertight smooth finish. A well finished carvel boat will not show its seams. The putty allows the planks to swell upon launch without damage maintaining a water tight seal.

A clinker boat relies upon the mating edges of the overlapping planks for water tightness and should never be caulked or have stopping applied between the planks.

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