Mirror offshore rigging and general tips

[ghostlymoron]

I modified the mast foot on mine so that the mast dropped aft rather than for'ard. Just drilled another hole in the foot which made a big difference. The only problem I had with the boat was that it tipped over when dried out as the bilge keels sank into the sand on my drying mooring so I swapped it for a Leisure 20.

 

[Phil900ss]

Out of Cardiff, but only day sailing, possibly the odd overnight slightly further afield. Thank y

Out of Cardiff, but only day sailing, possibly the odd overnight slightly further afield. Thank y

Hello again. Just another question, the motor I currently have is a short shaft, 17” bracket to cavitation plate. Looking with the motor in position, the prop is well clear of the hull but the back of the keel (quite a wide section) also projects further down than the prop and I wondered if there would be any benefit using a long shaft or would this have a detrimental effect.
Again, many thanks in advance for your help.
Phil.

 

[VicS]

Hello again. Just another question, the motor I currently have is a short shaft, 17” bracket to cavitation plate. Looking with the motor in position, the prop is well clear of the hull but the back of the keel (quite a wide section) also projects further down than the prop and I wondered if there would be any benefit using a long shaft or would this have a detrimental effect.
Again, many thanks in advance for your help.
Phil.

The trouble with a short shaft outboard on a sailing boat is that when the boat pitches in a bit of a chop the prop is constantly being lifted from the water and you end up getting nowhere in conditions when you'd like to get there quickly. A long shaftt engine allows you to mount it with the prop a bit deeper.
A "sail version " will also have a smaller pitch prop which is better for a displacement type of boat.

 

[Phil900ss]

Out of Cardiff, but only day sailing, possibly the odd overnight slightly further afield. Thank y

Out of Cardiff, but only day sailing, possibly the odd overnight slightly further afield. Thank y

Hello again. Just another question, the motor I currently have is a short shaft, 17” bracket to cavitation plate. Looking with the motor in position, the prop is well clear of the hull but the back of the keel (quite a wide section) also projects further down than the prop and I wondered if there would be any benefit using a long shaft or would this have a detrimental effect.
Again

The trouble with a short shaft outboard on a sailing boat is that when the boat pitches in a bit of a chop the prop is constantly being lifted from the water and you end up getting nowhere in conditions when you'd like to get there quickly. A long shaftt engine allows you to mount it with the prop a bit deeper.
A "sail version " will also have a smaller pitch prop which is better for a displacement type of boat.

Many thanks again, long shaft it is.

 

[Tyler 4223]

Rig

As said the cap shrouds must be mounted to the deck well aft of the mast like a dinghy if there is no backstay. Without this aft set the mast would fall forward without a mainsail and mainsheet pulling and in any case would not have enough forestay tension.
The disadvantage as you have identified is that the mainsail can chafe on the side stays (cap shrouds)
You should try not to let it out too far and have a powerful vang or wide traveeller for the mainsheet to hold the boom down and so minimise the belly in the main when running.
The advantage of no backstay is that you can have a lot of roach on the leech of the mainsail. Roach is the outwar curve of the main sail aft edge going out beyond the straight line mat top to boom end. This will give more sail area and power for a limited height mast but means you must have battens to hold the edge out.
good luck with the new boat olewill

Hi can anyone tell where to get sails for a 1967 Mirror Off Shore diesel sailboat Mk1

 

[LittleSister]

Almost any sailmaker will make you some. They will have (or have access to) the standard dimensions.

Most will have a pro-forma to check the dimensions of your rig so they can confirm the sail sizes. (There are often variations during the production run of boats, especially of that era, due to e.g. unavailability of the original masts or whatever, or another supplier offering something similar for a lower price, or a boat might have been changed by an owner at some point in its life.) Ideally one would have the sailmaker visit the boat to measure it up, but I think that could perhaps add a disproportionate increase in the cost of the Mirror Offshore's small sails.

The general advice for sailmakers is to go local. Once you've identified a potential sailmaker, do a search of YBW forum for the name. Most will have mainly positive reviews and maybe one or two dissatisfied customers, but the are one or two sailmakers somehow still in business who have appalling records of customer service. (The same goes for those selling second hand sails.)

No point, in my view, of going for premium sailmakers, or fancy materials or construction, for what I think is a fine boat, but one thet is always going to have modest sailing performance.

If you're on a tight budget you could buy second-hand sails, though given the age and typical ownership of the Mirror Offshore you'd be very unlikely to find any that aren't on their last legs. You could have sails from another boat cut-down for size - there are several companies offering second-hand sails and alteration/recutting services, but be wary: one of the notoriously bad sailmakers mentioned above is amongst those doing so.

Good luck and happy sailing.

 

[William_H]

I would encourage OP to search for second hand sails. Measure up the luff length, boom length and also the firestay length. These dimensions less say 10cms will dictate the max sail size you can carry. Anything smaller might be fine also. As said if you find a main sail that is bigger you may be able to get a sail maker to cut it down or indeed cut it down yourself. Regarding jib(s) I presume you will go hank on jibs so you will need a small jib perhaps off a larger dinghy (even with wire luff which can be removed) and later perhaps a bigger full sized jib for light weather. All this on the basis of it being a low value boat so not worth cost of new sails. ol'will

 

[Danthegunner]

Hi, if this forum still going I just acquired an old 1968 mk1. She's a total mess inside and out and I want to restored her. I can find the basic specifications but not the full design for restoration purposes. Can anyone help or point me in the right direction?

 

[JerryRhum]

Hi Dan

I’ve got a mark 1.

Are you trying to restore yours to the original spec?

I’ve just ripped out a load of the fittings and electrics and covered most surfaces with camper van felt.

 

[Danthegunner]

Yeah as close as I can. I have a lot of flaking paintwork inside and plan to sand it back and seal with primer before repainter. The cushions are quite mouldy but they are original. Any ideals how to get them clean again. Funnily enough I recently moved from Bletchley to the Isle of Wight!