Mini Lathe

[nigelmercier]

I've just bought a Mini Lathe, like this one: http://amzn.to/1sPJ4dR

It is currently sitting on my lounge floor while I consider how to protect it from damp in my shed. Looking outside this morning I'm glad I didn't put it straight in there.

Once the protective grease is removed, what would be best? GT85 perhaps http://amzn.to/1gjc450

I have never used a lathe before, but I've got a few simple projects lined up. Any tips on good books for beginners?

[Later] Just remembered, one job requires a tailstock tap adaptor, but it would seem more flexible to get a 4-jaw tailstock chuck. Do such things exist?

 

[prv]

How about attacking the problem from the other end and making the shed less damp? That will benefit all your tools.

Where is the damp coming from?

Pete

 

[vyv_cox]

A friend who has a similar one leaves a small lightbulb lit beneath a cover over the lathe. Has kept it pristine over many years.

 

[prv]

A friend who has a similar one leaves a small lightbulb lit beneath a cover over the lathe. Has kept it pristine over many years.

I have a small electric heater under the bench in my shed. Turned right down so it doesn't make the place noticeably warm (unless I'm doing fibreglassing etc), but it seems to prevent condensation ok.

Pete

 

[Poignard]

My outside workshop used to be cold and a bit damp. Then my neighbour built a kitchen extension close up against it. That cured the problem.

 

[Flossdog]

If you are serious about becoming competent with the lathe why not join a local model engineering club. Usually, the members are very friendly and would be only too pleased to help you with the basics of the tool. They might even have beginners courses arranged to attract new members. Lathe work is hugely satisfying. Have fun!

 

[Poignard]

Here's a good book

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Amateurs-Lathe-Lawrence-H-Sparey/dp/0852422881

 

[doug748]

I've just bought a Mini Lathe, like this one: http://amzn.to/1sPJ4dR....

[Later] Just remembered, one job requires a tailstock tap adaptor, but it would seem more flexible to get a 4-jaw tailstock chuck. Do such things exist?

Looks great, wish I had one.

What you will want is a standard 3 jaw drill chuck to fit the tailstock taper. You can fit your taps and drills in that. It really is essential to the machine so I would get one soonest.

Another good thing to have is a four jaw chuck which will allow you to swing square items, etc,

PS

The only advice I can give is don't try to run before you walk. Turning items down, facing off and drilling will cover 95% of the general stuff you need to do around a boat. Be very wary of cheap lathe tools, some are very, very poor and may lead to question your own ability when you are getting going.

 

[rotrax]

Here's a good book

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Amateurs-Lathe-Lawrence-H-Sparey/dp/0852422881

Exactly the one I was about to suggest.

I have a cheapo Clarke combined lathe mill, which replaced a totally worn out antique Boxford.

The quality is poor, but as I dont do-or intend to do- precision work, its fine.

The book is old, but very good.

It turned me from a mechanic into a mechanic who can make many unobtainable parts, and a mechanic who has saved a lot of money by making, modifying and saving components that otherwise may have been scrapped.

I would suggest a general purpose tool with replaceable tips, and a parting off tool with replaceable blades.

Good Luck.

 

[clyst]

Looks great, wish I had one.

What you will want is a standard 3 jaw drill chuck to fit the tailstock taper. You can fit your taps and drills in that. It really is essential to the machine so I would get one soonest.

Another good thing to have is a four jaw chuck which will allow you to swing square items, etc,

PS

The only advice I can give is don't try to run before you walk. Turning items down, facing off and drilling will cover 95% of the general stuff you need to do around a boat. Be very wary of cheap lathe tools, some are very, very poor and may lead to question your own ability when you are getting going.

I find the best place to buy quality lathe tools is from gov surplus stores they are relatively cheap and if it's good for the services it's good enough for me .

 

[Blueboatman]

This may sound like heresy but I kept my Myford on TOP of a wee garden shed for two years, well ouled, an oiled sheet over it and then the lathe plastic cover. it could ventilate from underneath.
Mind, this was a 'dry' London garden and no salt air, it sat on a solid lead topped plywood surface and would get morning sun...
May I suggest for you -deepest darkest SE England?- insulate the shed, fit a dehumififier or oil filled radiator , or, bei g small, just keep it in a oiled cloth I side a plastic bag, with silica gel or sommat, unless used every day?

 

[Boo2]

I've just bought a Mini Lathe, like this one: http://amzn.to/1sPJ4dR

It is currently sitting on my lounge floor while I consider how to protect it from damp in my shed. Looking outside this morning I'm glad I didn't put it straight in there.

Once the protective grease is removed, what would be best? GT85 perhaps http://amzn.to/1gjc450

Hi Nigel, congrats on the new purchase, you'll get loads of fun from that.

As for oiling, I use Slideway oil on the slides and general purpose oil in the oilers, both from Chronos on their lubricants page here : http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Oils.html

I have never used a lathe before, but I've got a few simple projects lined up. Any tips on good books for beginners?

"The Model Engineer's Workshop Manual" and "Workshop Techniques" both by G H Thomas are good see here :
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Model-Engin...&qid=1397297096&sr=8-3&keywords=george+thomas and here : http://www.amazon.co.uk/Workshop-Te...397297272&sr=1-1&keywords=workshop+techniques

Otherwise "Workholding in the Lathe" by Tubal Cain or any of the other Workshop Prcatices series are OK too : http://www.amazon.co.uk/Workholding...7409&sr=8-1&keywords=workholding+in+the+lathe

[Later] Just remembered, one job requires a tailstock tap adaptor, but it would seem more flexible to get a 4-jaw tailstock chuck. Do such things exist?

I've never heard of such a thing and my own experiences using cheapo tailstock tap holders have not been partucularly fruitfull. I have found it better to use a spring loaded centre in the tailstock and use that in the dimple at the back of the tap to hold the tap horizontal while turning the chuck by hand and holding the tap in a stock with my other hand. Sounds kludgy but works OK to start a thread parallel and then finish off by hand. Cheap tailstock tap/die holders tend to have high friction between the pin and the holder which can mess up the operation. Doing external threads I oftern screwcut to slightly oversize then form the thread and finally size using a die outside the lathe.

There are tap and die holders described in the GHT books above, dunno whether they are any good or not though...

Enjoy your new toy,

Boo2

 

[Sailingsaves]

Would a few of those solar vents in the roof ventilate enough to keep shed dry?

I know a boat I recently worked on was as dry as a bone inside and had been laid up for 3 years _ only ventilation was via a solar vent thing in fore hatch _ 24 foot boat.

As to using the lathe I don't know of any sources of info (except youtube maybe) but I am sure you would be well capable of just setting up and learning as you go _ I did and I know you are cleverer and more practical than I am.

 

[Graham_Wright]

[Later] Just remembered, one job requires a tailstock tap adaptor, but it would seem more flexible to get a 4-jaw tailstock chuck. Do such things exist?

Based on experience, when tapping, I have found a handy safety factor results from securing the tap in a tap holder or a chuck and using the tailstock centre to keep it on centre.

If it snatches or seizes, it will spin in your hand and save the job and the tap.

I am surrounded by lathes and we generally use a tap holder with a torque limiter but this on CNCs and automatics.

 

[Danbury]

Just leave it in the lounge ?? Maybe make a flat top for it... so you can pop your beer/remote control on it of an evening ?

 

[Norman_E]

With a small lathe there is often not enough distance between centres to use a tap adapter held in the drill chuck. The best method in such a case is just to grip the tap in the tailstock drill chuck, slide the whole tailstock up to the work and turn the chuck by hand. When the tap begins to turn in the chuck it is far enough in for alignment and you can remove the tailstock and finish cutting with a tap wrench.

The most useful thing to make as your first job on the lathe is a hand crank, as you must not attempt to tap under power. A hand crank is easy to make and on a small and low powered machine using one is a very good idea when screw cutting threads, especially if working up to a shoulder.

These photos show the one I made for use on my Myford and South Bend lathes. (shown fitted to the South Bend lathe) The handle fits into the bore of the mandrel and grips by being expanded by means of a tapered nut and a four way split inner end.

View attachment 41486View attachment 41487

 

[lw395]

With a small lathe there is often not enough distance between centres to use a tap adapter held in the drill chuck. The best method in such a case is just to grip the tap in the tailstock drill chuck, slide the whole tailstock up to the work and turn the chuck by hand. When the tap begins to turn in the chuck it is far enough in for alignment and you can remove the tailstock and finish cutting with a tap wrench.

The most useful thing to make as your first job on the lathe is a hand crank, as you must not attempt to tap under power. A hand crank is easy to make and on a small and low powered machine using one is a very good idea when screw cutting threads, especially if working up to a shoulder.

These photos show the one I made for use on my Myford and South Bend lathes. (shown fitted to the South Bend lathe) The handle fits into the bore of the mandrel and grips by being expanded by means of a tapered nut and a four way split inner end.

View attachment 41486View attachment 41487

+1.

My lathe is smaller than yours Nigel!
It's a little Toyo.
I find the best way to avoid rust is to use it often, and clean carefully if you've used water to cool anything.
Make it a weekly chore to wipe it over with a bit of oil.
I have a cheap mill too.
I run a dehumidifier when the weather is damp.
I have some carbide tools which I sharpen with a green stone wheel in a dremel. Seems to work, sharp tools seem to be key for stainless.

 

[Skylark]

I have never used a lathe before, but I've got a few simple projects lined up. Any tips on good books for beginners?

How about a 4 year craft apprenticeship?

If you find a good book, can you please check to see if they have anything on surgery. I've just bought a scalpel and fancy trying my hand....doesn't look that skilful and I'm sure they'll be no risks involved :encouragement:

 

[SHUG]

How about a 4 year craft apprenticeship?

If you find a good book, can you please check to see if they have anything on surgery. I've just bought a scalpel and fancy trying my hand....doesn't look that skilful and I'm sure they'll be no risks involved :encouragement:

Good move but try it out on yourself first!!

 

[superheat6k]

Nice acquisition, my second most used tool after my drill press.

Visit a nearby machine shop and ask them to show you the basics. Like sailing a dinghy and a superyacht - the basics are just the same.

Keep the tool sharp, for which you need an offhand grinder, and learn how to get the tool set as close to the centre line height as you can, and never above it. For most materials and assuming you will be working mostly at less than 50 mm diameter, a chuck speed of around 5-600 RPM works well.

Never ever leave the chuck key in - they can really fly. And no matter how brief the job, please always wear goggles.

Enjoy - lathe work is really satisfying.