Tranona
Well-Known Member
I rest my case. 15 minute job.
Suggest you relay this to Giblets - the OP, not to me.
The genoa track mounted cleat was the best solution on my boat - and I don't begrudge the cost!
Mid-ships cleat (or lack of)
- Thread starter Giblets
- Start date
Suggest you relay this to Giblets - the OP, not to me.
The genoa track mounted cleat was the best solution on my boat - and I don't begrudge the cost!
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Therein lies the rub!
If you don't feel the need for something, it has no value. If you have the need it is priceless!
(suggest also you look at the price of substantial cleats - not plastic ones - for substantial boats to put things in perspective).
Giblets
Well-Known Member
I rest my case. 15 minute job.
Thanks for the pic, Lakey.
Fancy a trip dan sarf wiv your tools? 
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
Battery drill. Plywood. Sikaflex. Spanner,
How difficult can it be?
How difficult can it be?
Seajet
...
I was referring to substantial cleats to go on substantial tracks and their price; think you'll find the pic and quote are Lakesailors' idea re plastic cleats.
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
Quite. The OP has a 17 ft boat that weighs a bit over 800KG. The material the cleat is made of is irrelevant. The pull is taken by the SS bolts. The cleat merely cushions the line around the bolts.
Plastic cleats will take far more load than the mooring lines can exert on a small boat such as this.
The GRP mounting point is part of a complex moulding with a gunwhale and coaming so the strength will be very high in that area.
Bolts with penny washers and the cleat bedded on Sikaflex will be more than a match for the horizontal loads a mooring line would exert.
A cleat on the track would exert more leverage as the mooring line would be raised from the fastening point at deck level.
Plastic cleats will take far more load than the mooring lines can exert on a small boat such as this.
The GRP mounting point is part of a complex moulding with a gunwhale and coaming so the strength will be very high in that area.
Bolts with penny washers and the cleat bedded on Sikaflex will be more than a match for the horizontal loads a mooring line would exert.
A cleat on the track would exert more leverage as the mooring line would be raised from the fastening point at deck level.
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Cross purposes here. Was not suggesting a comparison with the small nylon cleat. The material is rather irrelevant, but a basic Barton track cleat is about £32 and a similar size (150mm) alloy cleat is £29 - plus fastenings. There are cheaper ones - for example Chinese SS ones at about £15 plus fastenings.
Welcome to the world of £100k cruising boats and components commensurate with that price level.
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
Yes. There are very nice items available at a price. However £64 for a pair of track cleats for occasional use as opposed to £10 all in for cleats and fixings seems better value for a boat that is worth probably £1500 max.
cornell_b
Active Member
mid cleats
have them on all my boats, makes single hand docking easy and allows time to tie up properly. you might have to install inspection ports to mount them, but worth the effort.
have them on all my boats, makes single hand docking easy and allows time to tie up properly. you might have to install inspection ports to mount them, but worth the effort.
Seajet
...
Tranona,
I don't find the track cleats eye-wateringly expensive, just expensive to me as I don't feel the need for them !
I'm quite used to expensive kit; I have owned a 30' cruiser racer which was ex-Burnham Open winner with kit ( of the period, mid 80's ) to suit, my present 22 has almost all ball bearing kit inc all reefing, deck organisers etc, I'm sure you would smile if you knew how much I have spent on the boat, and no I'm not under any illusion I'd recover it in the unlikely event of selling !
You'd be even more amused with other kit and features; I get more fun out of trying new things and ideas on a basis I like, than keeping swapping boats, been there.
Andy
ianat182
Well-Known Member
SKATT's method is the one that I employ too,although I use a hard nylon eye at the mid position, bring the aft line into and through it. The bitter end forward has a spliced soft eye, large enough to drop over the main forward cleat. The sternline also has a spliced eye in one end for the stern cleat and the other end plain to allow for variations in the length and position of bowline. no strain on any lifelines or stanchions and easy to make.
ianat182
ianat182
Cardo
Well-Known Member
We had a look at these Barton cleats at SIBS. The 32mm track 205mm length aluminium cleats certainly looked the business. We've ordered a couple from MarineSuperstore. They were already the cheapest and we got a further 10% show discount. Bargain!
