warwicksail
Well-Known Member
Hi can anyone run through the procedure for removing the above impeller. will be a great help can find my manual anywhere.
Paul
Paul
Mercury 3.3 2stroke impeller removal
- Thread starter warwicksail
- Start date
MrCramp
Well-Known Member
I think it is the same as the 2.5 Mercury that I have got. You take out the split pin holding the propellor on and take the propellor off. Be careful as there should be a spare sheer pin clipped into the back of the propellor, if not that is where you keep one. Also watch you do not drop the sheer pin that is left on the shaft.
Undue to two bolts behind the propellor and the impellor should be revealed. Look to see if the housing is scoured as that will reduce the amout of water pumped.
Undue to two bolts behind the propellor and the impellor should be revealed. Look to see if the housing is scoured as that will reduce the amout of water pumped.
gandy
Well-Known Member
On the 3.3, the impeller's further up the drive train - so that it runs when the engine's not in gear and the propeller's not turning.
jwilson
Well-Known Member
Assuming it's the same as mine (2006 model)
Pull off a rubber cap on the side of the bottom of the drive leg and undo a screw that joins the two parts of the gear linkage. Undo two bolts and take off lower section of drive unit: another 4 bolts then become visible on a small casing over impeller. Undo and take out impeller and metal ring in which it runs. Dead easy so far.
There is a small keyway that drops out as you take off the casing over impeller. This must be back in place as you reassemble. Stick in place with grease or hold witha bit of string to get impeller case back on. Not too difficult.
Then comes the difficult bit - getting the lower drive leg back on. You have to line up the drive shaft and the join in the gear linkage AND the water feed pipe, and that is very, very awkward, especially with fat fingers, as you are working inside a small hole (that the rubber cap goes on) to line them up. I did this all a couple of weeks ago and after spending an hour trying took it to a local outboard shop expecting them to have a special tool or jig or something.
"It's just a bugger of a job" they said, "we curse every time. Fiddle with a bit of bent wire".
Pull off a rubber cap on the side of the bottom of the drive leg and undo a screw that joins the two parts of the gear linkage. Undo two bolts and take off lower section of drive unit: another 4 bolts then become visible on a small casing over impeller. Undo and take out impeller and metal ring in which it runs. Dead easy so far.
There is a small keyway that drops out as you take off the casing over impeller. This must be back in place as you reassemble. Stick in place with grease or hold witha bit of string to get impeller case back on. Not too difficult.
Then comes the difficult bit - getting the lower drive leg back on. You have to line up the drive shaft and the join in the gear linkage AND the water feed pipe, and that is very, very awkward, especially with fat fingers, as you are working inside a small hole (that the rubber cap goes on) to line them up. I did this all a couple of weeks ago and after spending an hour trying took it to a local outboard shop expecting them to have a special tool or jig or something.
"It's just a bugger of a job" they said, "we curse every time. Fiddle with a bit of bent wire".
Rcole
New Member
A hoot piece of wire and it was 5 minutes, a easy job
Rcole
New Member
I found it to be very easy with a hook on the end of a piece of wire
wynford brian
New Member
Quite right a bas'''d of a job. I used a piece of wire and a screwdriver with the end filed in a u shape to guide the water pipe into its hole. Great satisfaction when engine restarted with improved water flow. Yes Yes Yes!
Martin_J
Well-Known Member
If you do take the prop off and undo the two bolts behind the prop on the lower cover you will find it full of gearbox oil...
If you then pull the shaft out whilst it's still full of oil, then bits 35 and 36 will just drop off the end of the shaft and hide themselves in the oil..
Then when you put it back together (without realising they fell off the end of the shaft and stayed in the oil) you will find you have no neutral.
Guess how I know
If you then pull the shaft out whilst it's still full of oil, then bits 35 and 36 will just drop off the end of the shaft and hide themselves in the oil..
Then when you put it back together (without realising they fell off the end of the shaft and stayed in the oil) you will find you have no neutral.
Guess how I know
Martin_J
Well-Known Member
It's not too bad to put the lower gearbox back on if you take your time and hold the gear linkage up with a wire hook.
Diagrams here... if they're not the exact model then they're pretty close.
Mercury Marine 3.3 HP Gear Housing Assembly, 3.3 Horsepower Parts
Diagrams here... if they're not the exact model then they're pretty close.
Mercury Marine 3.3 HP Gear Housing Assembly, 3.3 Horsepower Parts
habberdabber
New Member
Do you have any cogent & insightful advice on how to jigger the 3 things at once with that dinky access opening to reassemble? I've been trying for hours, after replacing the impellor in my 3.3 HP , 2 stroke Mercury. (An early 2000's vintage, Tohatsu made, I believe.) I've tried all manner of wires, rods, hemostats, etc to get things aligned. I've even inverted the motor, upside down, to use some gravity to position things in place.
This is a puzzle piece of maintenance. No hurry, as it's winter, but still.....this winter project has gone awry. It's a good bit absurd. I've previously replaced impellors in a 5HP Honda, and that was a snap! Done.
This one is a contortionists test, working in the dark, without X-ray vision, to align 3 things at once, with only two hands, and only one finger for access to the components.
At this stage, any advice is much appreciated.
stay salty
This is a puzzle piece of maintenance. No hurry, as it's winter, but still.....this winter project has gone awry. It's a good bit absurd. I've previously replaced impellors in a 5HP Honda, and that was a snap! Done.
This one is a contortionists test, working in the dark, without X-ray vision, to align 3 things at once, with only two hands, and only one finger for access to the components.
At this stage, any advice is much appreciated.
stay salty
Attachments
habberdabber
New Member
Mercury 3.3HP, 2 stroke motor
I have reassembled! It took many tries, and attempts. I had zero issue in disassembly and impellor replacement. The devil is in reassembly.
What worked:
1. Removing the spark plug so I could turn the motor over easier to align the drive shaft into the splined housing.
2. Inverting the motor to align drive shaft and water pipe.
3. Laying the motor on its side and using that geometry to interconnect F/N shift linkages.
4. Using the thin, narrow steel pieces of metal removed from a windshield wiper blade to hold the water tube and shift linkage in place during reassembly.
They're easy enough to bend and cut and stiff enough to hold things in place. Copper wire wasn't. Other wire would likely work. I had some AL TIG welding
rod and that was too weak for holding.
Allah help anyone that decides to do this maintenance procedure. It's possible, but it's a total contortionist job.
I have reassembled! It took many tries, and attempts. I had zero issue in disassembly and impellor replacement. The devil is in reassembly.
What worked:
1. Removing the spark plug so I could turn the motor over easier to align the drive shaft into the splined housing.
2. Inverting the motor to align drive shaft and water pipe.
3. Laying the motor on its side and using that geometry to interconnect F/N shift linkages.
4. Using the thin, narrow steel pieces of metal removed from a windshield wiper blade to hold the water tube and shift linkage in place during reassembly.
They're easy enough to bend and cut and stiff enough to hold things in place. Copper wire wasn't. Other wire would likely work. I had some AL TIG welding
rod and that was too weak for holding.
Allah help anyone that decides to do this maintenance procedure. It's possible, but it's a total contortionist job.
