Mending Scratches

Quandary

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Our glossy white hull gelcoat got some long deepish scratches in one of the locks at Muirtown when one of the lock keepers misunderstood that I wanted my stern pulled in for a second to set the bow out and continued to hold it until the fender ran up over the top of the sandstone wall (lesson - fat round fenders ride up much sooner than cylindrical ones).
Just finished what I regard as an invisible repair so thought I would recount how it went.
Washed the hull with water and Flash, rinsed, degreased the area with a rag with some acetone rubbing well into the scratches, acetone dries almost instantly. Mixed some gelcoat filler, I am very lucky that the standard white in a tube is a good match. Applied with stiff plastic spatula squeezing hard over scratches, left it to go off for an hour. I put a nice new blade in my Bahco Pull Scraper and drawing it lightly and carefully across the scratches at about 45 degrees removed all the surplus new gelcoat filler from the area. It comes away in thin flakes like rice paper and does not scratch or dull the old surface and is also much faster than abrading. There was still a pinhole in one scratch and a slight surface depression made another deeper one still visible, so I applied gelcoat filler again and scraped off a second time. Because I had used the scraper without marking the gloss I did not need to use medium wet and dry but just polished the area lightly with 1200 grade used with plenty of soapy water. Dried off and then gave it a good rub with a rag with Farecla GRP compound, then a rub with another rag and Tcut. Finished off by rubbing it twice with 3M cleaner wax polish which is mildly abrasive.
Well chuffed, because while the boat is now over 5 years old it had not got scratched until this year and the gloss is still good (I wax it on lift out and before launching).
Using the very sharp hard blade to remove the surplus was an innovation but meant that avoiding rougher abrasives considerably reduced the amount of polishing needed to get the original gloss back, this was aided because the older gelcoat appeared to be much harder than the new stuff, however it might be much more difficult to do if dealing with a large deeply scuffed area rather than three parallel scratches. There is also no doubt that repairs are much easier on white hulls.
 
Yes,

I am not looking forward to de-scratching my 30-year old turquoise hull - it's almost impossible to get a match for the gel coat!

Our glossy white hull gelcoat got some long deepish scratches in one of the locks at Muirtown when one of the lock keepers misunderstood that I wanted my stern pulled in for a second to set the bow out and continued to hold it until the fender ran up over the top of the sandstone wall (lesson - fat round fenders ride up much sooner than cylindrical ones).
Just finished what I regard as an invisible repair so thought I would recount how it went.
Washed the hull with water and Flash, rinsed, degreased the area with a rag with some acetone rubbing well into the scratches, acetone dries almost instantly. Mixed some gelcoat filler, I am very lucky that the standard white in a tube is a good match. Applied with stiff plastic spatula squeezing hard over scratches, left it to go off for an hour. I put a nice new blade in my Bahco Pull Scraper and drawing it lightly and carefully across the scratches at about 45 degrees removed all the surplus new gelcoat filler from the area. It comes away in thin flakes like rice paper and does not scratch or dull the old surface and is also much faster than abrading. There was still a pinhole in one scratch and a slight surface depression made another deeper one still visible, so I applied gelcoat filler again and scraped off a second time. Because I had used the scraper without marking the gloss I did not need to use medium wet and dry but just polished the area lightly with 1200 grade used with plenty of soapy water. Dried off and then gave it a good rub with a rag with Farecla GRP compound, then a rub with another rag and Tcut. Finished off by rubbing it twice with 3M cleaner wax polish which is mildly abrasive.
Well chuffed, because while the boat is now over 5 years old it had not got scratched until this year and the gloss is still good (I wax it on lift out and before launching).
Using the very sharp hard blade to remove the surplus was an innovation but meant that avoiding rougher abrasives considerably reduced the amount of polishing needed to get the original gloss back, this was aided because the older gelcoat appeared to be much harder than the new stuff, however it might be much more difficult to do if dealing with a large deeply scuffed area rather than three parallel scratches. There is also no doubt that repairs are much easier on white hulls.
 
Apparently, the way to match gel coat is to mix it with pigments without the hardener (keeping a note of what proportions are used) until you get an acceptable match. Then mix the same proportions of white and pigments add the hardener and slap it on. Not as easy as it sounds as 'white' usually contains traces of yellow, red, blue and green. Perhaps the assistance of an artist friend would help.
Turquiose should be (relatively) easy.
 
I have a Bene which is in their standard white - I have the shade number somewhere.

The Plastic Padding gel coat filler doesn't quite match - where should i try to get a matching one?

Beneteau dealer or maybe look on Beneteau forum (if there is one) for amount of tints required.
 
You can adjust the tint of white gelcoat filler, it is a very bright white but does fade slightly overnight and then over the next 6 months so worth taking account of that.
If you decide you might want a slightly yellower white - stick a foot of ordinary masking tape on a clean part of the hull where there is plenty of light, you might want to revive the hull colour with a bit of compunding. Mix a smidgin and dab on quite thick about the size of a half crown (remember them) Mix another wee bit using a separate palette (plastic ice cream tub lids are good) and a clean spatula or putty knife but this time use filler hardener, the yellow stuff you get with tubes of ordinary filler, you will have some in your toolbox; but do not use too much, it will go off with very little and the modification you need is very slight. Apply beside the first making a mental note of the proportions. Leave both overnight and then decide which is closest. Using that information mix again using more or less yellow accelerator in the mix, if you need a lot more you have a Hanse and this is not going to work, you are going to have to get some gel coat tint before making more test blobs. Do not leave the tape on too long, you need to use the neutral tinted stuff as the long life tape is dark blue and distorts the comparison.
 

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