Med coast of Morocco

[Amphitrite]

Hi, I am looking for some sailing information on the mediterranean coast of Morocco. I have sailed the Atlantic coast of Morocco last year and was really fascinated. Now I am thinking about exploring the Med coast, but cannot find much information except on Marina Smir. Any feedback welcome, esp. on ports to be visited or avoided. What about the Spanish enclave of Melilla?

Thanks, Holger

 

[Sea Devil]

Hi,

I cruised all the Med Moroccan coast a few years ago including Melilla - had a great time - mainly little fishing villages but welcoming if lots of 'officials' and paper work. Melilla was good and in fact left the boat there for a couple of weeks whilst I went back to London...

 

[Amphitrite]

Hi Michael,

that sounds good. I don't mind some paperwork with the officials, on the Atlantic coast it took sometimes up to four hours, but they were all very friendly (my french is quite fluent...). What ports can you recommend, Al Hoceima, Ras El Ma, El Jebha, Cala Iris?

Thanks, Holger

 

[Sea Devil]

Holcer it was a few years ago - certainly remember Al Hoceima - then sort of cruised along till Mellilla.... Really small fishing villages and little towns... I think I would just follow a fishing boat in then tie up somewhere and get into the paper work! remember it all as being an excellent experience.

 

[webcraft]

Atlantic coast of Morocco

Hi Holger,


What is the best source of up to date info on the Atlantic coast of Morocco, and do you have any particular hints or tips? We may be down that way next year.

- Nick

 

[Amphitrite]

Re: Atlantic coast of Morocco

The only pilot book worth looking into is the North Africa Pilot published by Imray. If you sent me your contact details I can send you my eperiences by mail....

However, I can heartily recommend going via Morocco as it was the best part of our trip from Mallorca to Teneriffe.

Holger

 

[Grehan]

Re: Atlantic coast of Morocco

Not from personal experience, but . . .

A few weeks ago a boat berthed in Marbella that had just returned from the Canaries via Atlantic Morocco. They had had an absolutely awful time, with the weather, adverse currents, heavy seas, harbours (sic), officials (corruption), the navy (intimidation), extreme poverty, constant begging, etc. Pretty experienced people, too - not the sort intentionally or by accident to create problems unecessarily. They were also scathing about the Imray (?) RCC (?) pilot book and reckoned the authors had never been in some of the places described.

How does this square with the positive comments elsewhere in this thread?
Any comments?

 

[Amphitrite]

Re: Atlantic coast of Morocco

Hi Grehan,

though we had some really bad weather with heavy swell (that has however nothing to do with Morocco, its just part of sailing on the Atlantic, esp. when sailing against the prevailing northeasterlies in summer as your neighbours did) I had positive experiences in Morocco: Only one official asked for bakshish (and happily went away with two bottles of wine), all others were correct and most were friendly too. Took me around in their cars to get paperwork done more quickly, offered advice and chatted about personal things... The navy did not get in my way at all, but we did not hassle them either.
And the RCC pilot book is quite good and, although sometimes it is not up-to-date, a very good companion...
Extreme poverty exists around Casablanca, but begging for alms and donating alms is part of the islamic religion. However, we were only asked for money near the train station in Casablanca (as it would have happened in Berlin too) and never in Safi or Mohammedia....

I also saw other boats who really struggled with the same officials with which I found it very easy to deal with. But those crews did everything to annoy them: Talking openly about bakshish on the VHF, not flying a courtesy flag, not willing to pay a little bakshsih if necessary, not being able to wait until paperwork was done, not willing to answer questions etc, not respecting local culture.....!

So I think one has to check himself carefully before setting sail for Morocco: Do I speak some french (or arabic), am I willing to adjust to their ways of handling things, am I willing to moor in commercial/fishing harbours instead of posh marinas and am I prepared to sail into a port not described in 4 pilot books?
If all these questions can be answered positive, Morocco will be a delightful experience!

Best regards,
Holger