Mecury 8hp 2 stroke. Where does this bit go.

[davidpbo]

1989 vintage.
There is a wire link that goes between a black plastic lever attached to the carburetor which forms part of the cold start/idle adjust mechanism.i think it increases the revs. Unfortunately it has come off at the end under the flywheel. I am on boat. Because we have done refurb inside my workshop manual is not on board. Does anyone have a diagram oe picture or description showing where said part goes at flywheel end. I am working upside down with a mirror.

This is the wire link I am talking about.

I think it goes here but don't think it is seating properly.

If you could pm them to me as well as post on here I would appreciate it.

The engine is in a well, I have a torn left shoulder ligament , poorly right arm and back so am reluctant to lift out. I have blocks etc and am used to using them. The question is not about getting the engine out. I will reluctantly do that if I have to.

Also does anyone know if the fast slow label bezel had any function other than as a guide or label? Tis on bottom of Lake. I think not.

TIA

David.

 

[sailorman]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_xFQwtvtj8

 

[VicS]

sailormans video is of a 4 stroke so probably a different carb.

various carbs fitted .. difficult to figure out which one without the serial number

I think this link is the "idle wire" As you say for increasing the idle speed when choking.

Runs from the primer/choke assembly to a lever on the throttle butterfly shaft I think.

Not very helpful but #27 in this diagram

 

[davidpbo]

Thanks Vic but as you say doesn't show where it goes.

 

[SheldonP]

that linkage should pass through the yellow block in the photo, which is the timing advance ring, but not clip into it, as the ring must be able to move freely without the linkage moving. the linkage has a bent end that should move the yellow block when the throttle is in the idle position and the priming knob pulled. as the throttle is advanced, the timing ring should move without moving this linkage (there is another that is linked to the throttle, the black plastic bar with ball joint ends!) The other end should clip into the black plastic lever attached to the priming knob shown in the first picture. I will search around for a better diagram ASAP

 

[James_Calvert]

David,

Just had a look at my Mercury 6 2 stroke which has a similar arrangement. Taken a couple of pics, but actually yours showing where you thought it should be will suffice.

You've got it very nearly in the right position, but on mine, from a pic taken from exactly the same angle, the L shape on the end of the wire is visible and vertical, pointing upwards. I think that means it needs threading right through the fitment before snapping it upwards into place, rather than part way, as seems to be the case from your pic.

James

 

[TSB240]

Picture taken

 

[davidpbo]

David,

Just had a look at my Mercury 6 2 stroke which has a similar arrangement. Taken a couple of pics, but actually yours showing where you thought it should be will suffice.

You've got it very nearly in the right position, but on mine, from a pic taken from exactly the same angle, the L shape on the end of the wire is visible and vertical, pointing upwards. I think that means it needs threading right through the fitment before snapping it upwards into place, rather than part way, as seems to be the case from your pic.

James

Picture taken

Thank you for the trouble you took folks much appreciated. That was exactly what I was hoping for.

My problem is that I can't get the end of the wire through the slot to turn it up. It is very nearly there, any wiggle guidance notes appreciated.

I suspect it is one of those things like the reefing hooks on my boom. Could not for the life of me describe how I fit it sometimes it goes sometimes it doesn't but you can guarantee it will fall out over water when derigging the mast.

 

[James_Calvert]

My problem is that I can't get the end of the wire through the slot to turn it up. It is very nearly there, any wiggle guidance notes appreciated.

I'm not going to try this on mine for obvious reasons, but is it possible/ easier to take the other end off and introduce the wire into the slot from the other side?

 

[davidpbo]

Managed to do it easily in situ with the help i got thanks, and got engine started Ok at last. However the engine still can cut out sometimes after running at high revs then going to neutral& tickover. Is this likely to be mixture.

Also how does air get under the cowl of the outboard. Only a few non specific holes in the top of the leg that I can see.

 

[VicS]

Managed to do it easily in situ with the help i got thanks, and got engine started Ok at last. However the engine still can cut out sometimes after running at high revs then going to neutral& tickover. Is this likely to be mixture.

Also how does air get under the cowl of the outboard. Only a few non specific holes in the top of the leg that I can see.

A had a Volvo penta outboard that cut out like that. Never solved it. I intended to experiement with different heat rated plugs but never did. I found it was Ok if I slowed down progressively.
When it cut out it was always due to a fouled plug


Is there a hand hold built into cowl ..... thats where the air gets in to my Evinrude, there's an air intake grille hidden in there.

 

[davidpbo]

Sooo....

In an attempt to stop the engine cutting out going from revs to neutral I put a slight kink in the wire I was seeking assistance with.

In so doing I must have disturbed something as it would no longer go into reverse. I thought it was something I had done but it transpired that the cam at the top of the gearchange actuator rod was not properly engaged which was maybe why I had difficulty finding neutral before.