Mechanical Vs Electric lift pump

My raw pump is so difficult to remove I could never do it at sea. If it packed up I'd have to resort to sailing!
charles_reed said:
Probably an unnecessary addition but I'd tend to have the backup of the electric pump and leave the mechanical. In 30 years and 3 engines I've never has a lift-pump go... there's a first time for everything.
Much more urgent and certain to fail - spare raw water pump and alternator.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
prv said:
Really? What god-awful engine design is that?

(Or is this a cunning reference to the fact you have an outboard? :))

Pete
Click to expand...

You may well find your Volvo pump is in that category if it is anything like the earlier 2030 - would not like to remove that at sea!
 
Tranona said:
You may well find your Volvo pump is in that category if it is anything like the earlier 2030 - would not like to remove that at sea!
Click to expand...

Errm, nope? It uses paper gaskets which are inferior to the captive O-ring on Kindred Spirit's Yanmar, and the cover plate screws are a bit fiddly (KS had been retro-fitted with nice knurled-head ones by a previous owner) but other than that it's a completely standard impeller pump.

The parts diagram of the 2030 raw water pump doesn't look especially evil either.

Pete
 
I think the last vehicle I owned with an electric fuel pump was a Triumph TR5a with Tecalmit(Sp?) mechanical fuel injection, but that delivered more than 100 psi. Before that a 1960 Land Rover. Since then I have owned several vehicles that had done well over 100,000 miles and worked on many more. All had mechanical fuel pumps and none had ever failed.
 
I had an electric pump in my moggie minor - it used to stick sometimes and require a sharp clout with a heavy object (usually a shoe) when it would tick rapidly for a while. IMO anyone who proposes swapping over to one of those is deranged.
vyv_cox said:
I think the last vehicle I owned with an electric fuel pump was a Triumph TR5a with Tecalmit(Sp?) mechanical fuel injection, but that delivered more than 100 psi. Before that a 1960 Land Rover. Since then I have owned several vehicles that had done well over 100,000 miles and worked on many more. All had mechanical fuel pumps and none had ever failed.
Click to expand...
 
ghostlymoron said:
I had an electric pump in my moggie minor - it used to stick sometimes and require a sharp clout with a heavy object (usually a shoe) when it would tick rapidly for a while. IMO anyone who proposes swapping over to one of those is deranged.
Click to expand...

The one in the Land Rover did the same. Maybe the design has improved a bit in 50 years but, like you, I still wouldn't have one.
 
vyv_cox said:
The one in the Land Rover did the same. Maybe the design has improved a bit in 50 years but, like you, I still wouldn't have one.
Click to expand...

Those on the morris minor wrer the SU pump were made with the points not sealed and thus open to dirt and water. I have the same on my MGB but I fitted it inside the boot that reduces the problem.

The ones used now as sold on E-Bay and others are totally sealed.

I fitted one of these newer type on each of my 3 tanks for easy priming. I stall have the mechanical pump on my engine as it works OK so why change it. If it was in a position that made it difficult to service that would be different. I have a similar issue with my lubrication oil filter and considering fitting a remote filter for ease of surface.

Like there http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/universal-electric-fuel-pump
 
vyv_cox said:
The one in the Land Rover did the same. Maybe the design has improved a bit in 50 years but, like you, I still wouldn't have one.
Click to expand...

My 2006 Freelander has an electric fuel pump, fitted in the rear wheel-arch of all places. It too has required a thump to get it going on one occasion :)

Pete
 
ghostlymoron said:
I had an electric pump in my moggie minor - it used to stick sometimes and require a sharp clout with a heavy object (usually a shoe) when it would tick rapidly for a while. IMO anyone who proposes swapping over to one of those is deranged.
Click to expand...

Things have moved on since the pump you describe and since fuel injection became the norm most modern cars have electric pumps, many built into the fuel tank The Facet solid state pumps used on boat engines have been used on cars for decades and even some aircraft engines.
 
Here's a pic of my water pump

IMGP0035_zps5dc7c6f7.jpg


Access is from a small hatch in the cockpit floor or by crawling through the heads and reaching round the back of the engine. The linkage to the gearbox prevents me from getting a normal screwdriver on the coverplate screws but a 'stubby' will get it but you can't put much force on it. The shape of the casing makes it impossible to get a socket on the bolts holding it to the engine and I can only get an open ended spanner on them at an angle. It seems impossible to apply enough force to shift the as I am hampered by the gearbox linkage and the throttle cable. Grrrrrrrrrrr

prv said:
Really? What god-awful engine design is that?

(Or is this a cunning reference to the fact you have an outboard? :))

Pete
Click to expand...
 
ghostlymoron said:
Here's a pic of my water pump
Click to expand...

I see what you mean! What genius decided to put the pump on the back of the engine?!?

(Would actually work ok on our boat as the main engine-bay access is now from the side (I built a new bulkhead with big wide-opening lift-off doors) but that's quite unusual, most designs assume the engine will be serviced from the front.)

Would it perhaps be worth getting some knurled-head screws so that at least you don't have the faff with the screwdriver? One of Kindred Spirit's previous owners had done this and it did make life easier.

images


Pete
 
Last edited:
prv said:
Would it perhaps be worth getting some knurled-head screws so that at least you don't have the faff with the screwdriver? One of Kindred Spirit's previous owners had done this and it did make life easier.
Click to expand...

Easily obtainable as spare parts from Speedseal.
 
On my Beta 35 the manual states that the mechanical fuel pump can lift 300mm and with my keel tank requires a lift of 1000mm when fuel is low. The manual pump coped ok when running but was a pain to bleed after changing filters taking forever to get fuel up.
Beta advised to fit a facet electric pump between the tank and the mechanical pump thereby getting the best of both and works great
 
I have considered this (see recent thread) and will probably go ahead but 2 things concern me. Are they the correct thread - UNF , and will they compress the paper gasket enough? Speeds don't do a cover for my pump so they May not make appropriate screws. Will stop now thread hijacked enough!
pvb said:
Easily obtainable as spare parts from Speedseal.
Click to expand...
 
I've used both - even an ex-Mini electric pump (the type which requires a tap from a hammer handle to start it). Based on experience, the mechanical types were the more reliable, but only because the electrical ones didn't like being laid up for any length of time. Always had to strip and clean the contacts at the start of the season. My guess is that there is little to choose between them if talking modern designs and as others have said, the electric pump does make bleeding a doddle. So if expense is not an issue, a new mechanical pump for freedom from electrical dependence and a modern electric one in-line for bleeding and emergency use would be as near ideal as you'll get!

Rob.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top