MD11C - sorry

[Swanrad2]

During the refit, we are struggling to separate one of the studs between the exhaust elbow and the manifold. The part is discontinued I believe, leaves me with winging it - anyone got any ideas as to the spec of these parts and a supplier?

Cheers,

T

 

[VicS]

During the refit, we are struggling to separate one of the studs between the exhaust elbow and the manifold. The part is discontinued I believe, leaves me with winging it - anyone got any ideas as to the spec of these parts and a supplier?

Cheers,

T

Why do you need to separate these parts?
The exhaust elbow seems to be available
An alternative manifold seems to be availble, but at price which would go a long way towards a new engine.

 

[Swanrad2]

I need to separate them as although the elbow is available (and I will be buying one) the stud is not. If it cannot be separated it is stuck behind the part of the casting that accepts the water.

 

[KellysEye]

> If it cannot be separated it is stuck behind the part of the casting that accepts the water.

Is it possible to drill it out and then use a thread cutter?

 

[Bilgediver]

I need to separate them as although the elbow is available (and I will be buying one) the stud is not. If it cannot be separated it is stuck behind the part of the casting that accepts the water.

What is so special....On my MD 2B these are bog standard studs. Even a bit of marina stud bar would do. Probably 10MM. Can you not just clean the threads with a die????

 

[Swanrad2]

Normally I would do exactly that, but getting anything wrong with this engine can be an expensive mistake - I am being very, very careful!

 

[VicS]

I need to separate them as although the elbow is available (and I will be buying one) the stud is not. If it cannot be separated it is stuck behind the part of the casting that accepts the water.

I think I understand now. You want to remove the elbow from the manifold so that you can renew it ?

You are having difficulty removing the nuts from the studs ?

You have tried heating the nuts and soaking in a penetrating oil, tapping with a hammer?

Nut splitter ? ... no good ... cant get a nut splitter on them ?


Drastic action might be to cut the nut and stud with hacksaw or angle grinder ...... But then you still have to remove the remains of the studs from the manifold.


Studs are available pt number 924081 ( at 5.55 EUR ) and nuts 971071, but you'll be able to get suitable studs and nuts easily from an engineering suppliers

 

[dylanwinter]

I think I understand now. You want to remove the elbow from the manifold so that you can renew it ?

You are having difficulty removing the nuts from the studs ?

You have tried heating the nut and soaking in a penetrating oil, tapping with a hammer

Nut splitter ? ... no good ... cant get a nut splitter on them ?


Drastic action might be to cut the nut and stud with hacksaw or angle grinder ...... But then you still have to remove the remains of the studs from the manifold.


Studs are available pt number 924081 ( at 5.55 EUR ) and nuts 971071, but you'll be able to get suitable studs and nuts easily from an engineering suppliers

Vic

you are one astonishing man

I am full of admiration for you

I have never met you but bless you for being on this forum

Dylan

 

[VicS]

Vic

you are one astonishing man

I am full of admiration for you

I have bnever met you but bless you for beintg on this forum

Dylan

Just know this engine ...... rather too well considering my experiences are with a friend's.

We rebuilt it a good few years ago after a valve dropped. Rebuilding was the right decision at the time I am sure .... at least it outlasted the owner!

I would not now consider rebuilding one, or any other this old. I personally think the OP should have put the money he will spend towards a new engine ... A Beta for example, not another VP.

 

[Swanrad2]

Thanks - I tend to agree, but its a bit like sledging....once you push off you have to keep on going!

I couldn't find the of number so I am going to use some stud bar (if the oil bath doesn't loosen the stud) will this be stainless stud?

Cheers - T

 

[GrahamM376]

Just find a steel bolt which fits and cut the head off, clean the end up with a file and you have a new stud.

 

[VicS]

Just find a steel bolt which fits and cut the head off, clean the end up with a file and you have a new stud.

You'd need to cut a thread on the end of the un-threaded shank except that metric bolts tend to have rolled threads rather than screw cut threads with the result that the shank will be undersize.

You could simply cut the head off a set screw I suppose.

 

[Swanrad2]

You'd need to cut a thread on the end of the un-threaded shank except that metric bolts tend to have rolled threads rather than screw cut threads with the result that the shank will be undersize.

You could simply cut the head off a set screw I suppose.

I can get a length of 10mm threaded stud bar for a fiver. It can be either stainless or mild steel with zinc coating, as it will be going into a cast iron engine block - any problems with either?

 

[Jcorstorphine]

If using stainless, i would use some copper slip, in fact I would use copper slip on MS as well if it gets hot.

 

[GrahamM376]

If using stainless, i would use some copper slip, in fact I would use copper slip on MS as well if it gets hot.

I've often wondered whether using copper slip between stainless and ferrous could cause galvanic problems. Any thoughts on this?

 

[Swanrad2]

I've often wondered whether using copper slip between stainless and ferrous could cause galvanic problems. Any thoughts on this?

It was possible galvanic issues between stainless and engine block that prompted my question. To my eternal shame I have never really understood galvanic corrosion, despite my Dad being an early innovator in the field of electrolysis which he tries to explain is somehow related. This is why I have no shore power for the occasions i stay in Marinas, as someone once told me - no plug, very little chance of a problem.

 

[Swanrad2]

Progress continues to be made - all spares now purchased (an eye watering £800 and it is still not running).

The handle came off the water intake sea cock (the one attached to the strainer, so that will no doubt be another gazillion pounds) so will probably need to replace the skin fitting and a new fangled sea water strainer, maybe a vetus product subject to getting the hose diameters to work.

The neutral selector button on the inside of the throttle control is stuck in (at least it is stuck in neutral so we can run it up) - anyone worked on these and know how to fix them at all?

Thorough cleaning and external inspection of the rest of the engine seems OK so far. Heads back on and trial start next weekend. In case she starts and won't stop (heard a nasty story last weekend), is the best way to stop a diesel when the stop mechanism on the governed wont work - turning the diesel tap off or cracking off the injectors?

 

[vyv_cox]

Thorough cleaning and external inspection of the rest of the engine seems OK so far. Heads back on and trial start next weekend. In case she starts and won't stop (heard a nasty story last weekend), is the best way to stop a diesel when the stop mechanism on the governed wont work - turning the diesel tap off or cracking off the injectors?

Prepare a piece of plywood or similar and have it ready. If the engine runs away or won't stop by conventional means slap the plywood over the air inlet on the filter. Guaranteed to stop it.

There seems to be a lot of confusion over mixing metals. Unless both are immersed in water there is absolutely no chance of galvanic corrosion. Studs seizing in exhaust manifolds are due to the oxidation that occurs at high temperatures. Copperslip is very beneficial in these circumstances.

 

[pampas]

I've often wondered whether using copper slip between stainless and ferrous could cause galvanic problems. Any thoughts on this?[/QUOTE

As far as I am aware,Aluminium is the only metal its recommend NOT to use Copper Slip/Ease on. I may be wrong and stand to be corrected.

 

[VicS]

Prepare a piece of plywood or similar and have it ready. If the engine runs away or won't stop by conventional means slap the plywood over the air inlet on the filter. Guaranteed to stop it.

Difficulty with the MD11C is that there are two separate "frying pan" air intake filters. The rear one has the crankcase breather "connected" to it.

So be prepared to block both and maybe the connection for the breather, which IIRC, is just a hole in the frying pan with a hose poked into it.

And with an exposed flywheel whizzing round between you and the air filters lets hope it does not come to that .