[2068]
...
We started off from Royal Clarence Marina, and did wonder about some of the other boats that were coming with us. Wasn't there supposed to be an air draught restriction? Anyway, it turns out that this was the sponsor's boat: exactly how much such success they had trying to sell Maritimos to Broom owners is unknown.
I think this crew had other ideas.
Sometimes you need an early start.
Neale definitely likes early starts.
Did I mention it was quite early?
The advantage is that it's often the best time for a channel crossing in terms of sea state, if not crew state.
Predictably, some boats maintained a rather higher "cruising" speed than others. I believe their teacups were bolted down inside the lockers.
Five hours of bouncing along, followed by a minor mistake going to the South of the channel on the Le Havre approach (lots more space to the North!), and we were in Honfleur.
The touristy part overlooking the quayside was heaving, but you don't have to wander too far to escape. We found the beach around the corner, which is wide and sandy, with a swimming area in the middle. Swimming in the closest part would probably mean getting sucked along the rocky wall then getting run over by a large tanker, which could spoil your day.
Being rafted out in the outside harbour meant that there was a fair hike to the "facilities", once you had identified them. Even finding the capitainerie was akin to locating Platform 9 and a half: after I had paid, I was fully expecting the surrounding shops to move together and for it to disappear entirely.
The tidal part of the Seine is very different to the upper sections. The tidal stream can be 3-4kts, which is good when it's with you. Once clear of Le Havre, it's much less industrial than I imagined. Hills, small towns, houses, all roll past. You pretty much have to do the stretch to Rouen in 1 day, as there isn't anywhere sensible in-between to stop, and you aren't allowed to travel at night.
Moored up at Rouen: the end of a long day, and too tired to explore much.
A good sleep, and a change of helm. The landscape becomes softer, and more willowy.
Then, the first lock.
Gulp.
The first one (Amfreville) is one of the largest.
It's designed for large commercial barges, not piddly plastic Sealine S28's
The sides of the lock are covered in "lock goo", which gets everywhere. Finding something to attach lines to is a challenge: having two lines each at the stern and the bow makes things easier as you can keep one attached lower down whilst trying to get a higher one secure.
After a bit of lock stress, we needed another change of helm.
The countryside continued to roll past. We stopped again at "Vernon", where a helpful liveaboard provided advice and a bit of history.
Next stop was a small yacht club. We were directed to moor on the ramp.
"Watch your depth" says Neale as we approach.
"It says zero", I reply.
Depth sounding afterwards with a boathook revealed 5ft at the stern, 3ft amidships, and about 18 inches underneath the bow. Plenty!
On the briefing before "Paris" day, Neale says:
"Small lock at the other end, so everyone: take your time. Spread out. Enjoy the scenery. No point all getting there together. Relax"
What actually happens the following morning is of course something approximating the Charge of the Light Brigade.
It's hard to describe seeing La Tour Eiffel get bigger as you approach, having got there under your own steam.
Some narrow bridges to negotiate around the side of Notre Dame, and tour boats to avoid on the approach to Arsenal marina.
Locking everyone through took 2-3 hours, but finally it was time for the helmsman to take a break and enjoy a well deserved drink.
Part II to follow.
dv.
I think this crew had other ideas.
Sometimes you need an early start.
Neale definitely likes early starts.
Did I mention it was quite early?
The advantage is that it's often the best time for a channel crossing in terms of sea state, if not crew state.
Predictably, some boats maintained a rather higher "cruising" speed than others. I believe their teacups were bolted down inside the lockers.
Five hours of bouncing along, followed by a minor mistake going to the South of the channel on the Le Havre approach (lots more space to the North!), and we were in Honfleur.
The touristy part overlooking the quayside was heaving, but you don't have to wander too far to escape. We found the beach around the corner, which is wide and sandy, with a swimming area in the middle. Swimming in the closest part would probably mean getting sucked along the rocky wall then getting run over by a large tanker, which could spoil your day.
Being rafted out in the outside harbour meant that there was a fair hike to the "facilities", once you had identified them. Even finding the capitainerie was akin to locating Platform 9 and a half: after I had paid, I was fully expecting the surrounding shops to move together and for it to disappear entirely.
The tidal part of the Seine is very different to the upper sections. The tidal stream can be 3-4kts, which is good when it's with you. Once clear of Le Havre, it's much less industrial than I imagined. Hills, small towns, houses, all roll past. You pretty much have to do the stretch to Rouen in 1 day, as there isn't anywhere sensible in-between to stop, and you aren't allowed to travel at night.
Moored up at Rouen: the end of a long day, and too tired to explore much.
A good sleep, and a change of helm. The landscape becomes softer, and more willowy.
Then, the first lock.
Gulp.
The first one (Amfreville) is one of the largest.
It's designed for large commercial barges, not piddly plastic Sealine S28's
The sides of the lock are covered in "lock goo", which gets everywhere. Finding something to attach lines to is a challenge: having two lines each at the stern and the bow makes things easier as you can keep one attached lower down whilst trying to get a higher one secure.
After a bit of lock stress, we needed another change of helm.
The countryside continued to roll past. We stopped again at "Vernon", where a helpful liveaboard provided advice and a bit of history.
Next stop was a small yacht club. We were directed to moor on the ramp.
"Watch your depth" says Neale as we approach.
"It says zero", I reply.
Depth sounding afterwards with a boathook revealed 5ft at the stern, 3ft amidships, and about 18 inches underneath the bow. Plenty!
On the briefing before "Paris" day, Neale says:
"Small lock at the other end, so everyone: take your time. Spread out. Enjoy the scenery. No point all getting there together. Relax"
What actually happens the following morning is of course something approximating the Charge of the Light Brigade.
It's hard to describe seeing La Tour Eiffel get bigger as you approach, having got there under your own steam.
Some narrow bridges to negotiate around the side of Notre Dame, and tour boats to avoid on the approach to Arsenal marina.
Locking everyone through took 2-3 hours, but finally it was time for the helmsman to take a break and enjoy a well deserved drink.
Part II to follow.
dv.
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