Mathmatically challenged dead-to-windward question

Twister_Ken

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Please bear with me on this - just scraped through O'level maths (for the younger generation, that's what GCSEs used to be called before decimilisation and devaluation). My curiosity was raised by the question of how windward performance could be improved by forestay tension.

We want to sail dead to windward from A to B, for 10nm. Our noble vessel will sail at 45 degs to the true wind, and for the sake of argument, makes no leeway.

We set off on stbd tack, and at the halfway point (C) we tack through 90 degrees and continue on that tack until reaching B. Our track and the desired course make a triangle ABC, where AB is 10nm, and the legs AC and CB are equal, each - according to Pythagoras (the square of the hypotenuse of a right triangle is equal to the sum of the squares of the two adjacent sides) - of 7.07 nm.

We therefore need to sail 14 miles through the water to cover a 10 mile course.

If we assume we tweak the forestay and trim the sails in such a way that we can now sail at 40 degrees to the true wind, our triangle ABC is no longer a right triangle, as we can tack through 80 degress, and has shorter legs AC and CB. We need to resort to sines, etc (Mnemonic = See Old Harry Catch A Herring Trawling Off America). Using cosine 40, I get each leg of the new beat to be 6.53 nm, meaning our distance through the water is decreased by approximately one mile.

Assuming the noble vessel trogs along to windward at 5 kts, then we arrive at B 12 minutes earlier than in our untuned state.

Applied to a distance of 63 miles (Needles-Cherbourg) the tighter forestay will get us there roughly 1h 15m earlier, time to get a table in the Café de Paris before cookie goes home for the night.

Have I got that right?
 
If your assumption is correct - i.e. a tighter luff lets you sail at the same speed but point higher - then your calculations look correct. In reality the improved headsail set will affect both tacking angle and speed but who can say by how much.
 
If you want to see it for real, use a GPS set to read VMG COG etc
Worth trying to work it out yourself first though.
 
Figures look ok.

It easier to work out if you forget about tacking half way, just base the calculation on making 63 miles to windward it saves the mental gymnastics with angles etc.

i.e

63/cos45= 89.1 (45 deg to wind)
63/cos50=82.2 (40 deg to wind)

diff = 89.1 - 82.2 = 6.9

time saved = 6.9/5 = 1.38 = 01h 22m

Time for a wee goldie as well /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Ken, my last did 5.6 knots at 26 degrees Apparent iwith 17 knots across the deck. Where does that leave me? Back of the fleet as usual I s'pose . . .
 
Regardless of the arithmetic, if you tune your rig to be able to point higher you will probably also make it more critical to pointing angle. In other words you will gain if, and only if, the helm can concentrate hard. On a shorthanded night crossing you may be better off tuning/trimming for a more forgiving setup.
 
Might be worth noting the polars for your boat over the coming months. Then a simple spreadsheet could calculate optimum wind angle. Otherwise you could get a gizzmo that calculates VMG and lets you know if you are sailing the boat suboptimally. Finally make sure that your calculations are based on true wind angle not apparent or you might be in one of those dreadful pizzarias on that backstreet behind the church!
 
Nearly all true, but there is a difference between foil sag/tension and pointing ability/halyard tension.

It might be true that higher halyard tension moves the draught forward and makes the boat have a 'narrower' groove on the wind, but a sagging luff from lack of forestay tension will also kill your pointing and boatspeed.

Get the forestay tension right and then decide how much luff tension you need on the genoa halyard.
 
Yup, basically that's it.

In fact, the America's Cup boat designers are essentially seeking higher and higher pointing angles as the evolution from one era to another. They all go more or less 10kts on all point of sail (a bit of a gross generalisation but you get the idea) and all other things being equal (wind shifts and crew) it's basically the boat that can point the highest that will get to the top mark first and usually win.

When you sail on an AC boat going to windward it feel like you are defying the laws of physics. When I helmed NZL41 in Auckland we seemed to be around 10-12 degrees off the wind which to all intents and purposes feels like you are doing the impossible and sailing directly upwind!

Yes under some conditions it's better to crack off a fraction and sail slightly fuller and faster e.g. at night/choppy conditions/tired helsman but on the whole you want to be in the groove at the boat's best upwind polar angle.

The forestay tension issue is kind of a hygiene factor - you've got to get that right to create the right foil shape in the first place to even allow you to have a sensible discussion about options for pointing as high as poss vs cracking off 5 degrees - and seeing which gives you the best VMG
 
That works out to a true wind speed of 12 knots and a true wind angle of 38 degrees. So she was tacking through 75 degrees. If that left you at the back of the fleet the rest must have bloody good. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
That might explain it. Unless somethings goes horribly wrong on the downwind legs.

I know that clever instrument set-ups will clacluate VWG directly for you but for those of us who only have apparent wind instruments these graphs might help:

12 Knots Apparent.
17 Knots Apparent.
22 Knots Apparent.

I think this explains why my pointing angles seem to improve with as the boat speed increases.
 

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