Mast varnish

So which epifanes is this? I couldn't make it out easily on the Robbins web site. ta
John (with a cockpit full of teak which he made go orange peel - don't ask)

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Err, the half tin is now 200 miles away, ccs! I did upend it to stop any air ingress, and it was in the relative dryness of the workshop, but I hope the fortnight until my next assault won't set it.

I must say that the mast looks a treat after careful machine sanding, brushing, priming, sanding, brushing, second priming, and first top coat. The primer went on with no difficulty, but I really had to drive the top coat with the brush, as it is liquid plastic (and the ambient 13 degrees C didn't soften it any). I was impressed that with careful, even brushwork, there weren't many dribbles, and I caught those few whilst the film was still pliable. I was able to do all the operations outdoors in brilliant spring sunshine (to eliminate workshop dust), and then put the mast away inside for a fortnight's curing. Next installment then.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
It's called "hardhout olie" or woodfinish gloss, it allows fast build up, not requiring sanding betwenn coats, as long as you overcoat within 36 hours. I use it, five coats, then allow to harden for a few days, then flat and another five coats, same again allow to harden, then flat and topcoat of normal epifanes high gloss, works for me, in the meddy, but I do also put a coat on during the summer, doesn't take long down here, but you may need to keep the varnish in the fridge overnight, or it dries too fast, in the heat of the day. Best protection, cover it as much as possible.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Re: varnishing in the sun

oh and i was chatting to a professional varnish/decorating expert who said that it's important to do varnishing done on a sunny day, before lunchtime. Summink to do with dew points or condensation or whatever. Obviously, med-style lunches would prevent very much useful being done in the afternoon anyway...

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Re: varnishing in the sun

I think I may go into this varnishing lark full time. A job that can only be done a few hours in the morning-oh before a Med lunch sounds right up my street. I wonder what the rates are?

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Re: varnishing in the sun

You've got something there. Maybe it will catch on. 'John's original non slip orange peel varnish finish'. £250 squids an hour plus refreshments. I'll start with your boat. Imagine the flush of pride as you tell your RYA health and safety boat check man, 'nah, no slip hazard probs there. It's been done in the sun with John's Patented Orange Peel Finish'. It'll be a requirement of insurance, like new rigging whether it's worn out or not. Worth every sou.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Coelan saga

Update. I got down to Essex to do some more varnish work yesterday. The upturned tin I feared had solidified was still fluid, but as an offering to the Gods, I played a hot-air gun over it before I slapped the lid back on.

I am fortunate to have an empty property to house the mast in, so work can continue regardless of weather. The one top coat already applied a fortnight ago looked very impressive, with only one un-noticeable dribble. I applied a second coat in the morning, and the third late afternoon, just outside the recommended 2-6 hour drying time. I was surprised how un-dry it was, as the mast is strung across a heated living room.

A word on quantity. Following the guidelines, I ordered the calculated quantity. I have used only two thirds of the primer, and less than half the top coat (based on having done three of six top coats) and I haven't been scrimping on quantity, only stopping short of dribble-risk. I don't have a problem with the expensive overshoot, as I have stock for masses of other varnish jobs, on which I'm keen to try Coelans. I purely mention this in that it isn't clearly stated that one needs a lot less jollop for vertical surfaces than horizontal. Put another way, my £142 job will actually stand me in around £100, and this information is important to anyone costing out this system.

More later.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Re: Coelan saga

Coelans, does not need heat to cure, it cures with moisture as any other sikaflex type stuff, (which coelans is basically). You need a humid atmosphere. If you are doing it in a heated room, I would place a bowl of water in front of any heater/radiator, to humidify the air, you will then find the coelans cures very fast.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Re: Coelan saga

Update - Smiley emoticon - I am dead impressed with the Coelan. The mast has stood two winters and three summers now, and it is still as bright as day one. I left the spreaders in traditional varnish, and they have peeled significantly on the top sides, and are currently being Coelaned in the workshop prior to this winter.

Thanks for all the advice three years ago (blimey!), and I am very pleased with the decision and the investment.
 
Re: Coelan saga

BTW, I found a half used can of Coelan that was still as-new after two years upended in storage, but I do recall taking ccscott's advice and playing a hot air gun over the surface prior to lidding the can.
 
Top