Marking Anchor Chain

FullCircle

FullCircle

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I mark my chain every 3 metres, on account of I believe 3:1 scope is good. I also intend to mark 10/20/30/40 metres etc. Anyone any fancy ideas on marking chain or identifying system. At the moment I have a paint mark 3m and a small tie wrap, 1 for each 10m at the moment.

No, I am not going to spend a million quid at the chandlers, so plastic marker thingies arent really on.

et tu?


Jim
 
How about some of those little plastic cable ties.... can get them in various colours, or use 1 at 3m, 2 at 6m, 3 at 9m etc. etc. In the dark, they are easily counted too.

Mine have been on the chain for 6 years now, without breaking or wearing away... but easy to replace if they do!
 
Your scheme sounds fine. Mark the divisions with paint or insulating tape. I stopped using cable ties after I saw the palm of a guy who had let the chain run through his hands and had the skin ripped off by the sharp end of a plastic tie
 
Mark them with small cable ties but wrap them round the leg of the link not round the whole link then you can put the locking block inside the link so you dont catch you hands on the cut ends when you let the chain run through your hands Duh! who lets their anchor chain run through their hands anyway? surest way to lose a pinky or two. You can also melt the cut end with a lighter - I found the catalytic wind proof one we have for the cooker gave a very fine flame - no sharp edges.

I have both my chains done every 5 metres as follows:
5 two red ties
10 one yellow
15 two red ties on one link
20 two yellow on one link
25 two red ties on one link
30 three yellow ties, 2 on one link and 1 on next link
35 two red ties on one link
40 four yellow ties, 2 on one link and 2 on next link
45 two red ties on one link
50 five yellow ties, 2 on one link, 2 on the next link and one on next link
55 two red ties on one link
60 six yellow ties, 2 on each of 3 links
65 two red ties on one link
70 eight red ties, 2 on each of 4 links - STOP - only 5 metres of chain left in locker.

All the ends are turned inward and were melted so no sharp ends.
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“Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity”
Skype id:cliffillupo
 
Just to make the mark easy to see and apart from that I had loads of red and yellow ties. I thought one red tie might be difficult to see at night whereas the yellow ones are quite easily seen. Psychologically it is easier lifting the anchor if one can see the 5m markers as well as the 10m marks especially if one has had all the rode out when anchored in 20~25metres - 70~75m is a lot of chain to lift even with the windlass.
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“Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity”
Skype id:cliffillupo
 
I must be too simple

White paint, so you can see it in the dark.

The part of the chain that stays on deck is painted. This slows rust but also tells you when to stop heaving on the windlass.

5 fathoms - 5 links

10 fathoms - 10 links

15 fathoms - 15 links

20 fathoms 5 links, 5 links unpainted, 5 links

25 fathoms - 10 links, 10 links unpainted, 10 links

30 fathoms - 15 links, 15 links unpainted, 15 links

I have never got round to painting the last 15 fathoms, on the grounds that it only sees the light of day if we drag.

Since I can divide and multiply by two in my head, I don't see the need to mark anything in metres. Suppose I anchor in 5 metres HWOS, I veer 10 fathoms, usually.
 
Coloured cables ties are the favourite and if the spare length is snipped off for neatness then beware when handling the chain as they can cut water softened skin quite badly. Make sure that the ends are turned in to the middles of the links.

We use a power windlass and have different colours marking eight links at each 10m until the end of the chain at 60m which is marked for the last 3m with white Hammerite paint and dayglo ties (free with some boaty mag or other). It then runs out onto rope which we hardly ever use.

Steve Cronin
 
At 10 metres , A plastic tie- on sign saying '' Almost ok "

At 20 metres , ............................ ''Good night's sleep,probably''

At 29.99m ,................................... ''Hold It"

Apologies , I gave up on ties , interfered with stowing the chain down the 'ole . Prefer White paint AND 50mm lengths of light cord , one splodge and length per 10metres ,something you could see or feel when its blowing and you are trying to veer out more chain ,etc .

I wonder if Mr Jimdew , as inventor of the ''Jimdew Anchor Ball System'' (see July thread) might also consider incorporating a digital chain scope indicator onto the aforementioned Ball ,(Mark 2) thus enabling all those newly arriving at a popular anchorage to determine precisely and at a single glance, how much to let out and where to let it out ?
/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
I used to do it the ships way ..... but sans shackles .... measure of each x m's and paint the link. Count the number of links either side corresponding to m's and paint that link either side of first painted shackle ... if you see what I mean. Then you had --- my chain was : Black link at measurement, white links at either side number of links to m's.
Later I added a tie-wrap at the measured link..... so that I could feel the wrap 'catch' my hand as it went out ... didn't bother with multiple ties ...

Present boat has no marks - but plan to do similar again ....
 
Snooker system has much to commend...

[ QUOTE ]
I mark my chain every 3 metres, on account of I believe 3:1 scope is good. I also intend to mark 10/20/30/40 metres etc. Anyone any fancy ideas on marking chain or identifying system. At the moment I have a paint mark 3m and a small tie wrap, 1 for each 10m at the moment.

No, I am not going to spend a million quid at the chandlers, so plastic marker thingies arent really on.

et tu?


Jim

[/ QUOTE ]I determined a system which allows for the fact that the cable ties DO fail from time to time.

Each marking consists of two cable ties (one being purely redundant, so you put a replacement on if you ever see just one). Beyond that, I use 5:1, and the 'repeating snooker system' (thanks to some Scuttlebutter I cannot name - useful only if you play snooker from time to time).

5m - Red (in snooker red= 1, so 1 X 5) (being 2 red ties)
10m - Yellow
15m - Green
20m - Brown*
30m - Blue

35m - red (sequence repeats indefinitely, dep on how much chain you have)
40m - yellow
...

* the Maplin multicolour pack does not have a brown, so I actually use orange, black might have made more sense, but I might have thought it was 35m... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Your scheme sounds fine. Mark the divisions with paint or insulating tape. I stopped using cable ties after I saw the palm of a guy who had let the chain run through his hands and had the skin ripped off by the sharp end of a plastic tie

[/ QUOTE ]Wowee... you have hit a pet subject of mine. SWMBO packs the chain as it comes in, to avoid pyramids etc etc; since bringing in chain and not noticinng the nylon line and hooks somehow snarled up in it - she has these super garden gloves. I really would like to get a pair of the superfine chain mail gloves to go inside, but can't find them on the web. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Oh, plus... they would be very useful when opening oysters. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
Does anyone else remember, many years ago, either PBO or YM (pretty sure it was PBO) giving a freebie packet of pretty coloured cable ties just for this purpose?

Mine might still be on the boat, in the toolbox.......
 
[ QUOTE ]
I stopped using cable ties after I saw the palm of a guy who had let the chain run through his hands and had the skin ripped off by the sharp end of a plastic tie

[/ QUOTE ]You're NOT meant to trim them and the tails are easier to see / count if not trimmed. Yes, they do still go through my gypsey without a problem.
 
Blueboatman is invited to be next Marketing Director of Marine-O-Whizz Products!
erudite sugggestions abound, as in thread above:-
<I wonder if Mr Jimdew , as inventor of the ''Jimdew Anchor Ball System'' (see July thread) might also consider incorporating a digital chain scope indicator onto the aforementioned Ball ,(Mark 2) thus enabling all those newly arriving at a popular anchorage to determine precisely and at a single glance, how much to let out and where to let it out ?>

Indeed, indeed. The Mooro-Anker Ball Super Deluxe is born. Digital chain scope indicator directly interfaced with forward facing sonar assesses the ground under the craft, and pings the onboard weatherstation for barometric indications of weather. Thus enabled, with tidal info from the Chartplotter, it takes control of throttle, autopilot and bowthruster, and lets exactly the amount of chain go as needed from the perimetrically sensed electric windlass. Then lays the chain with a computer generated lay path, and engages stern at precisely 2000RPM until correct tension is felt. Then releases tension and monitors all parameters for possible change. Automatically deploys the light sensing Mooro-Anker Ball , and alerts the fridge to dispense a beer for the hard working Skipper and Crew. Brilliant.
 
I bought some of those car paint touch up tubes with a brush in the screw lid
Red =10m
Blue = 20
Yellow=30
White = 40
RedwhiteRed = 50
They seem to last a season easily
I spent some time attaching coloured cable ties but the gypsy eats them for fun
 
[ QUOTE ]
Your scheme sounds fine. Mark the divisions with paint or insulating tape. I stopped using cable ties after I saw the palm of a guy who had let the chain run through his hands and had the skin ripped off by the sharp end of a plastic tie

[/ QUOTE ]

singe the end with a flame and they are all lovely and smooth. I use them alot at work and a bit of heat improves them no end.

Just a tip - from a man who has had sore hands.....
 
No Windlass, but short anchor rode anyway ...

10m - 1 x Blue
15m - 1 x Blue, 1 x Red
20m - 2 x Blue
25m - 2 x Blue, 1 x Red
30m - 3 x Blue

All done with whipping twine that doesn't tear your hands, is easy to identify and shouldn't wear too quickly....
 
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