Mariner/Yamaha 2hp (1984) Informatiopn?

[VicS]

Evening All,

After rescuing exactly this engine from a loft I've just stripped and serviced it - fortunately following VicMallows route - by luck rather than judgement!

Tried to run it up yesterday - outside in this weather and for the first time this century - no firing...

Is that inevitable at the temperatures we have had? Or could there be something more fundamentally wrong? I am simply getting no spark at all despite clean and well made connections, the original (cleaned) plug and good fuel flow with the correct mix.

New to mechanics I'm afraid - any thoughts welcome.

Larsen B - apologies for the slight hijack!

You definitely cannot get a spark from the end of the lead ???

If not check stop button and wiring to it

It that's not shorting
Could be points, condenser, or coil Sorry I dont know the points gap but it may be in the link I gave in #11

( Late ones had CDI but I think all the early ones were points ignition)

even with a good spark you may need to clean the carb

 

[Gnjoutside]

Thanks for the prompt response VicS. I'm getting no firing at all, not even a cough and stutter.

I will check connections and shorting, and check the spark.

If points, condenser or coil then I'm out of my mechanical comfort zone!

 

[awol]

It must be a symptom of the long winter that has people fiddling with outboards that don't need maintenance. Mine really needed an impeller - no tell-tale, started to seize after 10mins running and one blade left. You definitely need the kit with housing and seals - about £45 from your friendly Yamaha dealer (or Ferry Marine!). Other than that, mine has the same spark plug as 8 years ago when it came with the boat, has an extremely dodgy stop switch (don't touch, just use the choke to stop it) and gets flushed in the wheely bin - doubles as a bin-wash. Don't ever run them dry - they will run in a bucket of water if you take the prop off - and only play with them when they are obviously unhappy - tempted to say, a bit like women, but that could get me into trouble.

 

[Gnjoutside]

http://www.tohatsu.com/news/seiko.html

AWOL... if one of these little motors can do this then my hopes are high that my 'barn find' can be rescued!

Cheers!

 

[Larsen B]

I think I might be just being cack handed here, but having some trouble getting the pinion gear back on the drive shaft. I line up the two washers, get the end of the drive shaft in position, fiddle around for 5 mins but can't get the splines on the shaft to engage in the pinion. I can see that the pinion has to mesh with the forward gear, to get in the right position to receive the drive shaft. Is there some crafty technique or some tool that helps with the job, or do I just keep trying and improve my fiddling skills?

Oh and no problem with the thread hijack Gnjoutside, more the merrier. I have had some invaluable advice from the regulars on here, really helpful!

 

[alahol2]

I think I might be just being cack handed here, but having some trouble getting the pinion gear back on the drive shaft. I line up the two washers, get the end of the drive shaft in position, fiddle around for 5 mins but can't get the splines on the shaft to engage in the pinion. I can see that the pinion has to mesh with the forward gear, to get in the right position to receive the drive shaft. Is there some crafty technique or some tool that helps with the job, or do I just keep trying and improve my fiddling skills?

I had a similar problem yesterday when I was putting mine back together. What I did was to withdraw the drive shaft so that it is not inside the gearbox at all. Hold the pinion gear inside the gearbox, pushed up against the hole for the drive shaft. Very gently push the drive shaft into the gearbox. If it doesn't catch in the pinion, withdraw, rotate the drive shaft very slightly and try again. Took a few tries but it eventually slid into the pinion; once in, it stays quite happily on its own. Watch when trying to re-insert the circlip (?), I got it half way depressed and it shot off into the distance. Got there eventually.

 

[Larsen B]

Thanks Alahol. Yes I think it just needs a bit of technique like you mentioned, will try again when I have all the parts to re-assemble.

Here's another issue though. On dismantling the gearbox using Alahol's excellent photo guide, I notice that mine has no o-ring for the front plate to seal against, also there was no gasket on the join. A previous owner had obviously used an instant gasket sealant, so I have cleaned all of the gunk off. There are also no shims on the prop shaft, I assume they are to adjust backlash?

Here is a photo of mine which is a little different to the one in your guide and doesnt look like it can accomodate an o-ring .

The parts lists are a bit confusing. Mine is a Mariner 2M 6A1 serial 076465. The only two parts lists I can find are for a 2A which has no o-ring shown. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/M...100 AND BELOW/GEARHOUSING ASSEMBLY/parts.html Then there is a 2B which does show an o-ring http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc2/Mariner/2B/6A1-000101 AND UP/GEARHOUSING ASSEMBLY/parts.html. No 2M parts list though! Either way the parts list shows the o-rings and gaskets to be obsolete anyway so I guess I will have to make do with instant gasket sealant.

Mine has no anode under the cavitation plate. It will most likely only be run in fresh water, is it still advisable to use one?

 

[VicS]

I'd not think an anode would be vital in fresh water........ probably not in seawater either if its not left dunked in it all the time.


Look carefully to see if there is a space for an O ring. If there is then you may be able to get an O ring to fit but without an old one as a pattern perhaps a bit difficult to know exactly what would fit.

Otherwise cut a gasket !

 

[alahol2]

I notice that mine has no o-ring for the front plate to seal against, also there was no gasket on the join. A previous owner had obviously used an instant gasket sealant, so I have cleaned all of the gunk off. There are also no shims on the prop shaft, I assume they are to adjust backlash?

Here is a photo of mine which is a little different to the one in your guide and doesnt look like it can accomodate an o-ring....


....Mine has no anode under the cavitation plate. It will most likely only be run in fresh water, is it still advisable to use one?

Mine's a 2M also (1990).
The 'O' ring on mine is not on the face, it is on the outside edge of the male part of the gearbox faceplate. The faceplate has no gasket.
Although mine has an anode fitted it obviously never comes into play, it's like new and hasn't changed in the last 10 years of intermittent use.

 

[VicMallows]

Although mine has an anode fitted it obviously never comes into play, it's like new and hasn't changed in the last 10 years of intermittent use.

Interesting. The anode on my Suzuki 2.2 was likewise immaculate after several years which I found suspicious. One day I unbolted it, cleaned the bolt/surface, and replaced ..... whereupon it promptly started to erode at a slow but steady rate, as one might expect! Perhaps they assemble EVERYTHING with zinc-chromate paste?

Edit: the Suzuki does have a metal prop, unlike the Yamaha/Mariner plastic, ....which may also make a difference.

 

[Larsen B]

Definitely cant find any location for an o-ring. The recess on the inside edge does not make a full circle and part of the ring would have to be suspended in mid air. As there isn't one shown in the parts diagram I expect I should be ok? Would a paper gasket do a better job than gasket maker sealant? Never made a paper gasket before so not sure what thickness gasket to use, ... thinking about it, it shouldnt be that critical should it, I cant see how it would affect anything other than the prop position, provided that doesn't bind it should be ok hopefully. 0.4mm seeems to be a common thickness, would this suffice? I presume I simply make an impression with the metal part on the gasket paper, trace round it and cut it out.....

I did manage to suss out the technique for getting the pinion on the drive shaft as suggested. I can now manage it without expletives!

To be honest I am now stuck waiting for parts, but as someone said earlier,the bad weather has us a bit bored and looking for jobs to do, sorting out all my fishing gear will be next. I was going to check the water ways in the head, but I used a bit of 6mm bore fuel pipe and attached that to a garden hose. The 6mm bore fits nice and snug over the brass pipe hanging down the drive shaft housing so I connected it up and gave it a good flush through, definitely no major blockages there to worry about

 

[Larsen B]

For anybody that is interested. I spoke to a seal and bearing company in the UK about the replacement seal needed (its the one above the water impeller housing and I presume stops water etc getting into the driveshaft tube). I carefully measured the old seal and measured the shaft with a micrometer at 11mm. The suppliers confirm that their seals are perfectly suitable for outboard motors and salt water and the use intended. The new seal will arrive tomorrow at abot £5 instead of the £20 plus for the Mariner OEM part. I will let you know how I get on.

 

[GDonM]

I have acquired a Mariner 2M, serial 6A1070890, that has few hours on it but has been stored for 25+ years. It has no spark. I believe the coil is bad but have not found a source for a new one. Does anybody know where I can get a new coil?

 

[anoccasionalyachtsman]

I have acquired a Mariner 2M, serial 6A1070890, that has few hours on it but has been stored for 25+ years. It has no spark. I believe the coil is bad but have not found a source for a new one. Does anybody know where I can get a new coil?

I've used Pacermarine – For all your boating needs… for parts, but notice that they're currently closed (C19).

Just a thought, but have you checked that the stop switch is opening correctly?