Mariner 3.3 cooling blocked

[Lakesailor]

Re: I\'m wondering...

Steve. Your posts usually seem a little superior in tone.

So for the record: I didn't let anything get into that state. I bought a very old Tohatsu and brought it back from the edge of derilection.

If you had ever met me or seen my restoration projects of other people's detritus you would, just maybe, be a little less judgemental.

 

[steve_cronin]

Re: I\'m wondering...

You didn't say that you bought a wreck and after all, we were in the midst of a technical discussion on a different engine entirely, not an apologist's seminar.

I just hate to see a neglected machine - as YOU would see if ever you saw this, son of an engineer's, grandson of a farmer's, enthusiast, removed to financial matters, workshop cum mechanical museum's, over stocked garage.

To offer a word of advice, when they get like that you have to balance the possible future life against the lengths you are prepared to go to get the castings clean again but I'm sure that you take that as read.

In reality, scraping as much crud as you can (the split stainless spines on car wiper blades are incredibly good for this) out of the water passages and coating with red lead primer is probably as good as you can get it.

Re-facing the head will ahve two advantages. One is to assure a better seal for the head gasket, the sewcond is a marginal increase in compression ratio which might just help in future starting - although the fiting of new rings goes without saying.

sorry if you felt offended,

Steve Cronin

 

[Wilson]

Many thanks to everyone who has helped , especially those who have gone to much trouble. I have lots to go on so will start to put your advice to good effect. Thank you all again.

 

[Red Herring]

Very Helpful - Many Thanks

Hi Lakesailor

As I said - very helpful - gave me the courage to get the top off my mariner 3.3 and a build up of pristine white salt came into view. Flushed with succes I proceeded to unscrew the jacket, all very good, only I am reluctant to use force to get it to part from the leg. Is there a trick? how do you get some leverage?

Your help is much appreciated and the stick you get further down the blog, well "no good deed goes unpunished"

Thanks
Red Herring

 

[Lakesailor]

The drive shaft gets very wedded to the output socket in the end of the crankshaft.
Some wiggling or even tapping with a wooden mallet (or a wooden drift using a hammer) usually get them to part. Don't prise them apart as you may damage the machine faces. If you can mont the motor on something some careful tapping of the bit that swells out above the cavitation plate where the leg is pretty strong can get it moving.
My experience doesn't cover the model with gears but I think there is a grommet to remove on the leg and a clamp to slacken off on the gear rod?

 

[Fire99]

Well if it's of any interest, I'm currently in the process of stripping down and rebuilding my 2001 Mariner 2.5 (same as 3.3 but with fixed drive gearbox) with new base gasket, head gasket etc for the very same reason. Water channels had got gunked up over time and needed a good clean up.

 

[Fire99]

Whilst I'm here. Is there any recommendations for head bolts of this engine? I've a sheered one and No doubt the rest aren't too amazing either so a new set is needed. However I don't want to get the wrong material etc

 

[Lakesailor]

Buy the proper ones from Will's Marine or similar. (Google)

 

[Fire99]

Buy the proper ones from Will's Marine or similar. (Google)

Thanks... It's just that I have an industrial fasteners supplier near me so can have pretty much any type / size bolt I want from them..

 

[Lakesailor]

Any stampings on the bolt head. Tale one in to the merchant.
To be honest, a new bolt of decent quality is better than one that's been torqued a few times.
They lose their elasticity.
Someone like Cliff can probably give it a proper name.

 

[Talbot]

I pulled the engine apart on a 2 hp yamaha several times over two decades of use in order to maintain a good water flow through the engine. It has a lot of similarities to the 3.3, 3.5, and 2.5 engines in that the water passages are small and relatively easy to block up. The layout is similar as well.

One of the most important things to remember is that the bolts are stainless and are into aluminium. Do NOT over tighten, and make sure that there is sufficient grease to lubricate so that next time the bolt will come out a lot easier.

Probably the most important is to grease the shaft join from the engine where it connects to the shaft in the leg. This has to come apart if the passageways need to be cleaned, and if it binds then getting the darn thing apart caan be a nightmare.

 

[smithy]

I used to pull an old 5hp mariner apart periodically to remove partial blockages. Got feed up with this after a while so I took to inverting the engine, injecting the tell tail using a syringe and vinegar and leaving overnight. When flushed and a careful poke about with wire the salt would come out in jelly like lumps. Engine still running well years later.

 

[Fire99]

I used to pull an old 5hp mariner apart periodically to remove partial blockages. Got feed up with this after a while so I took to inverting the engine, injecting the tell tail using a syringe and vinegar and leaving overnight. When flushed and a careful poke about with wire the salt would come out in jelly like lumps. Engine still running well years later.

Some very useful info there. I've used vinegar (sometimes with lemon juice) for cleaning scale off taps before and it works very well indeed.