Mariner 2hp o/b - water in cylinder - how?

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Oldgeezer

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Hi,
I've had a trawl through all mariner 2hp posts to find an answer - but I give up!
Yesterday my mariner 2m 6A1 - 049796 (1982) coughed and spluttered to a halt and refused to restart.
So today I checked the spark plug - nasty rusty water on it. Dried it all off and started the motor - spluttered to a halt due to water on spark plug.
so got the socket set and took a photo hoping some kind soul will tell me what it needs (last rites??)
I think it may just be head gasket - but may be all of them. I hasten to add I know v. little about engines but that water shouldn't really be in the cylinder.

If it is a head gasket needed - any ideas where I can get one? or is red hermetite needed?

Many thanks
Keith
 
Oldgeezer said:
Hi,
I've had a trawl through all mariner 2hp posts to find an answer - but I give up!
Yesterday my mariner 2m 6A1 - 049796 (1982) coughed and spluttered to a halt and refused to restart.
So today I checked the spark plug - nasty rusty water on it. Dried it all off and started the motor - spluttered to a halt due to water on spark plug.
so got the socket set and took a photo hoping some kind soul will tell me what it needs (last rites??)
I think it may just be head gasket - but may be all of them. I hasten to add I know v. little about engines but that water shouldn't really be in the cylinder.

If it is a head gasket needed - any ideas where I can get one? or is red hermetite needed?

Many thanks
Keith
Click to expand...

its either been up-ended with water in the leg or the head gasket blown.
a new gasket does not req any hermatite.
 
as far as i can see on my phone - corrosion. that'd what happened to my old mariner. brilliant engine which finally borrowed through the waterways
 
Find a dealer from the website

http://www.marineroutboards.co.uk/dealersearch.php

Seamark Nunn between Ipswich and Felixstowe generally have a good reputation as chandlers. I see they are Mariner agents

I have had good service from Outboards Direct ( aka Oakley Marine) in Brighton They are Mariner agents


Check for corrosion between water ways and cylinder.
 
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Hmmm. The cylinder head and cylinder look nice and shiny, yet the water is brown rust. No sign of a gasket failure. You need to determine where that water is coming from. And no, don't use poxy gasket goo. Ugh!
 
Might be an idea to check for brown rusty water in the fuel tank which has worked it way through although it probably wouldn't have started in the first place.
It's just about the only place rusty water could come from, any other water would be sooty / oily.
 
SAMYL said:
Might be an idea to check for brown rusty water in the fuel tank which has worked it way through although it probably wouldn't have started in the first place.
It's just about the only place rusty water could come from, any other water would be sooty / oily.
Click to expand...

Second that. However now the head is off you need a new gasket. Take a flat file and clean up the surfaces of the cylinder and head. Don't take too much off but enough to clean down to metal. It should be obvious if there is just a narrow gap of metal or none at all between the water jacket and the cylinder. If it is fine then reassemble and try cleaning out the carb and fuel tank. And first off spray lots of oil into crank case via the carb in case water is in there corroding the bearings. good luck olewill
 
Oh Dear!
Thought it might be a simple head gasket. I'll take the cover off the crank case end and make sure there's plenty of grease in the bearings. Top of the leg gasket could probably do with a check / replace too then, as I guess there's plenty of water sploshing around in there. Still not sure how it got into the cylinder though.
Now in search of gaskets as the shops are open......
thanks
Keith
 
I would suggest replacing the head gasket and the two gaskets between the crankcase and the leg. This will enable you to clean out the water coolant pathways and check for leaks and corrosion.
The bearings are held in the crankcase and are lubricated by the fuel/oil mix not grease. I wouldn't bother splitting the crankcase, you will not gain much unless you need to replace the bearings.
As William says, clean out the carb and tank and reassemble and run it. All should be well, they are very sturdy little motors.

PS Always carry it head-up to avoid water tracking down/backwards into the cylinder.
 
Hi Guys...re this engine how on earth are you meant to get to the seal below the stainless cup in the leg?
Do you think putting it in boiling water would help?

Sorry for bursting in like this but i have issues with mine but its not as serious.....well hopefully!!:confused:
 
Once the stainless and plastic cups are out, carefull use of a screwdriver got the seal out.

And an update on mine - all gaskets replaced with new (both the ones at the top of the leg), head gasket, gearbox gasket. All oil seals replaced. Gearbox oil replaced. 'o' rings on driveshaft tube had silicon sealant added to make sure they dont leak. All traces of crud in waterways removed. Stainless steel water pump housing, plastic cup, and impeller replaced. New spark plug. points adjusted. Carburettor cleaned out.

Works better than new!!!!! :)
 
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OldGeezer,

My Mariner 2 had a snag where the waterways eventually corroded to almost nothing in some places, sounds very like your problem.

This 1988 engine has been dunked 3 times, when the tender was flipped in gales or deflated overnight, ie my carelesness.

The main bearings were replaced, not a big effort or cost.

The waterways were built up again using 'chemical metal', which took a bit of time and trial & error, on the first attempt the waterways were too restricted and it ran hot.

One has to be really thorough cleaning out the corrosion, it's easy to think you've got it all when you haven't.

Good luck, these are superb little engines.
 
push piston down another 1/2" and check that the anti bounce hole is free to the exhaust will possible look like a black polished ring in the cylinder wall.

makes starting smoother and run a bit more evenly.
 
Don't use a file to clean up the mating surfaces of the block and head - you will not get flat surfaces and a file is too course. Use a large sanding block or piece of wood and emery cloth/paper.
 
Good luck, these are superb little engines.[/QUOTE]

+1 bought mine new 1983 to replace oily seagull , I would hate to lose it. I have stripped it down a couple of times and as long as spares are available I will keep it going. As far as pollution goes I probably use far less than a gallon a season as I like to row when suitable.
 
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