Mariner 2.5hp fuel cap thread strip

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GIBSLIND

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Hi, did I see an article somewhere about repairing a stripped thread on a Mariner 2.5HP outboard motoir fuel tank. This outboard is sold under several other brand names and I have seen reference to this being a problem - the plastic thread on the tank has just disintigrated with age...it might even have been a PBO article...but any help with a solution please. I have found the tank on Ebay for £57 and on an American site for $90 but would prefer to have a go at fixing it before spending so much.
 
any chance of having that advice on the forum rather than a PM please ? I have the same model, and it might be useful one day. Ta !
 
You could stick a 'want' advert on here and/or ebay; a specific request might get a response from an outboard breaker. There are also outboard breakers who advertise on ebay by 'auctioning' a bolt or other low value item, but the listing asks you to PM them with requests for specific bits.
 
The answer to this proverbial problem may be solved by going to a local garage and buying a push in petrol STOPPER it has an air valve in it . Sorry but no pictures and it was a few years ago that i had the same problem,so do not know if they are still available.

Peter
 
rivonia said:
The answer to this proverbial problem may be solved by going to a local garage and buying a push in petrol STOPPER it has an air valve in it . Sorry but no pictures and it was a few years ago that i had the same problem,so do not know if they are still available.

Peter
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That at best is only going to be a temporary fix. It will surely leak if the tank is tipped.
 
Sorry not be able to help, but the original posting reminded me of when my Merc 2.5 started leaking fuel from the cap many years ago. The motor was about a year old, the UK distributor (Barrus?) wanted about half the price of a new engine for a replacement tank. I explained that the carpet in the boot of my car (where the fuel had leaked) cost more to replace than the motor had cost and that even in those pre-Youtube days I would rather make a video of the engine being destroyed rather than pay them again for a faulty piece of plastic, and while they were at it they could look forward to an epose of the fact that the glue holding the decals on the motor casing was not petrol resistant and of course that the useless little clips holding the top cowl on were exactly that, useless!

A new tank, plus new decals arrived free of charge a couple of days later.

Not much use to the OP but it still cheers me up to remember that being a grumpy old man sometimes has its uses (now if only I could get Bill Gates to listen.........)
 
The PBO article in question is in the Nov 2012 edition - "Outboard fuel filler repair". Basically removed all the old thread. Cut a shallow groove following the pitch of the old thread, drilled a hole through the stub at the start and end of the thread and wound a thick piece of copper wire round it, pulling it tight and bending inside the stub to create a thread. He also glued a piece of waste pipe inside to reinforce it with epoxy putty.
 
captainboo said:
The PBO article in question is in the Nov 2012 edition - "Outboard fuel filler repair". Basically removed all the old thread. Cut a shallow groove following the pitch of the old thread, drilled a hole through the stub at the start and end of the thread and wound a thick piece of copper wire round it, pulling it tight and bending inside the stub to create a thread. He also glued a piece of waste pipe inside to reinforce it with epoxy putty.
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Thank you that is brilliant, I will certainly try this if only as a stop gap until I can find a second hand one.
 
Or you could find a good tank off another o/b cut off the filler part and plastic weld it on to your tank. I have done that before and works well.
Steve
 
I used a soldering iron, the plastic is fairly thick so its easy to do. Try to get an old tank of the same material. Leaving a large flange on the new filler will make it easier to weld on. I would file the old thread off the tank and try to find another filler neck thats slightly larger in diameter , work on both of the surfaces until you get a good fit then weld the tops of the necks together then you dont have the worry of damaging the tank.....Simples!!;)
 
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steve66 said:
I used a soldering iron, the plastic is fairly thick so its easy to do. Try to get an old tank of the same material. Leaving a large flange on the new filler will make it easier to weld on. I would file the old thread off the tank and try to find another filler neck thats slightly larger in diameter , work on both of the surfaces until you get a good fit then weld the tops of the necks together then you dont have the worry of damaging the tank.....Simples!!;)
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Sir, you are a genius...many thanks.
 
AOWYN said:
Sorry not be able to help, but the original posting reminded me of when my Merc 2.5 started leaking fuel from the cap many years ago. The motor was about a year old, the UK distributor (Barrus?) wanted about half the price of a new engine for a replacement tank. I explained that the carpet in the boot of my car (where the fuel had leaked) cost more to replace than the motor had cost and that even in those pre-Youtube days I would rather make a video of the engine being destroyed rather than pay them again for a faulty piece of plastic, and while they were at it they could look forward to an epose of the fact that the glue holding the decals on the motor casing was not petrol resistant and of course that the useless little clips holding the top cowl on were exactly that, useless!

A new tank, plus new decals arrived free of charge a couple of days later.

Not much use to the OP but it still cheers me up to remember that being a grumpy old man sometimes has its uses (now if only I could get Bill Gates to listen.........)
Click to expand...

Mine leaked from day one and was changed under warranty without argument
 
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