Marine sealants.

[Topcat47]

I sort of remember a post a while ago discussing marine sealants. Mostly i use a clear silicone and am happy with the resuults but I have to do the toerail on SNARK and need soemething in white that doesn't set like putty after a while yet stands up to salt and UV. Sikkaflex doesn't after a while, at least in my experience.

 

[cliff]

Sikaflex 295UV
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"

 

[markdj]

295UV isn't recommended for glass. It works for acylic though...

Sikaflex®-295 UV is a fast curing, one-component, flexible, high performance polyurethane-based adhesive for bonding and sealing of windows and portholes. Sikaflex®-295 UV is suitable for all types of organic (PC, PMMA) windowpanes. Its high degree of UV resistance also allows the use of the system as a weatherproof sealant.

In the brochure for 295 it states: Do not use for bonding glass.

I think the stuff you may need is Sikaflex 296...

Sikaflex®-296 is a one part moisture cured polyurethane adhesive specifically formulated for frameless bonding of large glass marine windows. Sikaflex®-296 eliminates the need for unsightly metal frames and gives incredible design freedom for modern boat building. It can also be used for the backfilling of exposed surfaces.

You could also use the 3M™ Marine Grade Silicone Sealant:

A mildew resistant non-sagging, moisturecuring silicone rubber sealant. Remains flexible with excellent resistance to the marine environment. Adheres to bare and painted metal, fiberglass, glass, non-oily woods and many plastics and abraded rubbers. Ideal for head sealing applications. Also excellent gasket adhesive and formed-in-place gasket material.

 

[cliff]

[ QUOTE ]
but I have to do the toerail on SNARK and need soemething in white that doesn't set like putty after a while yet stands up to salt and UV.

[/ QUOTE ]I doubt if his toe rails are made of GLASS, please read the original post before cutting and pasting from the Sika site. We can all go to the site and read the bumph ourselves.
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"

 

[yoda]

I have always used and still sware by 'Seelastic' which can be obtained from either Motor Factors or caravan shops. It is made in White and Black and does exactly what you want it to. It does form a skin where exposed to the air but remains flexible and water tight in the joint for many many years.

Yoda

 

[twisterkai]

Or you could look at the Purflex range of sealants - as I recall they're a lot cheaper than Sikaflex.

 

[TigaWave]

I've used Arbothrane sealants and found them as good if not better than some other better known brands and substatntially less expensive.

Its interesting that the warrior (the old one in Pompey) uses Arbothrane deck caulk, and their deck gets a lot of traffic


They have some UV resistant sealants but maybe not in white, maybe worth asking them as they have a huge range.

Its worth a look http://www.arbo.co.uk/index2.htm

 

[Graham_Wright]

Another good thing about the Arbo range is that they don't seem to go solid in the end of the tube as fast as others.

 

[markdj]

I must have been reading about the bending windows post while replying to this one... Sorry

Anyway, that 3M silicone seems to fit the bill.

 

[asj1]

You need to decide if you want an acrylic sealant ( that can be removed easily later) or a sealant/ adhesive (which sets solid and cannot be removed later ) Sikaflex is in the latter category - I know because I didn't appreciate the difference and some of my windows are effectively glued in place permanently and others can be removed and re-bedded if they ever leak. I suggest either would do for you but be aware of the difference !!

 

[abraxus]

If you do't ever want to remove it afterwards I can recommend 3M 5200. In my experience, once fixed it stays fixed.

 

[markdj]

Yeah, I have used 3M 4200 and it is seriously good stuff. Stronger than 291 and 5200 is stronger than 292 according to shear strength figures.

 

[boatbuilder]

If your perdpex seems to be permenantly stuck you can use an end cutting bit in a router to remove it and the cured sealant. Had the same problem a couple of years ago.

 

[Wayward_Son]

3M 5200. It comes in white or brown and you will never have to re-bed anything you seat it with, above or below the waterline.

 

[SvenglishTommy]

3M 5200 is seriously strong and almost impossible to remove. 3M 4000 UV will stand up better cosmetically to UV and weathering, remain less putty-like and be perfectly strong enough. It is also more metal-friendly and wont require as much prep.