Manually controlling the anchor chain payout

[SimonFa]

Some while back I was reading a thread and someone had posted a picture showing how they control the payout of the anchor chain manually using a bit of rope wound round a cleat with their foot to as a sort of break. I've been looking for it again but can't find it; can anyone help?

Many thanks in advance,

Simon

 

[Caer Urfa]

Some while back I was reading a thread and someone had posted a picture showing how they control the payout of the anchor chain manually using a bit of rope wound round a cleat with their foot to as a sort of break. I've been looking for it again but can't find it; can anyone help?

Many thanks in advance,

Simon

Hi Simon

Sorry mate my best advice is you do not want your foot or bits of rope anywhere near the anchor chain as it is going out.

I control the anchor speed going out from the wing nut on the side of the Gipsy no problem.

I do however always drop an anchor 'trip wire' at the same time, which is 'pre layed' out down the deck side so it just runs out also at the same time.

Mike

 

[GrahamM376]

Hi Simon

Sorry mate my best advice is you do not want your foot or bits of rope anywhere near the anchor chain as it is going out.

I control the anchor speed going out from the wing nut on the side of the Gipsy no problem.

+1

 

[prv]

Sorry mate my best advice is you do not want your foot or bits of rope anywhere near the anchor chain as it is going out.

I control the anchor speed going out from the wing nut on the side of the Gipsy no problem.

That's all very well for those of us who have a windlass, with a brake that can control the speed of the chain. Absolutely that's the best solution. However, people with smaller boats (including myself until this year) often have no choice but to lay out the chain manually.

To the OP - afraid I haven't come across the rope trick you're seeking. I always just laid out Kindred Spirit's chain hand-over-hand.

Pete

 

[VicMallows]

I always just laid out Kindred Spirit's chain hand-over-hand.

Or indeed just letting the chain run out through (gloved) hands?

Indeed, it is the difficulty of letting the chain out really quickly when anchoring single-handed in a confined anchorage that has put me off installing an electric anchor windlass.

 

[Leighb]

Or indeed just letting the chain run out through (gloved) hands?

Indeed, it is the difficulty of letting the chain out really quickly when anchoring single-handed in a confined anchorage that has put me off installing an electric anchor windlass.

My windlass S-L Seawolf is power raise only, so with the brake released it can drop as fast as you like but controlled by the brake as necessary. I have not used a 2-way one but if it goes down at the same speed as up it would be generally too slow?

 

[Rigger Mortice]

Wasn't it something like wrapping a few loop of rope round the chain and stretching the rope out along the chain so that it forms a helix along the chain? Tighten the rope so that it acts as a brake, loosen it to take the "brake" off.

I know what I mean, I'm not sure if my explanation makes sense. I've never tried it either, but I think I've seen something along those lines. Is that vague enough?

Edit. the other end of the rope is fixed to a cleat.

 

[Tranona]

Or indeed just letting the chain run out through (gloved) hands?

Indeed, it is the difficulty of letting the chain out really quickly when anchoring single-handed in a confined anchorage that has put me off installing an electric anchor windlass.

Not sure why that is a problem. Release the brake on the gypsy and the chain falls out just as quickly, if not quicker and you have full control using the brake.

 

[TQA]

Or indeed just letting the chain run out through (gloved) hands?

I have done this with heavy duty leather welding gloves, seems to work fine except if anchoring in deep water [ say 60 ft ] with 3/8th chain.

Then the weight of chain is such that control gets to be difficult.

Ask me how I know this.

 

[VicMallows]

Not sure why that is a problem. Release the brake on the gypsy and the chain falls out just as quickly, if not quicker and you have full control using the brake.

Maybe I am indeed imagining a problem where none exists. Unfortunately few chandlers even have windlasses on display, let alone any way of 'playing' with them. Even at SBS last year every salesman implied that 'everyone wants to lower the anchor electrically, as well as raise it' .

 

[Tranona]

Maybe I am indeed imagining a problem where none exists. Unfortunately few chandlers even have windlasses on display, let alone any way of 'playing' with them. Even at SBS last year every salesman implied that 'everyone wants to lower the anchor electrically, as well as raise it' .

Once you have "played" with one you will discover your fears are ungrounded. Yes, power lowering is desirable as it is easy to control in normal use. However, they all have braked gypsies for gravity drops. The power lowering is particularly useful when backing up to a quay and controlling the speed of the boat with the anchor. So a good windlass will give you both options.

 

[prv]

Maybe I am indeed imagining a problem where none exists. Unfortunately few chandlers even have windlasses on display, let alone any way of 'playing' with them. Even at SBS last year every salesman implied that 'everyone wants to lower the anchor electrically, as well as raise it' .

At first I thought the one I inherited on Ariam was power-down only, with no clutch/brake. I was very unhappy with this, because in deep water you'd drift a long way before getting the hook onto the bottom, and I planned to replace it when funds permitted.

However, once I identified the model and looked up the instructions, I found that it actually did have a clutch but was jammed solid after years without maintenance. I spend an afternoon with solvents and a hammer and prybars and a screw-operated bearing puller, and managed to get it apart and cleaned up. Now it drops beautifully under gravity (and under control).

Two-way control on the motor is still handy for jockeying the anchor into position on the bow.

Pete

 

[James_Calvert]

On the original question, I have a 35lb anchor with 8mm chain. I secure it to a large cleat. No windlass.

I don't have much of a problem letting it run out by hand, although in deep water I'll probably range the chain out along the deck in readiness for anchoring, and secure the chain with a turn around the cleat at around the scope I intend to lay out - just in case I lose control. If I'm letting the chain out whilst it's under significant load, eg increasing the scope when anchored, I find that a half turn around the cleat is enough for control: if it needs checking I'll hold the chain up vertically and the links will catch under the horn of the cleat.

I've still got the full complement of fingers and thumbs, but you obviously have to still be wary of losing control. So if say I want to let out another 10m in boisterous conditions, I'll pull the chain out by that amount and take a turn around the other bow cleat so that if I have to let go of the chain, I still won't veer more than the intended length.

 

[SimonJ]

Although I have an electric windlass I always release the 'wing nut' and allow the chain to run out through my hand but I use a leather glove. This allows me to lower the anchor quickly in the chosen position (not one I have drifted to while lowering under power!) and let's me feel when it is on the bottom and lay out the chain under control in the desired direction with occasional hand braking to allow controlled 'digging in'.
This method has worked well during some 2000 plus nights of anchoring while cruising.