LORDNELSON
Well-Known Member
I may need to make some large diameter crimp joints, that is bigger than 6mm. I would be grateful for advice on which tool to use and the technique to be used in making the joint. Thanks.
Making large diameter crimp joints
- Thread starter LORDNELSON
- Start date
swiftnsure
New Member
I have recently completely rewired my boat, and had the same problem. The correct crimping tools are very expensive so I attempted to solder them on using a blow torch. This didn't work too well so I resorted to crimping them on in the vice. Not pretty, but quite effective.
Topcat47
Well-Known Member
I'd ask a local rigger for a price to do the crimps properly if it were me.
DanTribe
Well-Known Member
I had to make a large crimp connection as a emergency repair afloat.
I used my bolt croppers with bits of scrap metal under the jaws to stop them cutting.
Probably not recommended as a pukka job, but it worked.
I used my bolt croppers with bits of scrap metal under the jaws to stop them cutting.
Probably not recommended as a pukka job, but it worked.
Gwylan
Well-Known Member
Local hire shop or electrical wholesaler usually rent them for the day. Only way to do a job that you will feel confident about. Buy decent crimps for the job too!!!
G
Guest
Guest
[ QUOTE ]
I have recently completely rewired my boat, and had the same problem. The correct crimping tools are very expensive so I attempted to solder them on using a blow torch. This didn't work too well so I resorted to crimping them on in the vice. Not pretty, but quite effective.
[/ QUOTE ]
If you ever need to terminate really big cables (like battery or starter motor cables) and are stuck ... consider using the appropriately-sized solder bucket termination. To do this, first strip-back the cable end(s) and tin them with a blow-lamp. Wrap damp cloth around the pvc to help prevent this from melting. Then tin the inside of the solder bucket and half fill it with solder. Finally, holding the tip of the solder bucket terminal in a vice, heat-up the socket until the lead melts and pre-heat the cable ends at the same time (2 prs of hands are useful), with the damp cloth still wrapped in place. Finally, insert the cable ends into the socket and allow to cool without any movement. Wearing welding gloves is a definite benefit. Then remove any excess displaced solder, trim away any burnt pvc, and apply a collar of self-amalgamating tape to finish-off.
I have done this sucessfully many times 'in the old days' on 100A+ 440V 3-phase equipment, before crimp connections became the norm.
I have recently completely rewired my boat, and had the same problem. The correct crimping tools are very expensive so I attempted to solder them on using a blow torch. This didn't work too well so I resorted to crimping them on in the vice. Not pretty, but quite effective.
[/ QUOTE ]
If you ever need to terminate really big cables (like battery or starter motor cables) and are stuck ... consider using the appropriately-sized solder bucket termination. To do this, first strip-back the cable end(s) and tin them with a blow-lamp. Wrap damp cloth around the pvc to help prevent this from melting. Then tin the inside of the solder bucket and half fill it with solder. Finally, holding the tip of the solder bucket terminal in a vice, heat-up the socket until the lead melts and pre-heat the cable ends at the same time (2 prs of hands are useful), with the damp cloth still wrapped in place. Finally, insert the cable ends into the socket and allow to cool without any movement. Wearing welding gloves is a definite benefit. Then remove any excess displaced solder, trim away any burnt pvc, and apply a collar of self-amalgamating tape to finish-off.
I have done this sucessfully many times 'in the old days' on 100A+ 440V 3-phase equipment, before crimp connections became the norm.
RestlessL
Well-Known Member
I have used an "economy lug crimper" from Merlin with adhesive lined heatshrink to finish the job. 2 years later I have had no problems
My crimper is different to that currently on offer, but the principle is the same - using the correct size lug for the cable, make an indent with a hammer. The tool just holds the lug and cable while you hit it.
In fact, I have on ocassions not had the crimper to hand, and just used a metal punch to make the indent. Again, it is still working after 2 years.
The key is to make sure you have good quality lugs, of exactly the right size.
John
My crimper is different to that currently on offer, but the principle is the same - using the correct size lug for the cable, make an indent with a hammer. The tool just holds the lug and cable while you hit it.
In fact, I have on ocassions not had the crimper to hand, and just used a metal punch to make the indent. Again, it is still working after 2 years.
The key is to make sure you have good quality lugs, of exactly the right size.
John
Billjratt
Well-Known Member
I use 8 or 10 mil copper pipe (microbore) flattened, drilled and soldered (tinned all over). very effective
Daedelus
Well-Known Member
Strictly speaking you shouldn't solder such a joint as if there is any resistance and a high current you can melt the solder and the joint will fall apart. Having said that I used solder on a crimp lug as I hadn't got a tool to do it and it worked OK.
Later with another such crimp I shoved the thing in the vice and tightened it up and that seemed to work.
Later with another such crimp I shoved the thing in the vice and tightened it up and that seemed to work.
G
Guest
Guest
[ QUOTE ]
Strictly speaking you shouldn't solder such a joint as if there is any resistance and a high current you can melt the solder and the joint will fall apart.
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Absolutely right - but years ago there wasn't any other option. We used to get away with it ok. Having said that, there IS still a case for solder when the crimps are crap - like whenever I get my jump leads pinched (which is fairly often) and I have to replace 'em with el cheapo leads from the High Street .... the first job I do is to run some solder into each crimp. I think the Chinese crimp 'em with a pair of nut-crackers ! If yours get too hot to touch when using 'em - it's a tip worth trying. If you've got aluminium leads, you're stuffed. Multi-strand cooker cable is good for making-up DIY jump leads.
Strictly speaking you shouldn't solder such a joint as if there is any resistance and a high current you can melt the solder and the joint will fall apart.
[/ QUOTE ]
Absolutely right - but years ago there wasn't any other option. We used to get away with it ok. Having said that, there IS still a case for solder when the crimps are crap - like whenever I get my jump leads pinched (which is fairly often) and I have to replace 'em with el cheapo leads from the High Street .... the first job I do is to run some solder into each crimp. I think the Chinese crimp 'em with a pair of nut-crackers ! If yours get too hot to touch when using 'em - it's a tip worth trying. If you've got aluminium leads, you're stuffed. Multi-strand cooker cable is good for making-up DIY jump leads.
asj1
Well-Known Member
IOf you mean crimping on the battery terminals then I had the same problem, but found someone over on ebay selling re-useable bettery terminals which basically you tightened a small bolt to trap the cable into the terminal - worked fantastically well. Obviously a bit more expensive and bulky though.
damo
Well-Known Member
I used one of these for all my large diam electrical crimps - perfect for battery terminals etc. (Bl**dy expensive for what it is though - should be very easy to make one for the size of crimp you need)
crimping/swaging tool
crimping/swaging tool
snowleopard
Well-Known Member
I wired my boat from scratch so had to do quite a lot of big crimps. I went to WF Grant (elec wholesaler) and got a proper ratchet crimper that does 6-10mm. Proper job as they say down here.
Conrad
Well-Known Member
First choice always a proper crimper, if you are in the situation where a vice is the only option put a small nut one side of the lug (obviously between the vice jaw and lug) and this will push the crimp into the copper and create a fixing that will be tight and unable to pull out. Will work with mole grips on smaller lugs and cable sizes.
Amulet
Well-Known Member
Crimpers for fat cables are damned expensive. Consider taking the leads to the crimper. I prepared some and took them to my local chandler and got him to do it on the spot.
Mind you - I reckon he's buying a second home with the money I've spent there, so he has some motivation to be accommodating.
For a subsequent rewiring job I bought a not-so-expensive small crimper, ground a notch in it for bigger crimps, and bolted a couple of bits of mild steel on to lengthen the handles.
It sort of works if you crimp twice at right angles to each other, and surprisingly hasn't fallen to bits yet.
Mind you - I reckon he's buying a second home with the money I've spent there, so he has some motivation to be accommodating.
For a subsequent rewiring job I bought a not-so-expensive small crimper, ground a notch in it for bigger crimps, and bolted a couple of bits of mild steel on to lengthen the handles.
It sort of works if you crimp twice at right angles to each other, and surprisingly hasn't fallen to bits yet.
alexrunic
Well-Known Member
i used mole grips on some battery terminals a year ago and they still seem ok my be not the correct way but seemed to work for me
LORDNELSON
Well-Known Member
Thanks very much everyone. The forum has once again proved its worth. I now have a clear idea of how to do the crimping. Many thanks.
noswellplease
Well-Known Member
There is a better method but relies on good timing. Get you lugs and get your cable. In my case I brought them to a lucas garage and they obliged for me, no problem. 2nd method which also worked for me. Lay in wait for a professional electrician they are always to be found in boat yards in the spring, you know they are about when you see their van. Approach with a smile and a small request. Hey presto!
santelmo
Well-Known Member
I bought one of these
http://www.kimballmidwest.com/Catalog/CatalogIndex.aspx?p=443.315.467.3573
from an electrician in Malta its great. best used with a vice but can be used with a hammer. I think that you woukd need to have it shipped though.
http://www.kimballmidwest.com/Catalog/CatalogIndex.aspx?p=443.315.467.3573
from an electrician in Malta its great. best used with a vice but can be used with a hammer. I think that you woukd need to have it shipped though.