Making a LED reading lamp dimmable

nigel1

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I purchased three LED reading lights at less than half price (but still not cheap).

See attached PDF Volans 40P Twist.

They are not switched, but I would like to operate them with one of those touch type switches, one touch for on, then touch for off, or touch and hold to dim.

The description says they are dimmable, but on further research, it seems to suggest that a special dimmer is needed, see the attached PDF Dimmer 6018.

It does show a circuit drawing, not very well explained, and no suggestion as to the type of switch which is needed.

On top of that, they are very expensive.

Does any one know of a way to make this work, but at a much lower cost. I think if I just connected a dimmer switch directly it would probably end up with the LED flickering once it is dimmed
 

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When I installed LED lighting in my last house, the dimmable drivers cost around £100 each for satisfactory control of the lights down to very low levels.

For a lower budget, Lutron and Varilight are two well regarded products. Alternatively, get an incandescent fitting. Much cheaper.
 
all made in china - sold and resold - profit on profit makes them expensive
iPads and iPhones are made in China but the investment in product design and quality control is a complete contrast to a Temu tablet for $50.

Nothing wrong with China as a manufacturing base but suggesting a cheap Temu dimmer only differs from Lutron or Varilight indicates you haven't watched much Big Clive ;-)

The OP wants to dim some > £150 light fittings so they're clearly open to investing in quality.

 
I purchased three LED reading lights at less than half price (but still not cheap).

See attached PDF Volans 40P Twist.

They are not switched, but I would like to operate them with one of those touch type switches, one touch for on, then touch for off, or touch and hold to dim.

The description says they are dimmable, but on further research, it seems to suggest that a special dimmer is needed, see the attached PDF Dimmer 6018.

It does show a circuit drawing, not very well explained, and no suggestion as to the type of switch which is needed.

On top of that, they are very expensive.

Does any one know of a way to make this work, but at a much lower cost. I think if I just connected a dimmer switch directly it would probably end up with the LED flickering once it is dimmed
How about remote control ? Look on Ebay for Mi-Light, not expensive but work very well.
 
I'm only finding M-Light for RGB LED strip lights, would you have a link to the White Only type

Cheers
Nigel
Remote here : Mi Boxer CCT / DIMMER 2.4G 4 Zone wifi RF led strip Remote Controller 5050 2835 | eBay UK

Or this, also available in black: Mi light B1 4 Zone Wall Dimming Controller LED Strip Light | eBay UK

Or Pardon our interruption...

Mi-Light or Mi-Boxer, same thing.

Although not expensive these work really well, very smooth dimming down to barely on.
 
OP's problem is that the light he has has an electronic current control for the LED. This is indicated by the specs which show 10v to 30v input (for constant brightness)
Any dimmer connected to the 12v supply will be compensated as voltage falls. It may dim if you can take the upply voltage below 10v but would I think be rather sensitive between dim and off. You would I suspect need to open up the fitting and gain connections to the LED bulb to reduce current with a dimmer.
Fit tissue paper or opaque plastic over the front or just cope with bright. ol'will
 
Constant current LED dimming…. A bit like the man asking directions in Ireland. If you want good, cost effective and reliable dimming. I wouldnkt start from there. There are some great dimmers, but mostly for whole house lighting systems like Lutron and Rako. The lesser dimmers either flicker, don’t dim much, are unreliable, or damage the LED, or any combination of that. Sorry.
 
In general LEDs are either on or off. The dimming effect is caused by varying the ratio between on or off, switched fast it fools the eyes into thinking the LEDs are dimmed.
That's why a simple current dimmer doesn't work and the more expensive Designed for the purpose LED dimmers do.

This is the same effect as the old Cathode Ray Tube TVs, which were a flying dot of brightness across to the screen averaged by the eyes into a picture.
A dogs eye react quicker to light, they couldn't see a CRT tube picture, but they can see an LED screen / plasma screen because the dots that make up the screen are on for longer.
 
Those are for constant voltage or mains LEDs. The OPs LEDs have a built in transformer, or driver as LED tech likes to call them. You’re dimming the driver, not the bulb. That, on the spec I see now it says ‘Dimmer. Yes’ whether that means it already has a dimmer of some kind built in. It it’s mains level input, that is how it will be. If it requires you to buy a compatible driver, then you’ll also need to dim it.
 
The three touch type switches I ordered arrived today.
Connected the switch between the light and a 12 V battery.
One touch turned the light on. A second touch turned it off. Touch again to turn on, then touch and hold and the light gradually dimmed to practically off. Did not see any signs of flickering at any light intensity.
Hopefully thats it sorted.

Thanks for all the replies, I have learned a little bit more about LED lighting.

Cheers
Nigel
 
In general LEDs are either on or off. The dimming effect is caused by varying the ratio between on or off, switched fast it fools the eyes into thinking the LEDs are dimmed.
I would disagree with this statement. Assuming we are talking about the LED diode itself (not a fitting with driver) The current through the LED does dictate the brightness from dim to destruction bright. Try it if you have an LED diode as from a Christmas tree set and a variable resistor around 2000 ohms max on a 12v supply. Yes mark space ratio can be used to vary average current so brightness. (being more eficient)
Just another thought. LEDs do have a peculiar brightness versus voltage characteristic. Where around 3v is the voltage drop, any less voltage no current but any more voltage and you quickly get to destructive current. Hence current limiting is essential.
ol'will
 
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