superheat6k
Well-known member
I think you are going to struggle to find something without turbos.
I recently had to replace both cutlass bearings on my Port shaft recently and as a precaution replaced the PSS seal at the same time, as these I understand have a life expectancy of around 7 years, and should one leak after this time then Insurers could have an excuse not to pay a claim due to failure to properly maintain the boat, although I have no specific knowledge of incidents to state this as fact. My PSS was likely around 12 years old.
Considered using a so called excellent Tides seal, but I will never know - as they could not be bothered to respond to my request for pricing I didn't bother to buy one, and won't bother buying one this Winter either when I tackle the stbd shaft. Aquafax came up trumps within minutes of my enquiry.
Pricing - PSS Seal for 1 7/8" shaft, which IMHO are excellent, £314; 1 1/2 cutlass bearings (one is a full bearing sawn in half with the end face turned true and will be used for the stbd upper later this year) £105; incidental parts approx £50. ~ £470 all up.
BUT on my Turbo 36 changing the seal and cutlass bearings is the Devil's work. I reckon such a job done professionally wouldn't have seen much change from at least £2,000 per shaft.
My Port outer cutlass had failed and had swollen so that it gripped the shaft so tightly I could barely turn the shaft by hand. Once removed the perished rubber simply peeled away from both cutlasses, which I reckon means the stbd are not too far behind in terms of degradation.
I think you are going to struggle to find something without turbos.
Ok Murv, FWIW I will lob my tuppenceworth in the mix. Shafts are less fuel efficient, but as you said it is shafts or nothing. However, they are a fraction of the maintenance cost that outdrives demand. I have had two boats with shafts, sequentially over a period of 34 years. the seals to keep the wet stuff out are pretty basic, whatever type you have. The ones stuffed with the ropey stuff and grease are simple, and so are my current ones with two regular oil seals with a split between which is bronze bushes and grease surrounded by a water jacket, this small assembly 'floats' on a flexible rubber tube which obviously sits the water side of the bearing carrier. They are generally reliable. Cutlass bearings should last for many years, I have replaced one pair (twin engines, so both replaced once) on my current boat in 28 years, approx 2000 hours and the boat sits in soft mud twice a day except on serious neaps. Shafts need to be removed to replace Cutlass bearings but their removal and replacement is tedious rather than technically difficult, although getting couplings off can sometimes be challenging. Like all jobs on boats, they can be awkward due to accessability and vary from dead easy to to very frustrating dependant on your boat. So go ahead , buy your boat, get to know it, and enjoy it. Best of luck.
Not much more that I can add here. We have had both outdrives and shafts and there is no question that shafts are simple and require little maintenance. Assuming all is good with cutlass bearings and stern gland packing you could go for years with no maintenance and even when it is required it is relatively straightforward.
Outdrives? Not so much but then you already know that
the choice at the moment is shaft drive, or no boat at all! I'm certainly not considering any other drive options.
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Non turbo boats with ford 120hp shafts off the top of my head.
Broom 35 European
Birchwood 33
Freeman 33 sedan/sport
Princess 37
Senior sheer line 32
Rlm Riviera 33
Princess 33 twin 80hp
There is probably many more!
My boat has two 120hp shaft drive Fords, they are very agricultural! I suspect more modern turbos would be a better option in a lot of ways.
]IMHO Murv,you have been extremely unlucky with all your issues,one after another.most people run yr after yr without any of the problems you have encountered,shafts or drives.
]
Without wishing to be contentious, etc...
Old outdrives are constant source of trouble and the older they get the worse they are.
Shafts are a simple concept and are far more reliable in both the long and short term.
Outdrives by their very nature have to be extremely complicated pieces of kit.
You only have to count the sheer numbers of bits to alter the direction of drive (thrice) and the number of methods needed to keep water out and oil in.
Bits of rubber to keep water out of the drive via transom.
Bits of rubber to keep water out of the gearshift.
Bits of rubber to keep water out of the gearbox.
bits of rubber to get the exhaust out.
Not forgetting more rubber to keep water out of the steering fork.
Despite the vastly greater number of shaft driven boats you very rarely ever see any posts regards gearbox failure, the maintaince on which usually boils down to checking the oil levels every so often.
Even a worn cutless bearing can usually wait until the next time you do your antifoul.