Main boom roller reefing

K

Katouf

Well-Known Member
Joined
15 Oct 2004
Messages
168
Location
Essex man, Thames @ Leigh
Visit site
The handle on the standard mainsail roller reefing, as fitted to Westerly Centaurs in the 1970s, has become very stiff. I think it's on a Proctor mast but shouldn't make any difference.
Before I start to unscrew (self tapping?) screws and drive out the spring pins holding the fitment to the mast fore and aft, is there a correct way to get at the gears for maintenance?
Please don't tell me I'm old fashioned and I ought to fit slab reefing or refer me to the WOA site. There's nobody awake there at the moment and slab reefing will need major mods to the main.
Would like to get it sorted this weekend if possible.
Any ideas?
 
The handle if the standard version on front of mast with "axle" through to boom is pretty simple affair inside and should not need dismantling. A careful use of WD40 to ease the movement and break any salts etc. that have accumulated in the bearings through the mast. Only enough to get into the workings ... Once you get it freed and working. Best is then what we call "Duck Oil" ... it's thinner and less dirt attracting / holding that 3in1 ... you can get it in sprays as well. So keep giving a squirt now and again and you shoul;d find that it will ease and work without surgery required.

Mine was literally seized solid and careful application as above had it working nicely after just a days attack.

I don't know what you have with the roller boom, but mine is combined with reefing points through the sail. Simple short cords along the sail at two levels ... I can then roll sail (once slugs are released from luff groove) to level of reef points ... then tie of reef points round boom to get shape back to sail and remove the boom droop ... simple, effective and above all else cheap to mod sail for.
 
Check that it really is the through-mast bit that is siezed up - its only an anodised alloy shaft running in nylon bearings. It might be the pins through the gooseneck part that have got stiff - or even the mainsheet tang at the other end of the boom. When I took mine apart, I found that the fastenings holding the bearings to the mast were not self tappers - they were bolts - and some of the inside-the-mast nuts had worked loose and dropped off! You will need some sticky stuff to hold the nuts on the inside of the mast when you come to reassemble. I had to drill out the s/s roll pins that secure the gooseneck fitting to the end of the through-mast shaft. I might have some replacements if you need them.

Don't be shy about using the through mast roller reefing - it works very well and the sail can be made to set just as well as with points reefing. I use a piece of plastic drain pipe sleeved over the boom so that the leach of the sail is taken up a little faster than the luff - this means that the boom doesn't droop.

Cheers! Neil
 
Thanks to both of you for your prompt reply; Nigel with the "spray it and solved in a day" hope and Neil for stopping me from undoing those two screws which are bolts! It really is just the through the mast bit as the boom is wintering inside the cabin.
I also like the ideas for better roller reefing, including one found on WOA site for a length of sponge pipe lagging introduced into the roll of the sail at the clew end.
You learn something every day.

Alan
 
Hi allan. If you can pour hotwater into the works it may wash ouit any hardened salt deposits or just use loads of releasing oil. Hope it works.

I use a 4 ft bit of pipe lagging for a small reef then add a second 6 ft bit for a deeper reef. All trial and error for what works for you.

005-1.jpg


002-1.jpg


Good Luck.
 
To illustrate the reef points idea :

Look closely at mainsail and you can see the two sets of reef lines through the sail. The lines are set parellel to the normal boom line - so roll sail, and then tie of reef lines under boom to lift it back to normal angle. In fact you only really need to do the outer reef line. I have since added lines through the leech cringles for that reason.

anne_wing.jpg


Anne_Kanholm_.jpg


(Photos from 2007 Smallboatclub cruise Stockholm Archipelago .... fabulous cruising ground !)
 
If you allready have the cringles in the sail wouldnt it be better just to fit some blocks to the boom and rig it for slab reefing?

To my thinking the advantage of roller reefing is that you can reef to exactly the size you want rather than be constrained to 2 or 3 reefing points.
 
[ QUOTE ]
If you allready have the cringles in the sail wouldnt it be better just to fit some blocks to the boom and rig it for slab reefing?

To my thinking the advantage of roller reefing is that you can reef to exactly the size you want rather than be constrained to 2 or 3 reefing points.

[/ QUOTE ]

No thanks ... you have highlighted one aspect that makes me NOT want slab reefing ... working to set reefing levels.

I can reef to the 2 reef points and be set well .... But I can go further reef to a riding sail ... something that you cannot do with slab reffing.

I like to keep my options open ....... I'm sailing seas, not coastal hops .... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi allan. If you can pour hotwater into the works it may wash ouit any hardened salt deposits or just use loads of releasing oil. Hope it works.

I use a 4 ft bit of pipe lagging for a small reef then add a second 6 ft bit for a deeper reef. All trial and error for what works for you.

005-1.jpg


002-1.jpg


Good Luck.

[/ QUOTE ]

Very nice shape in the main ! Well done !

I 've had two boats with roller main reefing and switched both to slab.

Perhaps I gave up too early.

' One is often cured of his faults by seeing them in others '
 
A day working down the boatyard and total success /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

A few squirts of WD40 on the front bearing (the one that gets all the spray), a little movement each way and 5 mins later I could move the handle with one finger - the best it's ever been.

Next job is a trip to B&Q for some pipe lagging.

Thanks again to everyone who helped - what a wonderful forum this is.

Alan
 
Glad it worked and thanks for letting us know.While your on a roll can you organize some gentle westerlies and sun for the bank holiday weekend.. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
No thanks ... you have highlighted one aspect that makes me NOT want slab reefing ... working to set reefing levels.


[/ QUOTE ]

Fully agree with you there Nigel. I mis understood your first post thinking you only ever reefed to the levels of your reefing points.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
No thanks ... you have highlighted one aspect that makes me NOT want slab reefing ... working to set reefing levels.


[/ QUOTE ]

Fully agree with you there Nigel. I mis understood your first post thinking you only ever reefed to the levels of your reefing points.

[/ QUOTE ]

The two levels are set at the common % of sail for a first and second reef - so usually yes I would work to them. But the option is there to go to any level of reef I wish - even to a miniscule amount of sail as a rider in heavy weather. The use of the reefing points as you roll further is still an advantage as it brings boom up to proper angle no matter at what point to roll to.

I appreciate other guys pipe lagging - saves the work of fitting reef lines through the sail, but I don't have to stow pipe lagging or remember to get it out for reefing. I roll ... and tie off - neat, seamanlike. (No disrespect to pipe lagging method - it's similar to throwing a towel into the leech of the sail while rolling).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top