Mahogany washboards - finish?

Neil

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I've just had some washboards made from some reclaimed mahogany that I'd had under my shed. I'm in two minds whether to use a 2-pack (first coat thinned) or to oil it. I understand oil (and I like linseed!) will not be as long lasting, but it's easier to recoat after a rubdown with wire wool. Two pack is longer lasting, but for maintenance...?
 
Personally if endurance of the finish is a big issue for you, I would paint them - And I have a wooden boat with acres of varnish! Oil on Mahogany is not, in my view, very successful.
 
It comes down to personal taste re. appearance and the amount of time that you are prepared to spend on maintenance. My policy is to have varnished washboards and tiller on the grounds that these items are readily removable from the boat for revarnishing at home under good indoor conditions and are enough to smarten up the boat with other ext. woodwork [rubbing strake, handrails, cockpit floor grating] left to go grey.
 
Epoxy coat them, and then varnish. Varnish lasts considerably longer with such a stable base. Looks nice as well.
How do you find re-varnishing with an epoxy base? Using just a number of coats of ordinary varnish, it's easy to remove time-expired varnish using a heat gun, sand down and start again. Does the same trick work with an epoxy base?
 
How do you find re-varnishing with an epoxy base? Using just a number of coats of ordinary varnish, it's easy to remove time-expired varnish using a heat gun, sand down and start again. Does the same trick work with an epoxy base?

After 6 years plus I have not found the need to get the varnish off in this manner - it was almost an annual job before that, and often done as you describe. I may have put on a fresh coat or two of varnish since epoxying them after a quick sand, but not because of any cracking. They look the same now as the day they were first coated.
 
Forgive a little thread drift if you will.

My boat is now in need of a little TLC for the interior varnish.
I guess the opriginal varnish was probably sprayed on etc. cos it has a very flat regular matt finish with no runs etc.

Can anybody advise how I reproduce this by hand ?

The boat is a British Hunter.

TIA
 
What is the consensus on Burgess Hydrosol marine wood sealer.? It was used on my last boat, and I got the remains of the tin. Easy to put on, even on wet wood...
 
mine are done in Deks Olje nos 1 and 2 as is my binnacle

The oil alone doesn't last alone but the combination leaves a nice finish that lasts. I haven't had to do anything in three years so far
 
Gosh - I have a hate of epoxy coatings having futzed with them for a few years. If you have patience and time, Epifanes. If you have neither, Skippers "six coats a day" two pack polyurethane. Epifanes will age gracefully with touching up. PolyU or epoxy will need taking back to the wood every few years. I love epoxy and used it as a coating for several years before I got pissed off with UV damage and failing overcoatings. Epoxy is a great fabrication resin and adhesive.

Never tried this Woodskin stuff, but it seems well reviewed.

Although mahogany rates high in the timber durability stakes, it is nowhere near things like teak or iroko, which will survive with no coating or a rubbed oil. I'd want it sealed with a moisture impenetrable coating - does Woodskin do this?
 
I'd want it sealed with a moisture impenetrable coating - does Woodskin do this?

Why would you want to do that? The main cause of failure of conventional varnishes is cracking and letting moisture in. Woodskin is a porous woodstain, similar to that used on countless domestic doors and window frames. The film slowly erodes and does not crack or flake. I have used similar coatings for years and my mast for example was coated over 10 years ago and has only had one refresher coat in that time. The finish is still intact, if a little dull.

Suggest you read the long term tests on bright finishes in Classic Boat and PBO. Woodstains outperform every other coating apart from Coelan for durability, ease of application, maintenance and cost. Only downside is that many of the older formulations have heavy tints, but international Woodskin only has a very light tint which does not really show on mahogany, douglas fir or teak, allowing the grain and natural colour to show through.
 
What is the consensus on Burgess Hydrosol marine wood sealer.? It was used on my last boat, and I got the remains of the tin. Easy to put on, even on wet wood...

Does not show up well in the tests (see post above), but no personal experience. Invest in a tin Of Woodskin to get the best out of your lovely new mahogany washboards!
 
Does not show up well in the tests (see post above), but no personal experience. Invest in a tin Of Woodskin to get the best out of your lovely new mahogany washboards!

The Burgess isn't a bright gloss finish, it's mat, but I think it gives a dull, but non-slip surface - it was used on the floor gratings of my last boat, a day sailer. The wood of my new washboards is so nice - once the T&G boards were run through the thicknesser, the who-knows-many-decades-old wood was transformed from an ugly duckling to a beautiful swan, so I'd like to get it nice and keep it that way. Now, to find a local source of this Woodskin.........
 
I've used boiled linseed on all my brightwork. My thinking was that the worst part of wallpapering is getting the old stuff off so I didn't like the idea of sanding down chipped and bubbled varnish. I have to re-oil mid season to keep it looking fresh but it only takes a few minutes with a rag. Cheap too.
 
The Burgess isn't a bright gloss finish, it's mat, but I think it gives a dull, but non-slip surface - it was used on the floor gratings of my last boat, a day sailer. The wood of my new washboards is so nice - once the T&G boards were run through the thicknesser, the who-knows-many-decades-old wood was transformed from an ugly duckling to a beautiful swan, so I'd like to get it nice and keep it that way. Now, to find a local source of this Woodskin.........
Chandlers stock it - mainstream International product.
 
Chandlers stock it - mainstream International product.
Yes, but of my two local chandlers, one didn't have it and the other is closed for their holidays! I have ordered some online, though, so thanks, all, for the suggestion; I really didn't want to go for a hard gloss varnish, for exactly the same reasons as post #16. I did think of linseed oil (which I like) - it's an oil that cross-links by oxidation to a 'gum/varnish' (actually sounds a bit like woodskin!), so wasn't sure of about longevity and recoating when exposed to marine elements.
 
Why would you want to do that? The main cause of failure of conventional varnishes is cracking and letting moisture in. Woodskin is a porous woodstain, similar to that used on countless domestic doors and window frames. The film slowly erodes and does not crack or flake. I have used similar coatings for years and my mast for example was coated over 10 years ago and has only had one refresher coat in that time. The finish is still intact, if a little dull.

Suggest you read the long term tests on bright finishes in Classic Boat and PBO. Woodstains outperform every other coating apart from Coelan for durability, ease of application, maintenance and cost. Only downside is that many of the older formulations have heavy tints, but international Woodskin only has a very light tint which does not really show on mahogany, douglas fir or teak, allowing the grain and natural colour to show through.
I wasn't discounting Woodskin, but surely you look at the durability tables for timber you are coating. The question is where your cutoff is. Anyone who expects, say ash, to survive with a porous coating is nuts. It is however a traditional wood for tillers spreaders etc. I agree that mahogany is on the durable side, but you are doing better than me if you can buy it today. "African mahogany" is not mahogany. Nor is khaya, sapele or utile. Their durability is different and ill documented. Real mahogany rates in the 1-2 range, whereas most of today's substitutes are middling 3's. Douglas fir lurks in the fourish range, which would worry me if it wasn't sealed. Really what I was asking was whether Woodskin is a porous coating. I now understand that it is. I'd be happy to use it with a timber and environment that doesn't demand a sealed finish. My combings are, beyond question, Honduras mahogany, and are suffering from moisture penetration, so I'm suspicious. I have read the tests in umpteen mags and the graveyard timber tests. I have more faith in the timber specialists than the yachting mags to be honest.

However, what works for you works for you. There are those who love epoxy as a coating. I can't get it to work for me - not conscientious enough about UV coverings. As far as I can see professional varnishers of mega classic yachts love two part polyurethane because a near prefect finish can be achieved quickly. It really does look good but ages disgracefully in my opinion. Maybe this isn't a problem if you can pay someone to redo it.

Each to his taste.
 
I wasn't discounting Woodskin, but surely you look at the durability tables for timber you are coating. The question is where your cutoff is. Anyone who expects, say ash, to survive with a porous coating is nuts. It is however a traditional wood for tillers spreaders etc. I agree that mahogany is on the durable side, but you are doing better than me if you can buy it today. "African mahogany" is not mahogany. Nor is khaya, sapele or utile. Their durability is different and ill documented. Real mahogany rates in the 1-2 range, whereas most of today's substitutes are middling 3's. Douglas fir lurks in the fourish range, which would worry me if it wasn't sealed. Really what I was asking was whether Woodskin is a porous coating. I now understand that it is. I'd be happy to use it with a timber and environment that doesn't demand a sealed finish. My combings are, beyond question, Honduras mahogany, and are suffering from moisture penetration, so I'm suspicious. I have read the tests in umpteen mags and the graveyard timber tests. I have more faith in the timber specialists than the yachting mags to be honest.

However, what works for you works for you. There are those who love epoxy as a coating. I can't get it to work for me - not conscientious enough about UV coverings. As far as I can see professional varnishers of mega classic yachts love two part polyurethane because a near prefect finish can be achieved quickly. It really does look good but ages disgracefully in my opinion. Maybe this isn't a problem if you can pay someone to redo it.

Each to his taste.
Well, your first paragraph is at odds with the findings referred to in my posts above. I have used porous woodstains, mostly Sikkens Nova for 10 years or more on a variety of timbers - teak, iroko, mahogany and Douglas fir on a 50 year old boat that I have owned for 35 years. It has way outperformed any other coatings - the mast was last stripped about 12 years ago and has been coated in Sikkens with just one refresher in that time. It is in perfect condition, the paint film is still firmly attached with no cracking. The only downside is that the Sikkens has a heavy tint so looks muddy. I am in the process of stripping all the wood on the boat and using Woodskin, which I understand is a very similar formulation, but little tint and single pack. Just finished the boom and it looks great, as do the mahogany toerails, rubbing strakes and teak trim.
 
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