lubricating through-hull fittings

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kds

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My cockpit drains pass through a ball-type stop cock before exiting below the hull. Can I lubricate these by running oil down through the plastic piping from the cockpit, using WD40 or what ? I can't actually reach them internally, only externally and they don't seem to dismantle.
Thanks, Ken
 
kds said:
My cockpit drains pass through a ball-type stop cock before exiting below the hull. Can I lubricate these by running oil down through the plastic piping from the cockpit, using WD40 or what ? I can't actually reach them internally, only externally and they don't seem to dismantle.
Thanks, Ken
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not a serviceable item i would not use oil (wd40) as they have plastic inserts you might use a teflon / silicone if you feel they need lubricating
 
kds said:
I can't actually reach them internally, only externally and they don't seem to dismantle.
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If you can't reach them internally, what is the point of having them? If your drain pipe is damaged you can't close the seacock?
 
If you lubricate these balls externally with grease spray once year during lay out it's just fine (this is what I do). Alternatively, close the seacock, remove hose and spray.
 
kds said:
My cockpit drains pass through a ball-type stop cock before exiting below the hull. Can I lubricate these by running oil down through the plastic piping from the cockpit, using WD40 or what ?
Click to expand...

I don't think pouring oil into the sea will be good for the environment....do you?:(

Oil floats on water so it wouldn't get to the seacock anyway

Why not do the job properly? Dry her out and grease from the outside and inside with an old paint brush and pot of waterproof grease.
 
kds said:
My cockpit drains pass through a ball-type stop cock before exiting below the hull. Can I lubricate these by running oil down through the plastic piping from the cockpit, using WD40 or what ? I can't actually reach them internally, only externally and they don't seem to dismantle.
Thanks, Ken
Click to expand...

Many of the old, bronze seacocks had a grease nipple on the axis, so you just pimped in grease. Unfortunately many people (including boatbuilders) fitted what are really domestic brass stopcocks, which have no means of external lubrication.
Making sure the ball moves freely, just means you need to turn your seacocks on and off regularly.

I take mine out every 4-5 years, when the boat is out of the water, and lubricate the plated ball with PTFE.

As already commented I wouldn't run WD40 down the pipes (though there is unlikely to be any plastic in the stopcock) because it's a very ineffective long-term lubricant.
 
snooks said:
Why not do the job properly? Dry her out and grease from the outside and inside with an old paint brush and pot of waterproof grease.
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Why do you want to grease them? As already noted they have a plastic probably an acetal insert that acts as the bearing. If they are stiff it is either because of salt or calcium build up in the bore or a seized spindle.
 
The OP feels the need to lubricate their ball valves, my greasing method has to be better than pouring oil down the cockpit drain and hoping it lubricates the right place before breaking up into the sea poisoning marine life

The OP hasn't mentioned anything about a plastic insert. Or the ball valves being plastic.

When new, most metal ball valves are sold with a fine layer of grease on the ball, replacing that grease can't do any harm....can it? :)
 
I lubricate my seacocks when ashore using waterproof grease applied with a long artists painbrush. Makes a huge difference to the way they operate. I am guessing your seacocks are not connected directly to the skin fittings and cannot be reached in this way?
 
snooks said:
The OP feels the need to lubricate their ball valves, my greasing method has to be better than pouring oil down the cockpit drain and hoping it lubricates the right place before breaking up into the sea poisoning marine life

The OP hasn't mentioned anything about a plastic insert. Or the ball valves being plastic.

When new, most metal ball valves are sold with a fine layer of grease on the ball, replacing that grease can't do any harm....can it? :)
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Well, I have a brand new DZR ball valve on my desk that I bought on Saturday for the water inlet for my new engine. Have just wiped my finger across the the ball and not a sign of grease - just a precision machined metal ball running in a white "plastic" bearing.

Exactly the same as the one I have just taken out (wrong size for new engine) which works perfectly after 17 years - and has never been greased.

Stiffness, most commonly on toilet valaves is caused by build up of salts and marine growth, particularly if not operated frequently. Can be cleaned by using WD 40 (preferably not afloat) as a solvent. White vinegar or kettle cleaner followed by hot water can also be effective.

This is of course different from a Blakes type cone valve which is metal to metal and needs waterproof grease (via grease nipple on recent models).
 
kieronriley said:
once you have it moving use fairy liquid to lubricate two or three times a year(other brands will do the same thing)
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Thats what I have done for many years. Turn the thro hull off - fill the tube with a 50/50 solution of fairy liquid and water, leave it for a few days if pos, then work the valve open and shut rapidly as the tube empties - job done.

With the boat out of the water silicon grease is good
 
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