Lubricating seacocks

[oldbilbo]

Near the top of my Chrissy 'to do' list is stripping down and lube'ing the seacocks. I have several candidate potions, from goose-grease to white lithium stuff. Then there's the gunk I used on trailer bearings.....

But what's right? Perhaps more important, what's the wrong stuff...?

 

[nigelmercier]

Near the top of my Chrissy 'to do' list is stripping down and lube'ing the seacocks.

This thread may help? Are they Blakes? Can other types be stripped?

 

[Tranona]

If they are Blakes, use the proper stuff. Little tub lasts a lifetime. Ball valves do not need lubrication, although you need to check they are not bunged up on the downstream side with deposits.

 

[nigelmercier]

Ball valves do not need lubrication, although you need to check they are not bunged up on the downstream side with deposits.

So what do you do when they are so stiff that the handle bends?

 

[dewent]

I was a bit nervous about stripping my non-blakes seacocks so I just used spray on motorcycle chain grease.

The method used: whilst the boat was out being anti-fouled was SWMBO on-board moving the leaver me outside spraying grease into the hole.

Seemed to do the job OK.

Whats the verdict from the group?

 

[KevinT1]

Lubricating non Blakes seacocks

Likewise - the advice I got from Marine Engineers regarding my standard Ball Valve Seacocks was to use PTFE Spray - so when we were in the Yard I was outside spraying WD40 Anti Friction PTFE Dry Lube and my wife was inside moving the handle.

But the OP stated that he was planning on "taking apart and lubricating" - which to my knowledge you can only do with Blakes - not Ball valves, so the earlier posts are more relevant.

 

[Tranona]

So what do you do when they are so stiff that the handle bends?

That is often caused by build up of deposits which prevent the ball from rotating. Spraying with WD 40 may help clear the deposits, but it is not lack of lubrication that prevents the ball from moving. Regular exercising (of the lever) is the solution.

 

[dewent]

Thanks Kevin

Pleased about your reply was worried that I was just ducking what really needed doing!

 

[KevinT1]

That is often caused by build up of deposits which prevent the ball from rotating. Spraying with WD 40 may help clear the deposits, but it is not lack of lubrication that prevents the ball from moving. Regular exercising (of the lever) is the solution.

Fully agree - one old plumber recommended that you close and open the mains water gate valve in your house every 6 months - so that when you need it you can shut it off.

Same applies to our seacocks - although the PTFE spray did help it move once the PTFE got all around the ball. My main concern is that I didn't use something that was going to react with thhe nylon seating.

 

[prv]

But the OP stated that he was planning on "taking apart and lubricating" - which to my knowledge you can only do with Blakes - not Ball valves, so the earlier posts are more relevant.

Larger ball valves often can be dismantled, though I've never done it. I just exercise them and all seem happy so far.

Pete

 

[nigelmercier]

That is often caused by build up of deposits which prevent the ball from rotating.

So spraying first with Citric Acid may be a good idea?

 

[rogerthebodger]

Two main kind of ball valves

http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00CKDQdTpLstkz/Stainless-Steel-Ball-Valve.jpg

http://www.jonloovalve.com/images/201211/goods_img/270_P_1352550655249.jpg

Both have PTFE seals so do not need lubrication. The first one cannot be dismantled but the second one can without even altering the pipework.

I have this type ranging from 1/4 inch BSP up to 2 inch BSP.

As said best to operate than monthly as can jam due to fouling.

All my stainless are 316 so should be OK below the waterline.