Loss of revs on vp 2003

was still thinking today what the issue could be....
checked the retour fuel line if there was any clog in the line but it wasnt

also one of you mentioned the exhaust elbow....checked today and it isnt blocked although i could see some junk inside. Decided to take elbow at home to clean. Does anybody have expirience how to clean it? will acetic acid do the job?

many thanks so far for all ideas
 
VicS said:
this one? http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=311532

All you have to do is copy the URL and paste it into a post.


But you can use the "insert link" icon
createlink.gif
then you can do a posh link LIKE THIS

If you dont have an insert link icon you need to go to your User CP, go to "Edit Options" on the left hand bar then scroll almost to the end and change the editor interface to the "Standard editor". Hit "Save the changes" and you will have loads of new formatting tools and other bells and whistles to play with.
Click to expand...
VicS - Thanks for the info. Simples, innit. No-one would guess I did 40+ years in the IT industry!
 
Erwin Swart said:
was still thinking today what the issue could be....
checked the retour fuel line if there was any clog in the line but it wasnt

also one of you mentioned the exhaust elbow....checked today and it isnt blocked although i could see some junk inside. Decided to take elbow at home to clean. Does anybody have expirience how to clean it? will acetic acid do the job?

many thanks so far for all ideas
Click to expand...

I did mine this spring, from memory used Brick and Patio Cleaner from B&Q. I will check the exact product tomorrow and let you know. I put it in a plastic tub and submerged the elbow in it. Lots of fizzing and bubbles, did it several times, but I was clearing the waterways, so had a poke about in them between placing in solution. I didn't leave it in too long (don't remember exactly) but it was minutes each time, not hours. Replaced with a new gasket from www.keypart.com. No problem with it really, probably a good idea to wear protective clothing, gloves, eye protection etc etc, it is a mild acid IIRC.

There was a thread on just this at the time that gave me the courage to have a go, I did post on it at the time.
 
I used 4trade Brick and Patio Cleaner, which I got in Travis Perkins builders merchants. Looks like it is 5-10% hydrochloric acid-take care!

There are similar products in B&Q.
 
>4) air leak but have no clue where coming from

I've mentioned this before but put talcum power around the joints, the bleed screw, where the screw on is for the filter and if you have a screw on bowl on that joint too. It will show the leak that is letting air in. Leave it for a couple of hours. A member of the forum has used that and found the leak.

If it also used to check a weld. Paint diesel on one side and put talcum powder on the other side. Diesel will go through a hole you can't see.
 
I want to thank you for all mentioned ideas.

To continue with story the story wasnt solved and this week an VP engineer looked at engine. The engine was starting immediately for first time after winterising so that was promosing.
But still have the problems like before and engineer left without any solution after several hours. For sure no air leak, injectors are correct, clean fuel plus filter, no blocked exhaust (exhaust was cleaned this winter), engine is working over all cylinders, return fuel line unblocked, compression is ok. So it was a frustating visit from the engineer since the engine is working well with the exclusions of drop in revs.
Engineer is now doubting at the fuel regulator which is failing now and then. He wants to let the engine running and for more hours and wants to wait when engine is shutting down by itself (not due to fuel starvation) and see what went wrong.

Does somebody have experience and symptoms with the fuel regulator on a VP2003?

Other ideas what could be the cause of loss of revs and shut down of engine?

grtz,
Erwin
 
Erwin Swart said:
Engineer is now doubting at the fuel regulator which is failing now and then. He wants to let the engine running and for more hours and wants to wait when engine is shutting down by itself (not due to fuel starvation) and see what went wrong.
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The fuel regulator system is fairly simple, and is part of the governor mechanism which, as I said in post #11, is the likely cause of your problems. The governor works by moving a control rod forwards and backwards, which moves a control arm on each of the 3 fuel pumps, thus varying the amount of fuel injected. See this diagram http://www.volvopentashop.com/Volsp...eDieselEngines/7726000/7726000_23/7726000_155 - the control rod is part #42 (the one in the diagram is for a 2002 engine, so it only has 2 notches for 2 fuel pumps; the one for your engine has 3 notches). It's essentially simple, but as suggested earlier, it's not a DIY operation to work on it.
 
I had the same problem with mine, I found two issues; the return to tank was constricted and I had a hairline crack in an injector fuel line. Both adressed and now the engine is fine. I agree with previous comments that they are susceptible to tiny air leaks.

Jon
 
thanks again...
results untill now.....engine is running ok without showing the issues after 10hrs this year.
but...engineer did some tests like checking injectors (which were ok) and compression test.

compression test was wrong, first cylinder was ok, second was less (at the border of acceptable range) and the 3rd cylinder was bad. What i am wondering now is the result since i did not notice any starting problems. So what is the best choice, do the overhaul right now or can I use the engine and do it over winter 2013-2014. Is it harmfull to use the engine in this status?

thanks for your thoughts
 
Erwin Swart said:
Does anybody have an idea where to think of?
Was just driving home and thinking of the heat exchanger.....maybe a stupid idea but is it possible when the engine becomes too hot the engine is shutting down by itself?

Hope somebody have good ideas
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We had a similar problem on a Bukh in our marina. It was the strainer in the lift pump. If your lift pump for the fuel on the engine has a screw in the top of the cover then there may be a small plastic strainer in it. This is removed by taking out the screw centre top and lifting of the cover. The strainer is cream or white plastic and about 10MM dia. It can be cleared with a brish or compressed air.
 
Erwin Swart said:
So what is the best choice, do the overhaul right now or can I use the engine and do it over winter 2013-2014. Is it harmfull to use the engine in this status?
Click to expand...

It won't particularly harm the engine to keep using it. However, I think a lot depends on whether you plan to do the overhaul yourself or pay someone to do it. If you're planning to pay someone, I reckon you'd be better putting the money towards a new engine.
 
It will depend on the root cause of the low compression. If its cylinder wear, rings etc, it may be pricey. If the problem is in the head it is likely to be valves (and likely to be exhaust valves at that) then it is worth doing. Do the blow by test to see if the bottom end is OK.
 
Erwin,

If you have a moment, could you say if you came to any final conclusions about the cause of the problem.
I am hoping you have had a couple of good seasons since?
Regards
Bob
 
Of course....

As mentioned the compression wasnt right.
Decided to to take head of....the pistons were dirty and this caused the symptoms
The fact i was able to start without issues was because the first cylinder was the best.

The VP engineer had never seen dirty pistons caused these problems.

My engine has run a few hundred hours afterwards without any issues (although its still smokey like all 2003 types).

Let me know if there are more questions

Grtz
 
Erwin Swart said:
Of course....
As mentioned the compression wasnt right.
Decided to to take head of....the pistons were dirty and this caused the symptoms
The fact i was able to start without issues was because the first cylinder was the best.
The VP engineer had never seen dirty pistons caused these problems.
My engine has run a few hundred hours afterwards without any issues (although its still smokey like all 2003 types).
Grtz
Click to expand...

Thanks for replying - its always useful to know what happened
Good sailing
Bob
 
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