Loss of revs on vp 2003

Erwin Swart

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Had yesterday some issues with my vp2003.
On certain moment the engine stalled when running in neutral. Starting becomes more difficult and finally the revs were dropping up and down.

In beginning of the year all filters were replaced and fuel tank cleaned. Only fuel from highway (white diesel). Since then run engine for 100 hours without troubles.

Replaced fuel filter which was clean, no water in fuel.

I am thinking of air issues, can somebody tell me if air could cause drop in revs?

Other suggestions are welcome
 
Similar problem on mine caused by dirt in the fuel tank. I know you're had it cleaned, but could there be flakes of paint or rust that get across the intake?

PS, mine was (eventually!) fixed with a new tank - the old one was paper thin, and we eventually realized it was leaking fuel.
 
To continue with story, i thought i had solved the issue but unfortunately its seems that i have a serious problem
So far i disconnect the fuel line and fuel tank by connecting a separate fuel tank to the fuel lifting pump. Cleaned the filter in the fuel lifting pump and repkaced the fuel filter. Starting the engine wasnt an problem and engine runs fine for 15-30 minutes. Then the same problems rises again. Running the engine in neutral the revs are going up and down or engine dies. Running the engine under higher revs the engine is picking up and continues running well.
If engine dies i am able to start the engine with the cold start procedure without issues. But then the symptoms are playing part more frequently.

For now i only have a few options what could be wrong
1) injectors which i dont believesince the engine is running fine for a while over all cilinders
2) fuel pump where is dont know if the symptoms described as above belong to a not working fuel pump
3) fuel delivery pressure pump which isnt working wel
4) air leak but have no clue where coming from

Does anybody have an idea where to think of?
Was just driving home and thinking of the heat exchanger.....maybe a stupid idea but is it possible when the engine becomes too hot the engine is shutting down by itself?

Hope somebody have good ideas
 
Are you getting any black smoke at exhaust? If so you re unable to burn fuel
If not then fuel starvation likely
Try running with fuel hose directly into temp tank ie any suitable container
if it runs then try loosening fuel pipe to each injector in turn drop off should be same foe each
Check sump oil for diesel contamination

This should give you some indications of where the problem lies

The exhaust elbow is prone to choking and strangling power output
 
Scottie,

No black smoke
Exhaust Elbow isnt blocked
No diesel contamination in sump
For loosening the fuel line at the injectors....you mean losening 1 of the 3 and see what happens? You cant losening more than 1 fuel lines of the injectors right?
 
Running the engine in neutral the revs are going up and down or engine dies. Running the engine under higher revs the engine is picking up and continues running well.
If engine dies i am able to start the engine with the cold start procedure without issues.

If the engine runs OK at higher revs, there's obviously nothing wrong with the fuel lift pump, the individual fuel pumps, or the injectors. The 2003 is a very simple engine. About the only thing left to cause your symptons is the governor mechanism, and I'd urge you not to play with this yourself. Time to get a proper VP engineer along.
 
I had a similar problem with my VP2003 as have many others. I suspect it's the fuel pump.

I suggest you search for this old thread - "Volvo Penta 2002 slowing down and stalling" as it has quite a few ideas in it. (I'd post a link to it but I'm afraid I don't know how!)
 
You loosen the pipe nut very slightly and cover the connection with a rag to collect leakage then retighten the engine should slow down by the same amount for each cylinder if it is different it will indicate a poor working cylinder

It does sound more like a Fuel lift pump from hat has been said .
 
VP 200x series are great engines with two annoyances in my experience.
- Noisy, because of the direct injection but also very fuel efficient because of this
- Very sensitive for air leaks as there are a lot of seal rings in the fuel path.

The latter has driven me almost nuts on my previous boat.

Bottom line: Any fuel-pipe or hose you loosen should be reconnected with NEW aluminum seal-rings as recommended by Volvo.
I suspect that a number of Banjo-connections were loosened when the fuel-tank was cleaned. There are aluminum seal rings used to seal these banjos. Replace with new.
Also, are the short pieces of hose between the injector pumps still the original?
Replace the lot and use NEW aluminum seal rings and tighten them the first time right. No re-using!
It's only when I capitulated to these rules I was able achieve a perfectly starting and running engine.
Good luck.
 
Had yesterday some issues with my vp2003.
On certain moment the engine stalled when running in neutral. Starting becomes more difficult and finally the revs were dropping up and down.

In beginning of the year all filters were replaced and fuel tank cleaned. Only fuel from highway (white diesel). Since then run engine for 100 hours without troubles.

Replaced fuel filter which was clean, no water in fuel.

I am thinking of air issues, can somebody tell me if air could cause drop in revs?

Other suggestions are welcome



Have a look at your lift pump. If it is the type with a cheeshead screw in the centre of the domed top then it might have a wee plastic filter inside it.

Undo the screw and lift of the top . The filter is below and cream/white plastic about 10 mm in dia.

You can check if the pump is working by loosening one of the injector spill connections and then pumping the lift pump. You might need to rotate the engine by hand to get the pump cam in a better position. FRuel should pour from the loosend connection.
 
I had a similar problem with my VP2003 as have many others. I suspect it's the fuel pump.

I suggest you search for this old thread - "Volvo Penta 2002 slowing down and stalling" as it has quite a few ideas in it. (I'd post a link to it but I'm afraid I don't know how!)

this one? http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=311532

All you have to do is copy the URL and paste it into a post.


But you can use the "insert link" icon
createlink.gif
then you can do a posh link LIKE THIS

If you dont have an insert link icon you need to go to your User CP, go to "Edit Options" on the left hand bar then scroll almost to the end and change the editor interface to the "Standard editor". Hit "Save the changes" and you will have loads of new formatting tools and other bells and whistles to play with.
 
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thanks all for all suggestions
the remarks that the lifting pump isnt working properly isnt true since i can bleed the system without problems. I also replaced the lifting pump in beginning of the year.
Other suggestion was to replace all the cupper seals, i am aware of that and always does since i have the same experience.

still have the idea that one of my earlier described beds are the problem.

since i have done everything i could i think its time for a vp profesional
 
Have a look at your lift pump. If it is the type with a cheeshead screw in the centre of the domed top then it might have a wee plastic filter inside it.

Undo the screw and lift of the top . The filter is below and cream/white plastic about 10 mm in dia.

I have wanted to do this on my 2003 (it does have the screw on top) for some time. However when I remove the screw, the domed lid seems very firmly attached to the body of the pump. I have made feeble attempts to remove it, usually by prising it off, but it seems to be quite thin and I worry about distorting/bending it and needing to replace the whole pump-which I have thought about. Any tips or hints about how to remove the top and get at the filter inside? It may just be the paint that holds it on?

TIA
 
I have wanted to do this on my 2003 (it does have the screw on top) for some time. However when I remove the screw, the domed lid seems very firmly attached to the body of the pump. I have made feeble attempts to remove it, usually by prising it off, but it seems to be quite thin and I worry about distorting/bending it and needing to replace the whole pump-which I have thought about. Any tips or hints about how to remove the top and get at the filter inside? It may just be the paint that holds it on?

TIA

It will be the sticky joint and paint holding it. The ones I have been involved with on Bukh and VP engines are not usually a problem?

The filter can be blown clean and put back.
 
I had the same fault on one of my 2002's, it turned out to be two faults, both at the lucas filter, it took me 12 months to find. Even though I had changed the filter canister I had not looked at the filter head which had a lot of crud embedded in it, there was also a tiny air leak in the seal between filter and bowl.
John
 
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